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Tonight I replaced my front brake lines with Kevlar lines. I've got them with no air coming out and all fluid but the brake lines still feel spongy. Should I just let them sit over night and retry or should I crack the bolt at the Master cylinder and pull the lever. Any tricks or tips are welcomed.
TIA
RevHappy's Website
2004 Titan Custom 1750cc
2004 Honda Recon ES
2003 Yamaha YZF R6
4 Sale 6,500
2001 KawasakiKDX 200
"I'll tell you what I tell my girl...Even a broken clock is right twice a day"
so u dont loose all ye brakes . some a da fuckers you cant pump 2 the bar (ie) manuals 1/2 " block taped 2 bar so you cant pump it all the way if i remember right ... blah blah blah![]()
Last edited by beet; 08-30-02 at 05:31 AM.
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Heres a condom. I figured since youre acting like a dick, you should dress like one too.
I had the same issue when I put steel-braided lines on my bike last year. I went out and bought a power bleeder from Auto-Zone for around $15 which is basically just a suction pump you attach to the bleed valves on the calipers.
After a little pumping and sucking with that baby, my lines were as hard and stiff as you could ever ask for.
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ooooooooooooo... I LOVE it when you talk like that!![]()
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WWSD? (what would Sneakers do?)
"for every credibility gap, there is a gullibility fill"
jeff f
'97 RF900R
Sounds to me like you still don't have all the air outta the lines. No biggie, really. Ya just gotta give 'em a bit more bleeding. If ya want, I can stop by next week after work and have a look see. Tuesday's best for this kid...
Doesn't sound like it's that big a deal...
Did you grit your teeth and try to look like Clint Fuckin' Eastwood?
Or did you lisp it all hangfisted like a fuckin' flower?
here's a little trick, dunno if it applies for you though:
What you do is, instead of bleeding from the bleeder valve at the caliper, you start by crackingthe banjo closest to the master cylinder. When you get no more air there, you move down, bleeding at each junction'till you get to the end, and bleed it like normal. This helped a lot with my old honda cb 350, it had such a small MC that it almost couldn't move the air down through the lines. Watch out though, you really gotta be carreful not to spray fluid all over the bike when you bleed at the banjos. Use a bunch of rags. Good luck.
Speed bleeder pump things work well too.
"Balls," I said. "Never mind the track. The track is for punks. We are Road People. We are Cafe Racers."
- Hunter S Thompson
2 x 82 GS 650, '94 RM 80
Good tip on cracking the banjos. I know that another method that helps (but still does not seem to get it all), is to take the cap off the master cylinder and wire tie brake lever squeezed all the way in. Leave it this way overnight. No great effort required. One guy at a dealership said that this is how they often do it, and I heard someone who races say that they do it like this too. I found that I still end up cracking the banjo fittings though. Anothe tip is to buy "speed-bleeders". They are basically one-way bleed screws that allow fluid out, but not air back in. This way you can open them and not worry about closing them quickly. I have not used them myself yet, but hear good things.
Tim B.
Manchester, NH
2002 Triumph Daytona 955i
CSBA #256
www.christiansportbike.com
Jesus Rocks!