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I know this is the wrong area for this post
but need a quick answer.
So I'm changing my front brake pads.
First time on my 600RR. the manual says
replace the caliper mounting bolts.
Really every time you torque and untorque the bolt
you replace them ?
I wanna change the pads but dont want to wait for
new bolts.
Advise please...
Since I've observed just how fun it is trying to secure a caliper once the brake bolts have fallen off in the middle of vt....from someone with the same question - change em.
Blue loc-tite + torque wrench, and I wouldnt worry about it.
I know a little about everything, and alot about nothing.
Thanks
I'll do it next time.
The bolt is less than a year old and its
the first time it was untorqued and retorqued
since coming from the factory.
I used a torque wrench and got it to spec.
yeah pre drilled would be nice...
Drilling bolts is not my favorite pastime !
I need a good vise for my press. The one
I have has trouble holding small pieces
especially at the odd angles that one needs to
drill at for wiring.
Do they make a press vise just for bolts?
how come you cant change your pads without taking the caliper off? Doesnt make much sense to me.
The reason why they advise you to change the bolts on the brake system when you remove them is because they bolts are usually torqued down closer to their limit and doing this over and over could weaken them and then the one time you REALLY need the bolt to hold it would snap. WIll it happen? I doubt it but its possible.
think it may have something to do with heat in some cases...but don't quote me on that.Originally posted by union
The reason why they advise you to change the bolts on the brake system when you remove them is because they bolts are usually torqued down closer to their limit and doing this over and over could weaken them and then the one time you REALLY need the bolt to hold it would snap.
You really don't need more then a 9.99$ drill press vise from home depot. But if you're so inclined:
http://www.pitposse.com/nutdrilljig.html
For reference, this is similar to what I've used and it's worked well.
http://cgi.ebay.com/3-Drill-Press-Gr...QQcmdZViewItem
Edit: If you do get into wiring, Milbar makes some really nice pliers (milbar/proto/etc.)
..is it the blue loctite that heals stressed threads?Originally posted by JeffL
Blue loc-tite + torque wrench, and I wouldnt worry about it.![]()
Hey strangeguy
thanks for info...
I'll look into it.
Honda is one of the only manf. to recommend replacing the bolts. It has nothing to do with repeaterd torqueing of the bolts. The torque spec is still well with in the elastic region of the material. It's because the brake bolts come from Honda with lock tight on them. You can reuse the bolts indefinitly. Too much engineering is done by the legal dept.......
it the shop manual sez replace I would
many bolts are designed as one use only, they stretch when they are torqued and loose their strength
being a victim of having a caliper come flying off and going thru the rim @ 60mph, I can tell you it is not a desireable experience
RandyO
IBA#9560
A man with a gun is a citizen
A man without a gun is a subject LETS GO BRANDON
The only blots on a motorcycle that are torqued enough to not reuse them are some connecting rod bolts. They are torqued and stretched beyond the elastic region of the material and into what is called the plastic region of the material. These bolts can not be reused because they are deformed when torqued. Brake caliper bolts are not. The ONLY reason caliper bolts fall out is because they are not tight enough. Lock tiight is not requied, but is also not a bad idea. Just a drop will keep the bolt from vibrating out if you should not get enough torque on it.Originally posted by RandyO
it the shop manual sez replace I would
many bolts are designed as one use only, they stretch when they are torqued and loose their strength
being a victim of having a caliper come flying off and going thru the rim @ 60mph, I can tell you it is not a desireable experience
Think about it. The caliper bolts are under a shear load. This is the strongest mode for a bolt. The loads are trying to cut the bolt like a bolt cutter. There is little to no compression or tension force so there is very little acting to loosen the bolt. There is some heat expansion and contraction that will cause it lose torque, but the factory spec is more than enoughto over come this. The most common caliper bolt failure I've seen is over torqueing and stripping the caliper threads. If bolts magically back out due to vibration and heat then every bolt on the motor would fall out while you ride. Al most none of the bolts on the motor require lock tight, ever the exhaust mounting flanges which see more heat and vibration than any other bolt. Why is it that when people talk about motorcycles they ignore basic engineering practices and the laws of physics????
Randy...caliper bolt on going through your rim was one persons fault and had nothing to do with the integrity of the bolt. Everything to do with the integrity loosening it and not tightening it back up.
Blue loctite. Bonus feature, that stuff tastes great. I mean, if they didn't want us to eat it why would they make it such a good flavor?
It's all water under the bridge, and we do enter the next round-robin. Am I wrong?
Anyway my bike is back together and peachy keen. See ya all out at Louden Tuesday on it... hopefully with no flying brake parts ;-)
I figured its was a legal liability thing.
Well with the new pads... its amazing how much more it compresses my front forks... I need to tweak the setttings a bit to prevent the dive.
Is excessive front end dive under braking countered by adding preload or by adding compression damping? or both?
Thanks Pete I'll look for ya.