dirtbike for 'bubs

[breakdirt916]

Speaking personally (and completely thread-jacking at this point), I think a DRZ400 would be pretty nifty in my garage. I've gone so far as to ponder the "which one" question to myself. I think an -SM with a spare set of wheels would be the ticket for me, personally. Yeah, yeah, it's too underpowered and too heavy. But so am I and we all look the other way.

I just don't think I am that serious about off-road riding.. ever.

Although I'd still like to try some real dirt bikes a time or two just to confirm.

---------------------------------------------------------

Does that include gear? Trailer? Mounts? Support paraphernalia to get you to/from trail? (Yeah, yeah, some of that I have.. some I don't.)

With a DRZ you can safely wear street gear while buzzing down a public road and occasionally pretend you're a badass offroader. That's how it plays out in my imagination anyway.

do you have a budget?

with enough money, anything is possible

but with the drz's cost: SM >> street legal dirt models >> dirt only models

the extra rims is a possibility, but sometimes it'll cost you another $3-400 for used (bent?) dirt rims, and another $80-150 for DOT knobbies...and you have to swap them yourself.

for an occasional poop around the field (meaning < 2-3/year) just rent. If anything, renting for a day will give you a more clear picture on whether or not you want to invest in actually buying one

but yes, street plates open up a lot of riding...and you can get proper dirtbikes converted to street use, you just gotta look around

[nhbubba]

do you have a budget?

No. No budget, no plan. Just bullshitting on the 'net because my job is boring and management keeps forgetting to give us any deadlines. (I know, such problems to have..)

[breakdirt916]

Nevermind then

[TheIglu]

Come on over, you can try a real dirtbike out. Think a mountain bike with 40hp and tons of suspension/traction. Silly fun.

[nhbubba]

I gotta move to the country even further out into the boonies...

And retire. Retire rich.. and early.

[nhbubba]

No joke, Chipper's comment has been eating me. Always wanted a beat up old dual sport.

Sat on Jane's DRZ-SM @ Tony's the other day. Nifty toy.

[breakdirt916]

in the words of NESR..."just buy the damn thing already!"

[nhbubba]

Which one? Warming to the idea of a ~$1k beater dual-sport. Like the DR350.

What would I expect to need to replace right away on such a beater? And what would I be looking to do to it to make it rip 80-85% street?

[Chippertheripper]

Tires/chain/sprocks. That's pretty much it, depending on the scoot.

[csmutty]

Tires/chain/sprocks. That's pretty much it, depending on the scoot.

Maybe fork seals and fork oil too. Chip hit the main stuff. The cheap dual sports usually have bulletproof engines and such. Wheel bearings, pivot/linkage bearings, etc are other stuff that could go bad.

[nhbubba]

The DRZ-SM has inverted fancy-pants forks. But the older DR350's are all regular ol' damper rods.. right?

[Chippertheripper]

Yep.

[TripleTaco]

on what these guys ^^^ already said.

I can offer up my own experience for reference as well. Last year I had kind of the same thoughts as you on picking up a cheap older dual sport. I think getting down to that magic $1000 number can be tough but if you wait for the right deal you can get there (or close). Last fall I picked up a 96 DR350 SE for $1200. I've got about $350 additional in parts, plus some time cleaning/greasing/lubing ect. The bike is awesome, runs great and is mechanically damn near 100%. Maybe I didnt completely follow the "beater" philosophy but I hate things arent working so Ive got it to a condition i'm comfortable with. Still pretty cheap I think.

The break down looks like this. Fortunately the chain/sprockets and linkage bearings were all pretty good.

-cheap clutch perch/lever assembly $20
-replaced leaking shock with decent used ebay special $80
-carb rebuild kit $40
-ebc clutch kit $80
-grips $10
-rear wheel bearings $30
-battery (chinese ebay special, holding up ok so far) $25
-rear tire $60
-front brake pads $10

Also, inverted forks on the DRZ-SM, conv. damper on the 00-01 DRZ-S, conv. cartridge on the DRZ-S 02-up, and all DR's have conv. damper rod type except 98-99 which have conv. cartridge.

