Anyone here have a 2 post lift?

[xrocket21]

I have been going round in circles, one place won't call me back, one suggested a top of the line model, one place is going out of business, Benpak was recommended, then I was told Bendpak is tough to get parts and the warranty sucks. Latest suggestion is this place in NH:

https://www.nhproequip.com/2-post-lifts-1

Most places have home delivery, but looks like it will be too much weight for my palletforks to lift.

Anyone here have experience in this?

Ill be lifting my wifes Explorer ST and my Superduty (7k lbs?)

Im leaning toward 10k lbs, but a friend says its going to crush me and Ill die, no less than 12k lbs.

Low ceiling height, 10'

[boosten lebaron]

Are you set on a 2 post? The 4 seemed like the better option to me. I am still waiting on the garage to be built so i havent ordered one.
A 9k 4 post lift will be plenty strong.
NHproequip is where i will be buying from when i do. You can pick it up right in there and bring it home. They have plenty of spares on hand for what they sell.

[PurplePackage]

How thick and reinforced is your floor? I looked into them and they've posted 6" concrete is enough, and it seriously is not.

[xrocket21]

Are you set on a 2 post? The 4 seemed like the better option to me. I am still waiting on the garage to be built so i havent ordered one.
A 9k 4 post lift will be plenty strong.
NHproequip is where i will be buying from when i do. You can pick it up right in there and bring it home. They have plenty of spares on hand for what they sell.

100% 2 post for the work I need to do and the height I have available. I guess I could drive to NH and get it. I assume they could get it in my 18' v-nose trailer.

- - - Updated - - -

How thick and reinforced is your floor? I looked into them and they've posted 6" concrete is enough, and it seriously is not.

I have considered that, and I don't really know.

[PurplePackage]

Drilling down near the post location and checking the concrete depth is a precursor to shopping for a lift. Anything less than 8" and you're only going to be comfortable lifting Toyota Corollas up onto it.

[xrocket21]

Drilling down near the post location and checking the concrete depth is a precursor to shopping for a lift. Anything less than 8" and you're only going to be comfortable lifting Toyota Corollas up onto it.

I considered that, but a little hesitant just hogging out a test hole in the garage floor lol

edit: texted someone who would know and they are pretty sure its 3"... fuck.

[PurplePackage]

You can't really buy anything until you know, unless you're planning on cutting out a 5x5 square and reinforcing the floor anyway. You can fill the hole up with concrete crack filler or just leave it if the floor is deeper than you thought. 1/4" hole is all you need.

[MUZ720]

I was thinking about one of these, I don't have room for posts. https://www.bendpak.com/car-lifts/mi...lifts/mds-6lp/ figured i could park on it?

[xrocket21]

Looks like a 4 post lift may be friendlier to thin concrete. SO much more money when you include the jacks as well.

[xrocket21]

Well, looks like I'm gonna have to drill some pilot holes. The concrete may be 4", and 4" is the min I need.

[obsolete]

Well, looks like I'm gonna have to drill some pilot holes. The concrete may be 4", and 4" is the min I need.

Anything under 4 and I'm afraid the outcome is the same. You die.

[xrocket21]

Anything under 4 and I'm afraid the outcome is the same. You die.

bummer

[OneCheekRider]

Anything under 4 and I'm afraid the outcome is the same. You die.

Hold up, you can live a long and meaningful life under 4"... wait...what are we talking about again?

[butcher bergs]

I would most certainly consider not sticking with the minimum concrete thickness and strongly consider cutting into the floor, removing unnecessary material and pouring new anchor points regardless of 2 or 4 post.

Minimums are great and all but you're going to be under a couple/few tons of weight and trusting that over the long term.

[obsolete]

Hold up, you can live a long and meaningful life under 4"... wait...what are we talking about again?

Not according to my wife.

[boosten lebaron]

You can also consider a wider post base just in case. I know nhpower equipment has that option on some of the 4 post lifts they sell so you can spread the load.

[Rada]

I have a lift on my "Next for tool for the shop" list.

I've looked at lots. Still up in the air. 10 or 12K and extra wide would be on my list.
I'll do a couple test holes but will likely go ahead and cut the floor and pour a solid base.
It will pain me to cut through my glorious epoxy paint....

