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Last edited by kazspeed; 03-02-11 at 04:14 PM.
Degsy: "i never had red hair"
some people crash because it is out of their control
others crash because They are out of control
http://www.landricscustoms.com
there is a DIY way to modify your stock one (if like mine, it's spring loaded and bound to fail) into a fully adjustable one like the APE cct's. all it takes is 1 stock cam chain tensioner, and about $1.50 in hardware. found it on my superhawk forum:
Honda Cam Chain Tensioners, yes they suck big time but there is a $1.50 fix for the later Hondas, F3 and up. If the CCT has a plug (bolt) at the outer end remove it. Buy a 6X1.25X30mm bolt and nut. Thread the nut on the bolt and install the bolt into the hole that the plug was in. Gently (fingertip pressure only) rotate bolt until it makes contact with the piston. Hold bolt with wrench and tighten nut against the CCT case. Your CCT will now be silent. Why does this fix work? The CCT in the Hondas does not have a ratcheting mechanism. It depends on a left handed threaded shaft that is spring loaded. Due to the locking pitch thread design this shaft cannot back up. Sounds good so far. Unfortunatly the shaft stays in one place so long that the constant vibration wears out the shaft or the nut that the shaft rides in. The shaft gets sloppy and does not exert enough pressure on the chain pad so the chain starts to rattle at high rpm. The bolt fix exerts just enough pressure on the threaded shaft that it prevents the shaft from vibrating and backing up thus eliminating the chain noise. Yes you will have to adjust the bolt but so far I have no historical data as to how long the time intervals are in between adjustments. Maybe some of you big milege people can provide the data. Any way, hope it prevents you from buying a new CCT. Latest data, the cheap fix has been working for at least 60K miles in a Honda F4.
NOTE: I read that the bolt size is actually 6x1x30mm, but i just took long metric bolts that fit the threads and used these. I sprayed them with lubricant so i could use finger pressure to feel contact point. Also, when you take the OEM bolt out, save the washer under the locknut and reuse to keep oil from leaking. Also, on the rear cylinder, oil will run out so be prepared to insert new bolt when you do it. I did the front first. Of course, don't turn motor over during this procedure.
I found out about this AFTER I bought my APEs, so it was too late. I have 2 OEM hawk ones that could be modified if you're interested and if they fit your cbr.
Last edited by ɹǝʍoןandɹǝʍoן; 11-01-10 at 01:16 PM.
The hard part for doing the CCT is taking the tank off. DIY - you're looking under $50 and about an hour of your time. Save yourself some headaches - get a set of 1/4 drive tools, and the hex tools with a ball end. Other than that - as with most jobs, you're going to find your wrist doesn't bend the right way, and your hands are too big...
SSearchVT
For every action there is an equal but opposite reaction - and sometimes a scar...
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Yep. That's about it. They made it a bit easier on the rrOriginally Posted by SSearchVT
Waiting to find out where anyone got a cctl changed on an f4i for $120 including cost of parts (ape manual tensioner).
Because that's what it costs when it's done right. Good luck at cycles 128 if they are charging you 1 hour to change a cctl on an F4i. We wouldn't pull the bike in the shop for $65. Seriously.
remove seat, remove tank side covers, remove fuel tank (no quick disconnects on that bike), remove airbox, move throttle bodies out of the way, change cctl and gasket ($70 in parts), replace all removed parts, adjust new manual cctl.
On a 600RR, no problem. 1 hour for sure, probably less. I have done it at least 20 times on an f4i and it's a bitch to get at. maybe they have a better way to do it
Last edited by Degsy; 11-18-10 at 04:18 PM.
I agree, Cycles 128 is hit or miss sometimes...but Degsy in a PM questioned anyone charging less than what he quoted me, which was $200.
Then he decided to make this public discussion, for some reason, by asking who paid $120 (as I know other F4i owners who paid $120-$150).
$200 just seems absurd to me, thats more than 25% more than I have ever heard anyone pay.
Honestly, having done my own CCT on my F4i, that's extremely reasonable. I wouldn't touch that whole GBM/128 circus with a 20 foot pole.
