Front brake lever play, air in the line?

[Cheese]

I replaced my front brake pads last week. This week I'm noticing that the first pull on the lever seems to have more travel than I'm used to. If I pump it a couple times it tightens right up like I remember. There's plenty of braking, it just doesn't seem to kick in where I'm used and that reaction distance seems to vary depending on how long ago I hit the brakes. There's plenty of fluid in the reservoir and everything is tight. Could I have gotten air in the lines somehow or is this a sign of another problem?

[Doc]

Sounds like you need to bleed them to me.

[R1]

try the zip tie bleeding trick, then bleed the master cylinder and calipers again.

open the reservoir put a couple zipties on the broke lever and let it sit for a couple hours. just be sure to put something over the fluid so nothing falls in.

then just be sure to bleed them one more time after they sit.

definitely sounds like air in the line.

[jcbell1007]

I bought a small hand vacuum pump for bleeding my brakes. workes great for one person brake bleeding. it was like $20 at autozone or something like that. It has a small bottle to catch the fluid and a tone of other attachments to do other crap with it.

[ChR1s]

Sticking seals and/or crud on the pistons can cause the pistons to overtravel back into their pots, thereby increasing the volume of fluid necessary to push the pistons towards the pads. If you didn't clean the caliper assemblies while you had the pads out, you may want to take a look there.

[Cheese]

I bled the lines and saw no bubbles which I sort of expected since I didn't open them up when I replaced the pads. Upon further investigation of the symptoms and troubleshooting I have unfortunately learned I have a warped rotor. It all makes sense now ....

The warped rotor compresses the brake pistons while riding. When I apply the brake, the pistons now have further to travel since they've been recessed by the warped rotor tapping them. Once I've extended them by pulling the brake lever they act normally.

All you expert wrenchers probably already knew this but I thought I'd share my story for those that didn't and suffer the same symptoms.

[TimD]

Shouldn't the warped rotor also cause tons of vibration under any braking? Its always been my experience that a warped rotor makes it vibrate well before noticeably affecting travel.

[Cheese]

No, not a ton. Very slight but now getting worse. Rotors are on order.

[Jim]

rob did you order stock or an aftermarket upgrade?

[Wishbone]

Check your tire pressure and oil leval

[Cheese]

EBC Pro-Lite Contour

[Jim]

excellent choice cheese. i'm looking into gafler wave rotors after i do SS brake lines

[Cheese]

I looked at those too. Very nice!

[loridin64]

i have a set EBC's. They're great.

[Billy]

excellent choice cheese. i'm looking into gafler wave rotors after i do SS brake lines

You just need to get a different bike!!!! Your bike has bad karma!

[KB]

Whoever changed your tires probably bent the rotor.

Fuckin hack.

KB

[Jim]

You just need to get a different bike!!!! Your bike has bad karma!

[KillBill]

Yeah....damn GixxAH's!!

[Cheese]

Whoever changed your tires probably bent the rotor.

Fuckin hack.

KB

I think I over heated them at the track.

[KB]

I think I over heated them at the track.

Dude there is no way you warped them at the track. In order for that to happen you would need to go "FAST" at the track no?

KB

[Cheese]

Dude there is no way you warped them at the track. In order for that to happen you would need to go "FAST" at the track no?

KB

Throttle=Go Fast
Brake lever=Go Slow