Calling SV guys

[mzdagrl]

Anyone want to come over some weekend in the relatively near future and help me rebuild my bike? I pay with beer and, because I will undoubtedly try to do something stupid, the right to laugh at me. Thinking early-mid February so I have the time off work.

Replacing: rear shock, fork springs, spacers and possibly adding emulators if Pete finds 'em.

Could probably figure it out myself, but things are always more fun with friends

[BostonSVkid]

what are you replacing the rear shock with? I have done all of these things on a first gen (minus the emulators).

[rice_rocket]

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Can you tell me how to take the seat off it while you are at it? Have to charge my friends...

[mzdagrl]

what are you replacing the rear shock with? I have done all of these things on a first gen (minus the emulators).

Got a GSXR shock from a member here. He bought it for his second gen, I have a second gen....keeping my fingers crossed that it actually works

[nhbubba]

I've been kicking the idea of putting springs and emulators into the forks of my DL. I think the forks in the SV and DL are basically the same, no?

I've never pulled a fork apart. It should be interesting.

[mzdagrl]

I've been kicking the idea of putting springs and emulators into the forks of my DL. I think the forks in the SV and DL are basically the same, no?

I've never pulled a fork apart. It should be interesting.

I have no idea, but I can't imagine they'd be too different. Last time I was present for any fork work, I was 2 months postpartum, not sleeping, and on baby duty. I didn't pay too much attention. Hence the request for help.

[SVRACER01]

forks are easy. pull them off, remove caps, pull springs, dump oil. replace in reverse order.
shock is fairly easy. gonna need a jack to take pressure off of the shock. might need an impact gun to break the bolts loose.

[reiobard]

forks are easy. pull them off, remove caps, pull springs, dump oil. replace in reverse order.
shock is fairly easy. gonna need a jack to take pressure off of the shock. might need an impact gun to break the bolts loose.

Luckily we have both


Any tips on how to measure and set the sag on the front? it was a while ago that i set mine and honestly forget how to do it, that is the only thing i am actuall not sure how to do. I think thi is more of an excuse to get some winter wrencing in with some friends.

Bike is in the basement so stays a constand 50ish degrees all winter, but might come up with a way to make it warner for work day.

[SVRACER01]

sag is gonna be tough on the front since it isnt adjustable per say. the best you can do is cut down the spacer in the forks. this means assembling, measuring, pulling caps and spacers, cutting, reassembling, measuring and so on. if at any point you cut too much off youre screwed and all youre really doing is setting preload. although if the bike has preload adjusters i bet you can get it close. (these are my presumptions of course.)

the rear may be a bit easier, but im not entirely convinced that putting a GSXR shock on is the best solution. IIRC that spring is softer than the SV spring, and even if you tighten everything up on the adjusters (max) it may only be slightly better than a stock set up. i know a lot of people swear it makes a huge difference, but all the evidence i have says contrary. i think its mostly mental and partly that people dont want to admit that it didnt make a difference. it is an inexpensive "upgrade" if it works, and if it doesnt...well....it was inexpensive. so i def see the motivation to try it.

[SVRACER01]

OH! lol...to answer the sag question. here i found this.

"Step one is to determine your fork and shock's fully extended (unladen) measurements. To do this you'll need to get both wheels off the ground, though not at the same time. On bikes with sidestands, the front wheel can be raised relatively easily by rocking the bike over on its stand and raising the front end; this is much harder to do with the rear wheel, but it can be done if the person doing the raising is both strong and coordinated. Centerstands make raising the rear wheel simple, though an underengine stand (or a sidestand) will be necessary for bikes lacking them.


For the back wheel number, measure the distance from the axle vertically to some point on the chassis using a tape measure; metric figures are easiest and more precise. A graphic point on the sidepanel or the bottom edge of the panel itself work well as reference points. Be sure to mark the exact points you used because you'll need to refer to them again. Record this measurement on a notepad next to the notation marked "R, unladen." Up front, extend the fork completely with the wheel in the air and measure from the wiper (the dust seal between the shiny slider and textured stanchion) to a point on the bottom triple clamp (or the lower fork casting on an inverted fork). Record this measurement next to the notation "F, unladen."

