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2003 CBR 600 RR
33k miles on the clock. M4 carbon pipe (maybe full system), and some kind of fuel mapping thing? Cobra maybe, doesn't look like a power commander unless its a super early one. Its been down a few times, lowsides only. Mostly rash on the plastics and the cases look like they are in good shape.
So here's where I'm looking for some help. Needs new fork seals bad. Right fork is leaking out the top. Does anyone have some good exerpience/know how with these seals? Expensive or fairly easy? just looking to button them up, not changing internals etc... yet Also needs a new battery which is an easy fix.
My biggest problem right now is that i can get it to crank over with a jump pack, but it doesn't seem to want to fire. I bought this from a friend and I know it was running when he put it away 2 years ago. It hasn't even been started in two years. FI light is on so I'm not sure what that means. Its got fresh gas in it so thats shouldn't be the issued. Idea's on where to start? He also said it may or may not need a cam chain tensioner. I've heard thats common on these bikes and is fairly easy to replace. haven't heard the motor run yet so I'm not sure. I do know the chain is loud just rolling it around though so that could be what he was hearing.
Once I get these problems sorted I'm in sort of a dilemma, should I:
A: Fix it up for the street and sell it because I already ride the 848 on the street.
B: Fix it up and track it out. Keep it as a track mule/newer race bike
Thoughts?
B.
Cliff's Cycles KTM
NETRA enduro B-vet
Close your eyes, look deep in your soul, step outside yourself and let your mind go.
B......
LRRS EX 66
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factoryeffex
B.
It's likely it doesn't wanna fire because there isn't enough juice in the battery. Sure, the battery pack can push the starter however I'm guessing there isn't enough in reserve to power the ECU as well as other electrics associated with making it run.
I don't recall which style forks that bike has but if the forks are conventional, the seal change is relatively easy with the right tools.
FI light is on because the engine isn't running. Get it to fire then see what lights up.
The CCT is in people's heads for the most part. They aren't as weak as you might think and yes, they all make noise. Every Honda I've ridden or owned seems to have a fair amount of cam chain noise.
I pretty much had it in my head to track it out, so I appreciate the final push guys. Definitely won't be at the track this year with it unless I can get the forks done sooner, but next year I'm hoping to have it all out.
Bergs, I tried jumping it with my truck (truck was off and not running). Turned over fine, but wouldn't fire. I've gone through all the idiot stuff, kill switch, fuel, kickstand, neutral etc, but it won't kick over. I guess next place to start is making sure I have spark, check plugs, and maybe pull/clean the injectors? After sitting or two years, and he put it away running, i'm guessing that it could be all gummed up, etc... Fuel pump sounds like it's priming like it should when the key turns on so I'm guess thats fine, and there's not shutoff valve that I know of.
I'll keep working on it, but I'm a little excited to get this beast running. If I remember right, the M4 pipe on it screams...
oh, almost forgot, forks are conventional. I talked with roadside today and they told me $52 a fork, if I bring them in off the bike and about $7 a piece in oil. Just to avoid the hassle, I might do that so I don't have to worry about it unless someone tells me this is a super simple job. I've never tackled forks before.
hold the throttle to the stop while you try to crank it over.
Most definitely B.
If not, I may be looking for a track bike next Spring.
:vulture:
"I'd rather ride a slow bike fast than a fast bike slow"
Bikes: Ducati: 748 (Track) Honda: RC31 (Race/street)/ CRF 110 Mini Moto/ Hawk Endurance Racer Kawasaki: ZXR1200R
BOMO Instructor
EX# X
No manual fuel shut off on FI systems.
Is the entire wire loom intact? No meeces or other cute, furry, rabies-ridden rodents got in there? If not, I agree with Awesome's suggestion to hold the thing WOT and crank it. If that still doesn't do it, checking fuel delivery components would be the next step. Make sure the hi-idle wax unit is working properly and moving freely (the part that looks like it would act as the choke; located on the throttle bodies).
IMO, it's not likely that all 4 injectors would be so gummed up that they wouldn't at least get the motor to pop however, be very careful when cleaning the Honda stuff with carb cleaner type products as some fueling systems have a coating on the parts and it's specified by Honda to not use certain chemicals to clean. I highly suggest doing some research for your particular machine. Both my F4i and the 929 I had use this coating in the throttle bodies. I wish I could remember what the material is. Also, electrical stuff doesn't break from sitting for a couple years.
I sent my injectors out to a place in FL, Pro Flow Technologies. I am not endorsed by them but I found their service to be professional, quick turn and reasonably priced. It was worth the money for me on the F4i since they give you before and after flow numbers in addition to rebuilding your injectors.
As far as fork seals, DO NOT use the life time/ long wear ones. They will scratch your stanchions. OEM ones are the best choice in this particular application. Not an opinion, this I promise.