Even these lower power old-ish duals sports are a blast, especially in their proper element. Riding these things in Northern Vermont is some of the most fun Ive had riding.

[nhbubba]

Do non 'S' model DR350's have speedometers? Every image I'm seeing says no.. yet I see plates on some. I know NH requires speedo and odo for a sticker.

I think it'd be fun as hell to have a kick only bike in the stable.

[Chippertheripper]

They may have come with odos, but not speedos.

Just bolt up some pos and roll with it till you spring for a vapor.

[nhbubba]

I'm all out of pos'es here. I'll go out on a limb and say the plated bikes I'm seeing either:
- Have a speedo and it just isn't pictured
- Had a speedo and the seller pulled it before listing
- Never had a speedo and had a friendly inspection guy

Or I don't understand the regs. That could be too.

Are the later (98-99-ish) SE's both kick and electric? Or electric only?
How bad are these things kick only? I'm a big boy, plenty of counterweight on that lever.

[Chippertheripper]

Id choose the third posie.
I'm not certain on the which ones are kick, which ones are both, and which is E only.
See adv thumpers section...

As far as luck starting a thumper like that, it's all technique. You can get it going with minimal effort once you get the hang of it.

[breakdirt916]

S = kick only

Se = electric start

Imho - for a grand, it's hard to be picky...just go with the one in best mechanical condition

Kickstarting the dr350 is relatively easy once you get a feel for what TDC feels like

[nhbubba]

Thanks guys.

I've been looking through ADVRider threads. This one is a good read in particular. But ADVRider is like trying to drink from a firehose sometimes. So much obsolete info, random BS, and downright clutter. Makes this site look buttoned down.

ThumperTalk seems like good info too. Unfortunately that site doesn't load for me sometimes.

I usedta ride a CB400 that had both electric and kick start. It was nice to have both. And it was pretty easy to kick start it. But it was a twin.

http://burlington.craigslist.org/mcy/4090468240.html - $900, older-S, some extras, not local
http://nh.craigslist.org/mcy/4055800453.html - $1500, non-S, extras, fugly.. shocked he has a sticker for it, but he says he does, local-ish
http://boston.craigslist.org/nos/mcy/4123138155.html - $900, sounds like non-S, no photos, "needs some work", more local
http://worcester.craigslist.org/mcy/4104968474.html - $1700, newer, SE? maybe? not local

I'm more of a street guy. Wouldn't saving for a DRZ-SM be a better move? Something like this.

http://nh.craigslist.org/mcy/4098543563.html

Still not confident I can actually put a non-street machine to much use. Suppose I can flip it next season if I don't like it..

[maxim_X]

Once you ride off-road you will quickly learn if it's for you. Also, resale will likely net you little or no loss. Go for it dude, what's the worst that could happen? You get hooked and wind up with a ktm in the spring or you sell the dr.

[Phat Twin]

I'm all out of pos'es here. I'll go out on a limb and say the plated bikes I'm seeing either:
- Have a speedo and it just isn't pictured
- Had a speedo and the seller pulled it before listing
- Never had a speedo and had a friendly inspection guy

Or I don't understand the regs. That could be too.

Are the later (98-99-ish) SE's both kick and electric? Or electric only?
How bad are these things kick only? I'm a big boy, plenty of counterweight on that lever.

If your looking for electric start, a DRZ is the way to go. However, that being said, most DRZ's have electric start ONLY. No back up kick. Thats a deal breaker in my book if you are thinking about off road. Little water in the carb, and you'll beat that little battery into submission in no time. Back up kick is always good, cuz off road its hard to find an easy area to do a bump start. Since I've met you at TTD, and you being a stout individual, buy something like a early XR250 or 400, as they are bullet proof, (much like the DR's are) and maintenance is minimal. It's a Honda after all.

My first DB was an XR250, great learning experience, and they are TRACTORS. Will climb anything you point them at as long as you can stay on the bike. If you like getting dirty, then buy a better off road bike, like late 90's KTM or early 2000 WR's. Both are reliable, and will be a great bike to grow into.