Now you're ready to record the same two measurements with the fully outfitted rider on the bike (these would be the "laden" numbers). Ask a buddy to hold the front or back of the bike while you get settled, and have a third person (preferably the one who took the unladen measurements) record the laden numbers front and rear. Mark these as "R, laden" and "F, laden." Subtract the laden front and rear numbers from the unladen front and rear numbers and bingo!--you've got your two sag numbers.

Thede likes to work with 30-35mm of sag on streetbikes, 25-30mm for racebikes. Your numbers will likely be higher than these (a softer ride), in which case you'll want to increase spring preload on the shock and/or fork. If your numbers are less than these (a firmer ride), try reducing preload a bit. Adjust things until the measurements fall within acceptable parameters. You'll have to remeasure after making the preload changes, of course.

Remember, there is no magic number. If you like the feel of the bike with slightly less or more sag than these guidelines, no worries. Your personal sag and front-to-rear sag bias will depend on various factors, including chassis geometry, track or road conditions, tire selection, rider weight and/or riding style."

[OreoGaborio]

Here are some numbers to shoot for. Not sure if you'll be able to get close to these in the rear with that GSXR shock, though.

http://www.svrider.com/forum/showthread.php?t=91980

Think I'm running roughly these numbers (just keep in mind that my bike is set up for racing and is INCREDIBLY stiff):

Front free sag 22mm, total 37mm.
Measure the front from the top of the bottom triple clamp down to the middle of the axle on the left fork, and thats about 516mm fully extended.

rear 12mm sag, total 34mm.
342mm eye to eye.


As said at Chinese, the spacers I gave you WILL require some trimming. PK did the math in his head over the phone & told me to cut them that length so as to have some wiggle room for you.

Haven't found those damn emulators yet. I'll keep looking.

[TheIglu]

I bought a 8 foot length of PVC pipe to use as spacers. Cheap and works well.

[SRTie4k]

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Can you tell me how to take the seat off it while you are at it? Have to charge my friends...

The seat comes off with two allen bolts from both sides, under the mini plastic mid-fairing/louver things directly under the seat.

That's the only thing I remember about my SV650.

[csmutty]

The seat comes off with two allen bolts from both sides, under the mini plastic mid-fairing/louver things directly under the seat.

That's the only thing I remember about my SV650.

I was just about to answer the same question haha. Yeah it's just the 2 allens.

[rice_rocket]

I was just about to answer the same question haha. Yeah it's just the 2 allens.

Hmm awesome.. I was looking when my friend dropped the bike off but I thought I pulled them both or one side.. and the seat still wouldn't budge.. I'll take another look when it gets a little warmer so I can slap the trickle charger onto the bikes..

[OreoGaborio]

unbolt the two allens, lift from the front of the seat by the tank.

[mzdagrl]

I think thi is more of an excuse to get some winter wrencing in with some friends.

Bike is in the basement so stays a constand 50ish degrees all winter, but might come up with a way to make it warner for work day.

That's exactly what this was intended to be. Beer, friends, and wrenching int he middle of winter.

unbolt the two allens, lift from the front of the seat by the tank.

Yup, it's that easy.

[SVRACER01]

you skipped a step. remove 2 allens (4mm?)from the black plastic shrouds under the sides of the seat. THEN remove the 2 (6mm) allens that hold the seat. lift from front.

[nhbubba]

Bought me some emulators last night.

What are you all using for shock oil? I've heard folks recommend synthetic ATF, of all things.

[RandyO]

I bought a 8 foot length of PVC pipe to use as spacers. Cheap and works well.

I was going to recommend a length of PVC to cut spacers from