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Just got my first new new car and want to take care of it right from the beginning.
I want to get it detailed; deep wash, clayed, compounded, sealed, and waxed. I would do this myself but don't have a garage and it's 13 degrees outside now.
Also want to get tints done using carbon tints or above. So far I've been hearing good things about Tint Works in Burlington. They use Llumar carbon tints for $190 and ceramics for $290. Any where else that's recommended?
I'm in Quincy. Willing to travel a bit for the good stuff.
Four wheels move the body, two wheels move the soul.
Current: 690E. Past: FE250, S1000XR, S1000R, Streefighter S, Monster S2R1000, RC51
I used Tint King in Billerica on my last couple cars. I got a new truck last weekend and will probably get it done there next week.
I've always used Sheldon.. S&S window tinting.. he is a member on the board, although I don't know if he frequents much anymore. He's tinted so many of my cars, all worked great, all one piece and hand cut for the special pieces.. he's talented.
Although Tint King is definitely a +1 that everyone recommends. Can't tell you of a spectacular detailer however..I've used various friends etc over time and they do amazing jobs at good prices.. but eventually all the wax etc goes away. I use it to revive for the summer, and to finish it away for the winter and so far so good. I'd personally find someone local because usually for the full job I'm paying close to $200 but I have to leave the car the entire day for it to be worked on.
Tint King in Billerica MA and Paul's Executive Car Care in Manchester NH
Tint King
978-670-2927
505 Middlesex Turnpike
Billerica, MA 01821
Paul’s Car Care | Manchester NH | Auto Detailing/Cleaning | Sales | Consignments| Storage
603-627-4300
What kind of car!?![]()
Talk to bigshel for tinting. He's the man
As for detailing on the south side. Driven Perfection is the best
2003 ZX7R
1995 916
FYI Sheldon worked to get Tint Works in Billerica to open and get the owner up here and the shop set up, I believe he still is working with him. The owner of that shop is from Florida and won best tinter in the country a couple times.
Theres a place in Abington next to one of my sponsors shop who has done a pretty good job to my dually
CCS #31
Ended up making an appointment with Driven Perfection and Tint Works.
Thanks all!
Four wheels move the body, two wheels move the soul.
Current: 690E. Past: FE250, S1000XR, S1000R, Streefighter S, Monster S2R1000, RC51
Driven Perfection did the front end clear protection on my new Bimmer. Very happy with them.
why would you clay bar and compound a brand new car?
What a waste of effort and potentially ruining your brand new paint with swirl marks. I'd have it hand washed and waxed period ( I highly recommend Zaino wax). then have it clayed after NEXT winter.
Compounding is for taking marks out of your paint and clay bars are for taking environmental contaminates off your paint. If your car is a 2015-16 and right from the showroom both of these are a waste of money as you most likley don't have marks in your paint or any contaminates.
What I would do is put on some of the clear 3M protectant film on the front, best thing I've ever got on my car.
Got that on my newer Civic SI (I bought it new in October of 2015) and the front end is still all beautiful after 2 full winters.
OH also pick up some Weather Tech floor mats. I use them year around... you'll thank me later
Last edited by scubasteveRR; 02-26-16 at 09:31 AM.
I washed my car last weekend (2 bucket method)then applied Iron-X. There was tons of contaminates on the paint which otherwise looked rather clean. It was more contaminated toward the rear at the hatch area,as well as the hood.
New cars collected alot of stuff on the paint during transport, and sitting around, that can't be removed with a wash. A lot of airborne iron particles around rail yards. This also makes claying the car easier (less work) when most of it is removed chemically.
If you're marring or scratching the paint while you clay, then your not using enough lube or not using fresh clay.
I already found some dealer installed scratches after I washed the car. There are marks on the hood that looks like someone with a machine polisher let it run wild and left M's in the clearcoat. Their wash and detail department is there to just pump out cars that look clean but often scratch the cars up in the process. If I knew what I know now I would have told them I wanted a non-PDIed car with plastics still on it.
I'd do it myself but I really don't want to learn how to polish on my new car. Plus, the weather is a factor.
Last edited by SwiftTone; 02-26-16 at 10:28 AM.
Four wheels move the body, two wheels move the soul.
Current: 690E. Past: FE250, S1000XR, S1000R, Streefighter S, Monster S2R1000, RC51
Four wheels move the body, two wheels move the soul.
Current: 690E. Past: FE250, S1000XR, S1000R, Streefighter S, Monster S2R1000, RC51
don't recall - but that sounds about right. I keep my cars forever so it was worth it to me. My wife's 2010 Lexus IS has a really low nose, and there's not a chip in it.
Actually, i never said you'd be scratching your car but clay bars do remove paint if you don't use them correctly. IMO, using a clay bar and buffing the car with compound will do the same thing which is clean the paint, but in addition the buffing will also take out the dealer installed marks. i'd go for just a nice buffing.
I think $600 is a @ standard pricing. I wouldn't cheap out either I don't have any yellowing in mine yet but i'm sure it will get replaced after a couple more winters, from what I understand those things are is a sense temporary with the beating they take here in N.E.. it will basically sand/salt blast through it about 5 years or a 100k miles or so. This is my first time getting it as my last 2 civics had sand blasted fronts and I wanted to avoid it with my brand new one
Nice, glad to see it holds up well over the years. CURIOS how many miles on your wife's car by chance and how is the clear bra holding up? think you'll need it replaced anytime soon? does she do a lot of winter driving?
Four wheels move the body, two wheels move the soul.
Current: 690E. Past: FE250, S1000XR, S1000R, Streefighter S, Monster S2R1000, RC51
Nice, glad to see it holds up well over the years. CURIOS how many miles on your wife's car by chance and how is the clear bra holding up? think you'll need it replaced anytime soon? does she do a lot of winter driving?[/QUOTE]
58K - was our daily commuter for two years until I got my Bimmer. Now it sits in the garage for 5 days of the week. It looks as good as new.
all true, i think you missed my point there... all i was saying is that BOTH clay baring and buffing is over kill.
if you JUST want to remove contaminates then just clay bar.
but since you need to ALSO fix some scratches i would recommend just buff the whole car which will also remove contaminates while fixing your scratches.
IMPO buffing causes the light to hit it the paint different than a factory original paint job (swirling) and it's even more noticeable when you only do a small portion of the car because in strong sunlight and bright parking lots lights you'll see the difference between the buffed and un-buffed parts of the car.
sweet, hoping it will last till 100k on my car, it sits outside in the sun all day too so i hope it doesn't yellow but I "think" i got the good stuff. we'll see.
Last edited by scubasteveRR; 02-26-16 at 02:52 PM.