Conventional forks aren't that bad for servicing.
Sorry, am I talking too much?
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Last edited by butcher bergs; 08-24-10 at 09:32 PM.
Bergs is a wealth of information!! You go Bergsie!
"I'd rather ride a slow bike fast than a fast bike slow"
Bikes: Ducati: 748 (Track) Honda: RC31 (Race/street)/ CRF 110 Mini Moto/ Hawk Endurance Racer Kawasaki: ZXR1200R
BOMO Instructor
EX# X
here is a DIY for your fork seals
http://www.600rr.net/vb/showthread.p...ght=fork+seals
here is a page with a ton of FREE pdf service manuals for many different bikes that might help just about everyone here...i had an 03 600rr and now i have an 05 600rr...the pdf service manual i have is for 03-06 and i got it off of this page a while ago
http://www.jaxsb.com/forums/tech-sec...s-big-can.html
Last edited by Point37; 08-25-10 at 08:13 AM.
Just went out and tried to crank her up again. Held it WOT and nothing. Just kept turning over and no fire.
Weird thing is, I didn't smell any gas afterward, like a flooded vehicle. So I waited a bit and listened for the fuel pump again. I swore I heard it yesterday but nothing today. I'm guessing its a pump issue then.
thanks for the links point. I might attempt doing my own seals then and I'm downloading the service manual as I write this so that I can tear into the fuel issue now.
can't thank bergs enough for the insight, I appreciate it.
Typically the pump will pressurize the system but won't maintain pressure until the engine is running. Perhaps try supplying a 12vdc source to the pump as you crank the engine but only when you crank the engine as you risk driving too much fuel into the engine which could hydrolock it and there are other more serious problems associated with hydrolock that could occur. Electronics supply stores usually sell these cool little colored wires with alligator clips on either end.
I still feel the bad battery is part of your issue if it's not holding a charge or able to take a charge.
...and no worries on the insight. I sent the bill out earlier today.
Fork seals are a cinch on a conventional cartridge. I did it few times on my 600rr. You can use some pvc pipe to drive the seals in and you dont need a cartridge tool to reassemble. Its really simple.
12v direct to the fuel pump wont work. There's a diode with a 3v drop in the ignition (anti-theft, prevents hot wiring.)
edit- 12v to the ecm wont work, i guess 12v to the pump directly will
Last edited by blacklightning; 08-25-10 at 12:15 PM.
LRRS/CCS AM 636
Really tore into it last night. Found a corroded ground (green colored) on the pump side of the connector. I'm gonna test both sides today and hopefully grab a battery and some seals if I can get them cheap locally. Tore off a bunch of crap last night also, hoping to drop some weight off this beast and start getting it safety wired etc...
I've got a corbin seat that its great shape, passenger pegs, and mirrors that I'm going to sell if anyone is interested. i'm sure there's more that I'm gonna drop as well.
ok, fuel pump works when 12v is wired in. checked all the fuses that I know about. still not getting any voltage to the pump when the key is turned on.
best I can tell from other posts on 600rr.net is tha the BAS could be gummed up. I'm going to dig it out and see if I can bypass it with a jumper and fix my problem.
any other thoughts?
Is the pump priming? Maybe try toggling the kill switch a couple times? Pump *should* prime each time the switch is toggled to "run".
There isn't constant 12vdc going to the pump. Voltage is present only when the pump is running.
no, the pump isn't priming at all. Even when I hotwired the pump, it still wouldn't fire.
I tried checking all the relays and they seemed to be fine, along with all the fuses that I could find. I tried jumping the bank angle sensor again and nothing. I read somewhere on the webz that it could be the ECM/programmed fuel injection, or the ignition switch. The guy I bought it from had a dealership replace the ignition switch a while back and I read about one guys that had problems with the diode part of it.
Anyways, I'm going to keep trying crap. I'm still at, bike will turn on, will crank. There is no power going to the pump and it appears like there may be no spark (haven't checked that yet).
B.
i'll come help you troubleshoot this weekend if we can swap the tires on my 749 in the same trip.![]()
CCS/LRRS EX #226
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Not sure about the diode in question but there should be some way to bypass that by unplugging the IGN switch and "hotwire" the harness. I really wish you were closer.
Just doesn't make sense that a previously running bike sits for a while yet manages to fry electrical components during its storage....especially since the IGN switch is new-ish.
...then again, after the crap that I went thru with my F4i (all my fault) I suppose anything is possible.
Quick question, in post 6 you stated the pump was priming. Did that suddenly go away?
if you're gonna be at LAPs or BoMo in sept or Thunderbolt this coming week I'll sell you a battery. I have a brand spanking new Yuasa YTZ10S which your bike takes. used for just over half a track day when I found out it wasn't the battery that was the problem, it was a fried stator. paid $170, its yours for $150.
LRRS Am #331
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