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I have a small gas leak where the petcock tube gets welded to the tank. I've tried JB Weld specific for gas, Quick steel and nothing is working from the outside. They are good just for the quick and short term fix. I've heard of creaming the inside of the tank. Let me get this out of the way. <I'm sure Denno will help me out here. > <AND no, I am not going to buy a newer bike.>
Back to the topic.
I've have heard of POR 15 products and it seems to work. Anyone else have any other suggestions?
Anyone hear for this stuff?
Does it work?
$73 bucks. Can I get it cheaper?
FUEL TANK REPAIR KIT-POR-15 Inc.
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Gino
HAWK GT Racer Expert #929
2012 CCS LRRS ULSB Champion
2012 CCS LRRS P89 Champion
2008 CCS ULSB National Champion
ECKRACING Bridgestone Street & Competition Woodcraft MOTUL On Track Media Pine Motorparts Vanson Leathers
Why not just have it welded?
"I'd rather ride a slow bike fast than a fast bike slow"
Bikes: Ducati: 748 (Track) Honda: RC31 (Race/street)/ CRF 110 Mini Moto/ Hawk Endurance Racer Kawasaki: ZXR1200R
BOMO Instructor
EX# X
We can have a tank bukkake session and get the inside creamed up for you!!! You weren't hoping for a serius response with a post like that were you?
KB
I did not really expect too much from here. I figured if I got 1 good response out of 100jokes it would be good.
Gino
HAWK GT Racer Expert #929
2012 CCS LRRS ULSB Champion
2012 CCS LRRS P89 Champion
2008 CCS ULSB National Champion
ECKRACING Bridgestone Street & Competition Woodcraft MOTUL On Track Media Pine Motorparts Vanson Leathers
The products you're trying, like the JB Weld, have to go on a clean, dry and scuffed surface. Anything that's not one of those three and it's gonna fail.
It must be 100% dry, acetone-clean and lightly scuffed doesn't hurt either.
What I do is apply the product and let it dry for at least a couple days....and by that I mean "at least 2 days".
The other option is welding. That is probably your only fail-safe and permanent solution.
I can braze that for you but it will be a few days before you get it back. Gotta flush the fumes out and prep the surfaces.
Let me know.
Yep did that. I had the perfect metal. Wire wheeled ALL the paint off. 80 grit paper, frenched it with a nice curved file for that extra grip and kissed it with brake cleaner. I had great adhesion. Just the gas ate thru this stuff.
I had thought about brazing it. I figured this would "GET IT DONE". I may have to take you up on this. I thought of the whole fume thing and heat. Some times it can be a bad combination. I probably will not be able to get out to you until next week. Can I set up time for a visit?
I'm going to take the tank out tonight. Drain it, Acetone it and apply lots of compressed air to it. Oh & prep the area.
I know about the brazing rod. What kind of fuel do you heat the area with? I'm assuming it is more than propane.
Gino
HAWK GT Racer Expert #929
2012 CCS LRRS ULSB Champion
2012 CCS LRRS P89 Champion
2008 CCS ULSB National Champion
ECKRACING Bridgestone Street & Competition Woodcraft MOTUL On Track Media Pine Motorparts Vanson Leathers
The way I'd do it is to drain the fuel from the tank and do no less than 1 complete fill-n-shake followed by 3 half-fill, shake and flushes using a degreaser/ water mix. I've used a biodegradable degreaser (like Simple Green or Purple Power) mixed with water. 50/ 50 is a strong mix, IMO but will certainly get the job done. Then, simply flush with hot water a few times to wash away any residual degreaser that remains.
Oxy Acetylene is the only way to go for brazing.
You can visit any time. Hit me up. I'll be around for the rest of the week.
Seriously. Be careful guys.
I'd give this a read if you're going to do it.
TC 9-237 Chptr 2 Safety Precautions in Welding Operations
David King | ASRA/CCS/WERA SE EX #484
"Any society that would give up a little liberty to gain a little security will deserve neither and lose both."-Benjamin Franklin
You don't have to trust me but you should.
Flushing with numerous washes of a non-flammable cleaning solution (such as a mix of non-flammable degreaser and non-flammable water) will get rid of any remaining fuel...vapor or otherwise. The key is preparation. This is not something that should be hurried in any way.
daviid- It's more than just filling the tank with water, it's purging and cleansing the entire tank of any flammables and replacing with a non flammable liquid such as water.
is this for a Hawk ....well if it is I might just have a tank in good condition laying around the garage for you in trade for your leaky one. saves the trouble of above mentioned process.
your Hawk RULES!![]()
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Originally Posted by hammadown .....The rule is:
If even Zip Tie Alley says, "no you shouldn't use a zip tie on that" you REALLLLLLY shouldn't use a zip tie on that! lol
Gino
HAWK GT Racer Expert #929
2012 CCS LRRS ULSB Champion
2012 CCS LRRS P89 Champion
2008 CCS ULSB National Champion
ECKRACING Bridgestone Street & Competition Woodcraft MOTUL On Track Media Pine Motorparts Vanson Leathers
Gino
HAWK GT Racer Expert #929
2012 CCS LRRS ULSB Champion
2012 CCS LRRS P89 Champion
2008 CCS ULSB National Champion
ECKRACING Bridgestone Street & Competition Woodcraft MOTUL On Track Media Pine Motorparts Vanson Leathers