Alternator issue? (newbie question...)

**Dragongirl** · 05-31-04, 08:48 PM

Hi... I'm wondering if someone can shoot me some ideas... I've had some electronic issues with my bike for the past year! I have a 94 CBR 900RR for about five years. It was bought with about 4000 miles on it and has over 20k now. Last year, Sat. night of Motorcycle weekend, she died on me in front of the Weirs sign - not cool! Bad spot.... anyway - ended up replacing the rectifier unit and she seemed good as new. Couple of days ago, after about an hour ride on a previous day, I went to start her and nothing... lights on - bright as ever, but only clicking. Mechanic told me (over the phone) that it might be the battery and to charge which I was doing. Bike started right up after the charge. I was out riding on Sat. in Manch-Vegas and was stuck in some Memorial day traffic when she started to fade on me. Had to keep her running at high rpms while stopped in traffic and when i got home and turned it off then on again... nothing... but the lights are fine... which leads me to believe it isn't the battery? I changed at 12v for about an hour and all seems fine - but when on another hour ride today - I could feel the hesitation. Bike starts when I turn off and on again... so the only thing I see that is causing issues is when she gets hot... sitting in traffic. Sorry for the long message... but does anyone have any ideas of what this might be? I think the alternator... would like to go to the mechanic with something that sounds like I know what I'm talking about. I love to ride, but am not a mechanic... so any input would be incredibly helpful.... thanks in advance!!!

**GadgettR1** · 05-31-04, 09:04 PM

My take on it.. (there are others probably more qualified than myself that may have a better idea) I would check the output of the alternator with a meter.. make sure it's putting out the proper voltage that Honda specs for your bike. Then if that is all good.. I'd check the battery. It might have been damaged when the rectifier kicked off. Check that also with a volt meter. Also check the fluid levels in the battery. I'm sure there is probably a member somewhere near you that would be glad to help you out if you don't have the meter or know how to use it. Stoner? You're not far from the Weirs (not sure how far she is from there).

Chip

**Honclfibr** · 05-31-04, 09:16 PM

Yeah definitely check the charging system output, seems like that may be your problem. Watch the voltage as you turn the throttle, it may rise as RPMs increase.

If you're in the Derry/Atkinson area and you don't have a meter you're welcome to stop by and use one of mine. I work for a small electrical engineering company in atkinson, we have lots of electrical test equipment, but your bike could probably be diagnosed with a multimeter which I have here in derry too.

**Degsy** · 05-31-04, 09:59 PM

The reg/rec can take out the battery and vice-versa. Replace both at once seems to be the rule for Hondas with this problem.

derek

**PinHead** · 06-01-04, 05:05 AM

I bet your batt. is a hurting unit. Like Degs said, they tend to take eachother out when they go and it is probably the cheaper route to try out for now.

**Stoneman** · 06-01-04, 06:05 AM

Simple cure is a battery change. If you're regularly charging it, it's toast. I've had this problem happen to me before (w/ Suzi's). Also happened to me on Degsy's race bike...

Go for the easy, quick fix first. If you bring your old battery to an auto parts chain store, you'll get a discount on a new one...

**Degsy** · 06-01-04, 06:16 AM

Just an FYI Jay, my battery isn't toast, it just lost charge. I have a total loss electrical system on my race bike remember? Running it all day at the trackday was taking charge off it and not replacing it with enough juice between sessions.

Derek

**Stoneman** · 06-01-04, 07:15 AM

Yes, I know. Thus my point. Your battery didn't have enough 'juice'...

I've had two bikes exhibit the same symptoms Dragon Girl is describing, and I was taking the same measures she is now. The simple cure in each instance was a freshy new battery...

Originally posted by Degsy
Just an FYI Jay, my battery isn't toast, it just lost charge. I have a total loss electrical system on my race bike remember? Running it all day at the trackday was taking charge off it and not replacing it with enough juice between sessions.

Derek

**Degsy** · 06-01-04, 07:34 AM

Originally posted by Stoneman
Yes, I know. Thus my point. Your battery didn't have enough 'juice'...

I've had two bikes exhibit the same symptoms Dragon Girl is describing, and I was taking the same measures she is now. The simple cure in each instance was a freshy new battery...

Oh, ok.

Hopefully the battery in dragongirl's bike didn't take out the new reg/rec also.

derek

**bemused** · 06-01-04, 07:44 AM

Originally posted by Stoneman
Yes, I know. Thus my point. Your battery didn't have enough 'juice'...

I've had two bikes exhibit the same symptoms Dragon Girl is describing, and I was taking the same measures she is now. The simple cure in each instance was a freshy new battery...

I also had a battery problem (w/ the Kat) a coupla years ago that sounds identical to this. changed battery... then the rectumfryer... finally ended up having to take the battery back for exchange.

NOTE: the 1st replacement battery (which I now think was toasted by the rect.) checked fine w/ a *quick check*. had to have the dealer put it on an extended load check to confirm that it wasn't charging properly.

sounds like your best bet now (as has been said), is to just throw in a new battery-- problem solved!

**Rice-rocket1** · 06-01-04, 10:03 AM

Just make sure that if you do get another battery you do the initial (cell forming) charge with a charger. Do not use the bike to charge it. Doing so will lock the battery at 80%. The voltage when charged on the bike will come up to full but the Capacity to hold the charge will then be limited to about 80%. Also the lower the charge rate the better ( less heat generated ) but it will take longer. Generally about 1 amp charge per hr.

