0
![Not allowed!](http://www.nestreetriders.com/forum/images/buttons/down_dis.png)
![Not allowed!](http://www.nestreetriders.com/forum/images/buttons/up_dis.png)
I tried (unsuccessfully) to do some drilling for the caliper bolts + axels for an 02 S650s.
I will take all the screws off the bike and bring it to anyone who has access to a drill press vise to make the safety wireholes ..
Let me know if anyone can help me out with this one or can recommend a place where I can use a drill press vise ...
Thank you,
Dan
Where are you located?
LRRS/CCS Expert #820 / RSP Racing / Woodcraft / MTAG Pirelli / Dyno Solutions / Tony's Track Days / Sport Bike Track Gear / GMD Computrack /
Boston, MA
25,000 1/8" drill bits, 2 boxes of band-aids and $1,000,000 for the swear jar...
Gerard
I actually notice it's easier to drill them on the bike. Your gong to break a bunch of bits either way. If you use a center punch before drilling, it helps so much.
14 Triumph Street Triple R, 18 TM 450SMX sumo, 15 Husky 250SXF tard, 14 KTM 250SXF and Cole's Grom
LRRS/CCS #66
Thank you to my sponsors: Sidi / AMSOIL / Klutch Industries
... and keep the bit cool by dipping it in oil often. I use a 1/16" bit, have posted this before:
McMaster-Carr # 3146A112
http://www.mcmaster.com/#3146a112/=rc7e03
I've been drilling nuts and bolts for a long time, and still break bits now and then. If drilling straight through, you have a better chance of getting it done without breaking a bit. I usually drill through adjacent flats, twice on each fastener. The most likely time for the bit to break is emerging on the other side [when drilling through adjacent flats, that is].
Last edited by whynot; 04-01-14 at 07:32 AM.
And don't believe everything you think.
Last edited by sdog30; 03-31-14 at 07:28 PM.
14 Triumph Street Triple R, 18 TM 450SMX sumo, 15 Husky 250SXF tard, 14 KTM 250SXF and Cole's Grom
LRRS/CCS #66
Thank you to my sponsors: Sidi / AMSOIL / Klutch Industries
I only break them when I get impatient and put too much force behind the drill and bend the bit just before it snaps. going through the other side never broke one on me. I think the last ones I used were dewalt. I think they were Ti.
LRRS Am #331
Graphic Tailor / Woodcraft / Armour Bodies / Suomy / Cycle Performance Autobody / Shorai / ChickenHawk Racing
Just 'cause I've done it many times, doesn't mean I like it any more than the first time. Actually, I've gotten pretty good at it ... have done all the other bolts with one bit. However, the older I get, the less time I have for these more tedious tasks. Plus, I recall the header nuts being a PIA. In fact, now that I think of it, I ended up having to take a trip to the ER to have shards of metal pulled out of my eyeball from drilling (metal bounced off my cheek and under safety glasses) ... so, yeah, if they had pre-drilled header nuts ... I'd pick them up.
![]()
John
CCS/LRRS Expert #69
LRRS Rookie of the Year 2004
"Speed has a kind of affinity for me, it's the time God and I have our little talks."
Well you know Tony its just in case all 8 nuts happen to back all the way off and all 4 springs holding the header to the flange break, and then the bolt holding the muffler loosens up enough so the exhaust system can move forward and rotate down and fall off the bike without the rider noticing something is up. Just one of those things.
... and even if every bolt fell off, aren't there other bolts preventing the header from moving?
Oh yeah... and then bodywork to "catch" the headers?
Someone "higher up" needs to really review this rule's need.
Okay, so this is what the 2013 LRRS Rule Book says:
So maybe four nuts, instead of all eight.19.17
Exhaust systems must be securely mounted. The outer
header nuts must be lock wired. All mounts and brackets
must be wired and where possible, there should be a
second means of securing the pipes. The baffles must be
secured by a lock wire. Four cylinder inline machines
need only lock wire the two outer exhaust pipes.
I don't find the exhaust mentioned in the 2014 CCS Rule Book (I also want to be prepped in case I do NJ this year).
John
CCS/LRRS Expert #69
LRRS Rookie of the Year 2004
"Speed has a kind of affinity for me, it's the time God and I have our little talks."
john CCS (NJMP) only requires: oil drain, oil filler, and oil filter wired...that's all.
no calipers, axles, brake pads, radiator cap, exhaust, etc.
that LRRS rule book says the outter header tubes are to be safety wired. so just the header tubes for cylinders 1 & 4 only.
Actually it says the outer header nuts, not the outer header tubes - so that's two nuts, if the studs are positioned horizontally. If they're vertical, Tech could argue "four" nuts.
Bill Cool --- CRA EX #47 --- 2023 NEMRR GTO Champion, 2020-21 LRRS LWSS Champion --- RSP Racing / TTD / MTAG-Pirelli / Woodcraft / Sportbike Track Gear / Seacoast Sport Cycle
Correct, just the two outer nuts... they can be wired to anything.
I'd rather people pay more attention to the exhaust can! If this comes off, then people can really get hurt.
People need to understand that the bracket that wraps around the can needs to be tight. Lots of time you can wiggle the can in the bracket so it's really not doing anything to keep the can on the bike... just holding it up.
Last edited by TTD; 04-01-14 at 08:55 AM.
yeah, with 2 strokers and single pipe open header type bikes... I can see it. But an inline 4 cylinder inside of a fairing... not so much.
Bill Cool --- CRA EX #47 --- 2023 NEMRR GTO Champion, 2020-21 LRRS LWSS Champion --- RSP Racing / TTD / MTAG-Pirelli / Woodcraft / Sportbike Track Gear / Seacoast Sport Cycle