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https://www.facebook.com/LRRSBT1R #54 EX 2007 SV650 "Work hard. Play harder. Die broke and happy!" Boston Tier 1 Racing Pirelli Tires Woodcraft-CFM Armorbodies Penguin Racing School Vortex Shorai Batteries DP Brakes Riders Discount SIDI Leatt
Look them up on the BikeBandit.com parts fische for that bike. It should have the diameter, length and pitch listed.
NM just checked on BikeBandit and the pitch isnt listed there either. perhaps take the nuts to a local hardware shop and figure out what they are there?
Last edited by GingahNinjah; 04-02-15 at 12:37 PM.
https://www.facebook.com/LRRSBT1R #54 EX 2007 SV650 "Work hard. Play harder. Die broke and happy!" Boston Tier 1 Racing Pirelli Tires Woodcraft-CFM Armorbodies Penguin Racing School Vortex Shorai Batteries DP Brakes Riders Discount SIDI Leatt
I've done it. There are no bolts, actually, there are studs that stick out of the engine. You tighten nuts down onto your exhaust flanges to hold your headers in place. What I suggest you do is drill the nuts, two on the rightmost exhaust header and two on the left. Then you wire them to eachother.
(another option is to drill through the end of the header stud and wire these, thus stopping a nut from coming loose, but that requires drilling the studs while they are on the bike, more difficult than taking the nuts off and drilling those in a vice or jig).
To drill the nuts, you drill through two adjacent flats, at an angle.... carefully. You should use a center punch to set your entry point, start by going sort of straight in and then as you begin to remove material, lay the drill bit down to the correct angle.
Like this, is the result
Another option is to buy a jig to assist you like this or this, but I never did that. But if you think you'll need to do a lot, might make sense.
Also, it appears some companies make predrilled nuts, but that seems silly to me...like this:
![]()
Zip-Tie Alley Racing
LRRS/CCS #103
PPS | Dunlop | Boston Moto | Woodcraft & Armour Bodies | 35 Motorsports | Pit Bull | K&N
I cheated. I went to Fastenal and got a bag of stainless coupling nuts. They're long enough that you can just drill straight through them on one end. Install and then wire as per CEO's instructions.
Zip-Tie Alley Racing
LRRS/CCS #103
PPS | Dunlop | Boston Moto | Woodcraft & Armour Bodies | 35 Motorsports | Pit Bull | K&N
So, same diameter as the stock nuts (although no flange so bring your own washer) but longer.
Thank you for the tip - I do get the bolt and nuts mixed up. I did buy the Moto-D drill bit but was quite unsatisfied with it as a jig. I may do the 'drill through the nut/stud' route if drilling the nut itself doesnt pan out too well.
One more thing to add to the weekend's list![]()
Going in from the side like that on an angle, in my experience, the best way is by hand.
Oh, and I forgot... use some good cutting/tapping oil, or at least regular oil, while you're drilling. Makes a big difference in cooling the bit and reducing heat and breakage.
I use tap magic, and apply it with a dropper as i'm working.
Zip-Tie Alley Racing
LRRS/CCS #103
PPS | Dunlop | Boston Moto | Woodcraft & Armour Bodies | 35 Motorsports | Pit Bull | K&N
Same thing I did on both of my R6's. There is definitely enough meat. I don't use a center punch, but it can be helpful. Just put the nut in a vice, then follow what CEO said. Easy peasy, and they look kind of like this:
In fact, mine went so easy I just did all the header nuts on both R6’s ... but like CEO said, you don't have to do them all.
John
CCS/LRRS Expert #69
LRRS Rookie of the Year 2004
"Speed has a kind of affinity for me, it's the time God and I have our little talks."
Tap magic is the shit , CEO so pumped to have you coming back this year will be damn good to see you
Buying new bolts makes it easier since they aren't hardened like the ones already used on your bike. Wd40 works good on the drill bits, too.
14 Triumph Street Triple R, 18 TM 450SMX sumo, 15 Husky 250SXF tard, 14 KTM 250SXF and Cole's Grom
LRRS/CCS #66
Thank you to my sponsors: Sidi / AMSOIL / Klutch Industries
Zip-Tie Alley Racing
LRRS/CCS #103
PPS | Dunlop | Boston Moto | Woodcraft & Armour Bodies | 35 Motorsports | Pit Bull | K&N
20 days left ladies
I've officially reset my clock, I'm at 41 days. Too many corners would have to be cut to get either the FZR or WReck in race-able trim, I'm not going to put this level of effort in to have it come out half assed. (Ok, the WReck by definition is going to be half assed, but I'm going to still hit a few key details right the first time.)
Still haven't touched the race bike lol.
-Christian LRRS/CCS HasBeen ECK Racing
2011 Pit Bike Race CHAMPION!
Being a noob to the scene and don't even have a license yet but I wished I could take the basic school yesterday. Why are people kinda, alittle freaking out? Probably everyone only BS's though.
2004 SV650
1979 GS 850GN
2005 Tt-r125
NEMRR #246 - Woodcraft / Armour Bodies / Hindle Exhaust / Central Mass Powersports
-Christian LRRS/CCS HasBeen ECK Racing
2011 Pit Bike Race CHAMPION!
Valves checked.
Tires mounted.
Bitchin towed-inn acquired.
Still waiting on parts.
Johnny B. (the other one) ®
Butler's Rest Home - "No Vacancy"
Super Motard Champ 1981, 1982, 1983, 1984, 1985
Visit the Rest Home: http://resthome.50megs.com
"Listen to your ass, it's giving you lots of information!" - Buddy Melges
19
My engine is done. Just have to put it in the bike and break it in.
14 Triumph Street Triple R, 18 TM 450SMX sumo, 15 Husky 250SXF tard, 14 KTM 250SXF and Cole's Grom
LRRS/CCS #66
Thank you to my sponsors: Sidi / AMSOIL / Klutch Industries