Example - 12 AHR battery will take about 12 hrs to fully form the battery plates properly and reach full charge.

**odduc** · 06-01-04, 11:20 AM

Hey Cin,

If I remember correctly, you replaced the battery, last year, right? If that is the case you may have a more complicated problem. Based upon all of the responses to your post, you have lotsa folks willing to help...me too. If you would like me to check it out for ya, just let me know.

BTW, when you replaced the battery, did you do that yourself or did you take it to Al? Not that I think that you may have done anything wrong, but, if Al did it for ya, he would be more apt to investigate the bigger problem.

Lemme know if I can help.

**wastedincome420** · 06-01-04, 11:43 AM

Heres my 2 cents...............
After I had the R/R blow on my Honda VFR my battery was never right again........I had issue's with the battery boiling over, Not holding a good strong charge, etc.......
Finally after replacing the battery w/ a new one (The old one was less the 1 yr old) My problems were solved......
As many pointed out above "Be sure to charg the "new" battery properly with the use of a 1-1.5amp trickle charger"
HTH

**Dragongirl** · 06-01-04, 03:16 PM

Thanks everyone for all your input and helpful ideas. I think that I'll take the battery in and have it checked and maybe give her a once over just in case. The experience I went through last year on bike week - would rather not experience again. I also had someone mention that Honda's have always had an alternator weakness, but it's generally due to the voltage regulator that is sometimes integrated in the unit. When the regulator goes, the alternator can send inconsistent amounts of current to the battery, could be more power of less power, resulting in anything from stalls to overcharges on your battery. So if the battery is replaced, but continues to fry, that most likely is your problem. Of course, I don't want to find out that is my problem an hour or so away from any easily accessible help!

So again - thanks for all of your input!

**wastedincome420** · 06-01-04, 03:34 PM

Just curious......
When the bike starts to "fade", etc do you can you detect a "sulfur" (rotten egg) smell???
Have you yet checked the fluid level in the the battery (each cell)??
From the sounds of it it really only starts to act up when it hot correct??

**Dragongirl** · 06-01-04, 05:31 PM

No smell detected at all. In fact - the battery is less than a year old and it's one of those Maint. free batteries...? So even if I could check the fluid - I don't think that I could add - right? And your right - it seems to only act up when it's hot....

**wastedincome420** · 06-01-04, 05:41 PM

Originally posted by Dragongirl
No smell detected at all. In fact - the battery is less than a year old and it's one of those Maint. free batteries...? So even if I could check the fluid - I don't think that I could add - right? And your right - it seems to only act up when it's hot....

I wsant aware it was a "sealed" battery....So....You are correct theres no way to add fluid..

**Dragongirl** · 06-01-04, 07:04 PM

well this sucks!

I'll see what the mech. says! Hoping for the easy fix... but don't think that is going to happen!

**PinHead** · 06-01-04, 07:43 PM

You better get in running in time for Stonnerstock!

**kmobrien76** · 06-04-04, 01:40 AM

I just went thru a similar problem with my R6...dash fading and going blank, lights turning off, popped the clutch to get it going again to get it home ahhh...replaced the rectifier then the battery, still dieing, brought it to the local shop, South Shore Motorsports and they diagnosed it right away, it was a burnt out connector, the one going to the rectifier, I didn't see any burn marks but on the other side of it or internally it was burnt up...a little $10 part causing all that chaos...ahhhhhhhh...

**Dragongirl** · 06-04-04, 07:34 PM

if that is all that my problem turns out to be - I'll be a happy lady! Fingers crossed and I'll shoot the idea to the mechanic!!! Thanks!

**Dragongirl** · 06-10-04, 10:07 PM

Originally posted by kmobrien76
I just went thru a similar problem with my R6...dash fading and going blank, lights turning off, popped the clutch to get it going again to get it home ahhh...replaced the rectifier then the battery, still dieing, brought it to the local shop, South Shore Motorsports and they diagnosed it right away, it was a burnt out connector, the one going to the rectifier, I didn't see any burn marks but on the other side of it or internally it was burnt up...a little $10 part causing all that chaos...ahhhhhhhh...

Kevin - you were right!!! I just got the bike back - and it was a wire in the rectifier that was burnt out and causing charging issues and killing my battery!!! At least - that's what they say. The bike is running phenomenal!!!!

Again - thanks to all for your input - if I didn't have this info., they would have thought it was the battery and written me off as another blonde.

I made them do a double check and that is when they found the burnt out wire! Can't wait for the weekend!!! Woo Hoo!!!

**kmobrien76** · 06-10-04, 11:13 PM

Glad that the info helped...I am from Quincy but rode to NH today, coming back I stayed on 293 after the tolls instead of 93S by accident and ended up in Manchester...then back to 93...do you ride around there mostly or farther up north/south?

I think I'll be riding Sunday...hmmm where to go....

**Stoneman** · 06-11-04, 06:17 AM

Awesome DG!!!

Kevin, next time you're in this area, lemme know ahead of time. And BTW-293 can be an awesome little run say, 5:00 AM...

Can you say high speed sweepers?

**kmobrien76** · 06-11-04, 09:39 AM

Sounds good Stoneman!

Yeah that road would be a very good time in early AM...I figured if I headed north I'd eventually find some good roads...around here near Boston it's ridiculous...but hey we got the women :-)

Think I was on 127 (??) and that was nice and smooth...some twists...

Alternator issue? (newbie question...)

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