Last winter I bought a 99 WR400 for cheap money, totally stripped it down, repainted and rebuilt the motor, bought new plastics and just had fun learning about it. Money into the suspension is a must for us big guys, buy new springs and internals, and then dial it in.

Regarding speedo's, buy a Vapor unit for $100, and be done. Fortunately you live in NH, so all you need is a rear brake switch, a left hand mirror, and a fishing air horn zip tied to the handlebars for inspection. You don't need a speedo for inspection. They don't care if you get a ticket being blissfully unaware of your speed. I can hook you up with my mechanic, he's concerned about safety items only, and will get you stickers.

Any questions let me know.

[nhbubba]

I love dirt roads on the 'strom. So signs say I might have a problem. Hopefully not a problem of KTM proportions.

[nhbubba]

Phat. Tell me more about Honda dual-sports. What is the equivalent of the DR350? A 250 4-stroke seems a bit on the small side for me. I need/want it to do 60-70 in a pinch.

Mike had an WR250 DS. I didn't get to ride it, but thought it was the shit. The WR's seem too intense though, especially maintenance. I'm willing to trade performance for easy maintenance and moar bulletproofness.

Chip's recent post of the DR350 really got the gears rolling. The more I read, the more I think this bike is my speed. Simple. Bulletproof. Cheap. Not too intense, but enough performance for both street and very mild dirt. I'm talking forest roads and class 6 roads here. Won't see me at any MX parks.

You don't need a speedo for inspection. They don't care if you get a ticket being blissfully unaware of your speed. I can hook you up with my mechanic, he's concerned about safety items only, and will get you stickers.

Regs say you need a speedo and odo. See PART Saf-C 3232 MOTORCYCLE INSTRUMENTATION: http://www.gencourt.state.nh.us/rule...saf-c3200.html

Now if you have a guy.. well. I have a guy too. Unfortunately he's getting spooked by threats from the state. They've warned him (and every mechanic state wide I hear) that they are cracking down on slapping stickers on vehicles that don't meet the letter of the law. Even the didly shit stuff.

It looks/sounds like the non-S dirt version of the DR350 only came with a little odometer, no speedo. I'm now of the opinion that the guys selling street plated non-S DR's know a guy.

Meh. Vapors aren't that expensive. I was going to buy one for the SV project anyway.


Still can't tell if the E models are kick ONLY or kick AND e-start.

[Chippertheripper]

I'd take a crack at either the 2nd or third for cheap money.
Offer something silly. The second needs side panels to look stockish again. The third (needs work) but who knows what that actually means. A carb rebuild with a fresh set of rubber bits/needle valve would probably cure most ails. Spend the extra $$ for an oem needle if so. Just take my word for it.

Again, it's a dirtbike, it doesn't have to be pretty. Shouldn't be pretty IMO.
And the yearning for a real woodsy weapon that will come isn't a "problem". You'll need to keep the dr for beer and beef jerky runs, and pick up a smoker by next fall. It's a pretty well established pattern.
Good thing is, you can do all that for pretty reasonable $.

[TripleTaco]

I think this has mostly been said but I'll clarify. 90-93 DR350's came in two variants, DR350(dirt) and DR350S(street). Both of these models are kick only. The street version has full speedo/tach ect., the dirt has just an odometer I believe. 94-99 DR350's again came in two variants, DR350 (dirt, kick start) and DR350SE (street, e-start). And again the street version has full gauges, the dirt has just odometer. No DR350 ever came with both e-start and kick start, unless you find an SE model that someone has added the kicker to. Also, just like the DRZ and some other bikes the street models come with a CV carb and the dirt only models come with a pumper carb.

I did look at a kick only model on CL once. Staring it was pretty awkward for me but I had zero experience starting big fourstrokes and using a decomp lever. I'm short too, so that doesn't help. I hear getting the jetting right and following a procedure is the key to kicking successfully. If you've got the leverage and the will to figure it out I suspect it'll work out fine.

I'll bet the DRZ-SM feels much more at home on the street but the DR isn't bad at all. If your really looking for an SM, well the DR isn't it but it is all around fun. I think it's worth a shot for you.

The one in worcester looks to be an SE for sure. I like the one in VT. It looks pretty well together for $900.