[R7]

I’ve got a 9,000lb 2 post lift with the offset arms. I had the floor put in at my place and under the entire bay, I had it 8” thick. If I had a garage with a 4” floor, I wouldn’t touch it as long as the concrete isn’t full of cracks. A 4” slab can hold a lot more weight than one would think, certainly more than the 5,000lbs required for each post. Also when these companies spec the concrete thickness, there’s usually a 3-1 safety factor figured in.
Just as an FYI, my lift also said 4” minimum thickness for concrete, but they sent me 1”x 4” concrete anchors. The anchors have a 1” nut, the base of the lift was 1” thick, which meant the anchors were only in the concrete 2”. I ended up buying 1” x 6” anchors so I would get the 4” of concrete.

At the time, I had a John Deere 110 with forks, and it wouldn’t lift it. Mine came in a box trailer without side access. I had to drag it to the end of the truck, then use a sling in the center and picked it up with the backhoe on my 510.

Check the height specs, mine is 11’ 6” high

[PurplePackage]

A 4" slab is not going to safely hold more than 4000lbs. A 4.25" rebar-reinforced slab will hold up to 9000lbs. Don't over-simplify the difference between reinforced concrete and a straight pour. Without the reinforcement, its just not safe until you're at 8".

https://www.bendpak.com/media/wysiwy...on2-Rev._B.pdf

[xrocket21]

I believe the slab is poured directly on ledge and I'm wondering if I can use like a 12" anchor through to that.

I also looked, and there is a seam right midway where I think the posts would go which I'm sure is not ideal.

edit: Never install the Lift over concrete expansion or control joints of any kind.

[02redhawk]

I installed a 4 post about 8 years ago. No need to anchor it down. In fact it came with 4 dolly wheels that you can use to move it though I don't know why you would want to do that. They easily handle a P/U truck or SUV. The bigger issue would be overhead clearance and what tasks your planning on using it for. With a 10' ceiling you may only get the undercarriage of the car 3' off the ground. Plenty to use a creeper to get under and do most work as long as you don't mind entering from the front or back to get under. The side access to the wheels is fine though you'll want to keep a few wood blocks to support the corner you are taking the tire/rim off. Be sure to check the amps required for the motor on any 2 or 4 post lift. A lift over over 9K lbs likely uses a 30 amp breaker. Not saying you can't use a 20 amp though it would be worth checking.

[02redhawk]

Should have added you can do engine/exhaust/transmission work with a 4 post lift. You'll get creative in how you plan on dropping heavy stuff like a transmission.

[xrocket21]

I installed a 4 post about 8 years ago. No need to anchor it down. In fact it came with 4 dolly wheels that you can use to move it though I don't know why you would want to do that. They easily handle a P/U truck or SUV. The bigger issue would be overhead clearance and what tasks your planning on using it for. With a 10' ceiling you may only get the undercarriage of the car 3' off the ground. Plenty to use a creeper to get under and do most work as long as you don't mind entering from the front or back to get under. The side access to the wheels is fine though you'll want to keep a few wood blocks to support the corner you are taking the tire/rim off. Be sure to check the amps required for the motor on any 2 or 4 post lift. A lift over over 9K lbs likely uses a 30 amp breaker. Not saying you can't use a 20 amp though it would be worth checking.

The majority of my regular use will be swapping summer/winter wheels over and oil changes. My wifes explorer ST is a bitch to jack cause theres shit lift points and little place to put a jackstand and its low. The truck is a bitch to jack because I need to use blocks on the jack and blocks on the jackstands. I have no illusions of getting under a vehicle and standing up, I am aware I will still be on a creeper. I do all our vehicle work, and at some point my kids will have cars as well so Ill be doing tires, brakes, oil changes on 4 vehicles, just looking to make my life easier. Maybe a 4 post is the answer, but its a lot more money for a 4 post with jacks.

[boosten lebaron]

I would think that if you have even a slight concern about your floor being able to handle a 2 post lift then the 4 post is the only choice regardless of cost. In my case the 4 post made more sense because i will be using it as a storage rack for cars with the side ability to work on them. Even with my 10ft ceiling i can store the miata and have something else below it and have a decent amount of room to get around.

[xrocket21]

I would think that if you have even a slight concern about your floor being able to handle a 2 post lift then the 4 post is the only choice regardless of cost. In my case the 4 post made more sense because i will be using it as a storage rack for cars with the side ability to work on them. Even with my 10ft ceiling i can store the miata and have something else below it and have a decent amount of room to get around.

Its leaning that way for sure. Then I would install myself. 2 post I would pay to get it installed.

edit: with my friggen collarbone Id still need it installed