LRRS 878 Clapped out Gixxah
Actually, when you PM'd Boston Moto to tell us that $200 was too much, you said that you knew people who had paid a little over half that. We replied with the statement that we would genuinely be interested to know who could charge a little over $100 when the parts cost about $70 alone.
The way to deal with the situation would have been to say "ok" and get the job done wherever you want, not send a snotty PM intimating that we are trying to rip you off. You can see for yourself in this thread that I (degsy) already agreed on the 6th that it was "about an hour" job and under $50 in parts for an oem cctl. (an aftermarket one is $70 with a gasket)
Now, let's assume that you come in with a tank full of gas (as most people do). Now we have to drain it, add 10 minutes, etc etc. I would never quote an hour on a job that I think will take "about an hour". That would be crazy.
We give "estimates" also. I could give you an "estimate" of an hour but what would you say if I went over the hour? Better to quote $200 and charge $200.
What if the part breaks in 20 days? Now we have to warranty that part and replace it labor-free. Try going to back to most repair shops and asking that.
Bottom line, we gave you a set price for the job, take it or leave it, don't PM us telling us we are overcharging you. PM us saying "thanks but I got a better quote elsewhere."
Actually...... the only thing I PM'd you was that that was more than what I knew others paid, and thanks anyways.
I believe you were the one who posted here and tried to make it a public issue, just because I wouldn't pay $200.
Ill make sure to let people know my views of BostonMoto if I ever hear your company brought up.
good luck with that.
back on topic about Cycles128, do a search on here for threads discussing Cycles128. In fact i think there was someone who had their R6 there for a warranty claim within the last 3-4 weeks. they kept it there so long, he had to threaten lemon law violations to get it back. long story short, you probably should go to Cycles128.
youre a whiney bitch arent you? if you dont want to pay a reputable shop to fix your bike, why dont you learn how to get your hands dirty?
good luck trying to smear a shops name on a forum where they are very well respected.
200 bucks for that job is very reasonable.
Last edited by darkduc7; 11-19-10 at 08:59 AM.
CCS/LRRS EX #226
LOW DOWN RACING
Current stable:
2008 hyper 1100
2007 crf450r
2009 yz450f
2008 sikk mx 125 minimoto
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You can't please all of the people all of the time, much as you might try.Originally Posted by kazspeed
Sorry.
A couple of quotes that I like to use (not mine)
"we do work fast, cheap, right. Pick two." PK
And "shit costs what shit costs" ANON
No WAY, I'd rather pay 100$ total and have my engine lock up and rag doll me when the timing chain jump's a tooth or two..then I will be Happy that I saved a few bucks![]()
LRRS EX 66
BostonMoto | Yoshimura | GoPro | K/N | Amsoil | Computrack | Vortex Sprockets |
EBC | Dunlop | Woodcraft | ArmourBodies | Fuel Clothing | Progrip | FmF Racing|
factoryeffex
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Plenty of folks try to strong arm prices down in this economy. Luckily, we have enough work to fend it off and maintain quality at a price that makes it worth our while to do the job. There are shops I guess that will do jobs very cheaply of course.
I still don't believe Seacoast would do that job for $150, not with the reputation for quality that they have.
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Haha. Well, to be honest Shawn it's pretty hard to screw up a cctl install but on the f4i it just takes so much work to actually get to the damn thing. On my race bike (02 f4i, see my avatar) I used o change the cctl every second race weekend (high lift cams and hrc springs will eat those oem tensioners up pronto)Originally Posted by Pigman
im doing my cct's on my sv...the front ones not bad...but the rear one is a serious pita to get to.
things required to move:
tank
airbox
my carbs are out anyway, but im not sure if they have to be
right rearset
oh, and you need a cct tool. and new gaskets. plus a new cct if you need it.
hence why it costs a bit of money to do...![]()
CCS/LRRS EX #226
LOW DOWN RACING
Current stable:
2008 hyper 1100
2007 crf450r
2009 yz450f
2008 sikk mx 125 minimoto