street legal 2-strokes

[carsick]

And only one of each? Amateur..

I know, right?

[IMG][/IMG]

[Imbeek]

The underside of those front fenders look yucky. Did you not instruct one of the servants to wash them for the photo?

[TheIglu]

5 bikes, 4 front wheels?

Something seems amiss.

[breakdirt916]

The last bike tho

[carsick]

The underside of those front fenders look yucky. Did you not instruct one of the servants to wash them for the photo?

I thought the snow did a fine job after leaving them out all winter.

5 bikes, 4 front wheels? Something seems amiss.

Only 4 motors too. There's 8 wheels with tires on the rack.

The last bike tho

Green with envy I see.

[breakdirt916]

Good news: cylinder is almost done and shipping tomorrow!

Bad news: checked the invoice before calling back w' my CC info, and it's just a cylinder re-plate/repair - no porting!!

I remember very clearly putting that on my order form, so I talked to the tech to see if they could change it before shipping, but he said it's pretty much done and too late...ugh. I really, really wanted a ported cylinder

so I will likely just send off one of the other cylinders so that I can just run whatever my heart desires. Seems most of the work so get done (forks, engine rebuild) has some sort of hiccup, so I am getting used to it

Just bought a piston/gasket kit - $138 + tax/shipping = $162. So top end (including cylinder replate/repair) is just under $500 for parts; and definitely re-pairable at home. Just need to replace mine before they blow up and just do the piston annually, and maybe cylinder every 5 years.

[breakdirt916]

hot baby mama

my take on the cylinder:
-holy crap clean AF
-they don't just re-plate the inside, it looks like they powder coat or paint(ish) the outside
-the inside looks nice...super cleaned up and nicely prepped with clean cross hatching

-going to re-use the box/packaging to mail back another cylinder for porting

still on the fence about running this "stock" cylinder or just having it as a backup and waiting for a ported one...gotta do my shock and wait 3 weeks for the bottom end to get done anyhow

also @Kurlon/whomever

the instructions that shipped with the cylinder said "run the threads with a tap"

1.) so...seriously? I should run a tap through all the cylinder head stud threads? can't I just gingerly put in a bolt?

2.) and any idea how much it's worth if I just fleabay this thing? I got it from eBay for $101 and paid $302 repaired and shipped. So $403 is a break even but frees up funds to repair and port the other cylinder

[Kurlon]

Your cylinder wasn't repainted, it was chemically stripped and etched, then hit with a resist for the final nikasil lining stage. Yes, run a tap lightly through the cylinder stud threads to clean up any cruft that built up in them. I also use a touch of neversieze on the studs when reinstalling.

You can try eBaying it but I don't think you'll get your costs back. Worth a shot though. Or, run it, it's not like it ran bad with stock porting right?

[number9]

the instructions that shipped with the cylinder said "run the threads with a tap"

1.) so...seriously? I should run a tap through all the cylinder head stud threads? can't I just gingerly put in a bolt?

I would use a thread-cleaning tap (aka thread-chasing tap) and not a regular thread-cutting tap.

Here is an example of what I mean, it's from ARP so it's big money but there are loads of inexpensive options out there.

[breakdirt916]

ran fine with stock porting, but I'm adding the WR transmission, so I'd like to adjust the power delivery of the cylinder to better match it...plus I do quite a bit more street/desert/trail riding than MX

k, will clean up the threads before putting in cylinder studs

I threw a post on TT to see what it's worth...but at the risk of losing a lot of money on it, I may just keep it for later

[typeone]

...plus I do quite a bit more street/desert/

keep it

[number9]

Your cylinder wasn't repainted, it was chemically stripped and etched, then hit with a resist for the final nikasil lining stage. Yes, run a tap lightly through the cylinder stud threads to clean up any cruft that built up in them. I also use a touch of neversieze on the studs when reinstalling.

I wish more people used anti-seize when putting things together. Especially when they're subjected to harsh operating conditions!

[breakdirt916]

just thought of something - the "B" motor has a clean/working crank - I may just put this top end on the other motor, move the lighting coil, then drop off the "A" motor with gears at the shop for the rebuild and swap...on a leisurely time schedule (cuz don't most shops always need a month or so extra time anyways?)

that way I can get to riding sooner...then just throw in the wide ratio bottom end/tranny later this season



eek...I have a tap and die kit but I don't want to cut the threads if I don't line it up correctly

[Kurlon]

When you run the tap in, be gentle and go slow. You'll be able to feel if you're off and cutting instead of just knocking the grit out. If it takes any force STOP.

[breakdirt916]

well, one of my forum ride reports got copied/pasted in the District 37 AMA dual sport newsletter!



oh man, oh man...I really need to get my 2t running again...been working OT/property managing takes up my full days off blaaahhhh

[breakdirt916]

Dirt Bike Tours in Southern California - Coyote Trail Adventures

so these guys are offering a full package for LAB2V...

-prepped bike rental x2 days with desert tank (range: CRF250X, XR400R, CRF450X, 525EXC)
-hotel x3 nights
-2 experienced desert riders that live in Palmdale - 1 leads, 1 sweep
-chase truck with enclosed trailer to carry any of your gear bags/luggage
-spare bike included if yours breaks down
-ride back to Vegas

I spent *way* more than that for hotels + bike prep + gas + plane ticket back to LA after dropping truck in Vegas + uber home...and I was lucky to have a buddy who's wife was willing to chase truck...I still spent more!

seriously, the more I see these "rental" options out there, the less I want to own stuff and have to pay the reg/insurance/maintenance on them. I've already had the "experience" of preparing for the ride...nowadays my eye brows raise at just riding it without the work

maybe when I'm older, living off passive income investments, and traveling the world...I'll just stop in LA to do the ride and pay the company for the rest.

[breakdirt916]

watching moto 4 right now...I really do need to fix this bike

spewing money into & running a few rentals and working a lot (currently doing 10 days straight ) just not enough money or time...seems like everything I *want* to do is $500-$1,000/time

here are my contemplated options:

1.) slap the plated cylinder on my b-motor (crank spins)...move the stater over...run it. = cheapest. Questionable crankshaft situation for LAB2V.
2.) sell the non-ported/recently re-plated cylinder on ebay - can't be worth more than $150ish...then send other cylinder back to millennium and write a zillion notes zip tied all over to ask for it to get ported. Pull the motor out, drop it off with the WR gears, have them split the cases/rebuild the crank, install the WR gear set and any bearings in there. Guaranteed crank situation. New porting. WR trans. feels like new bike!!

I really want #2

[Kurlon]

What's the story on the A motor again? Been too long, I've forgotten.

[breakdirt916]

A motor OEM - came with bike

B motor - used - $100 craigslist deal. Who knows what shape it's in.

A motor - In 2015 I did top end, pinched cylinder head gasket during re-install, leaking coolant into cylinder, burned off coolant, was in Vegas (100+ heat) on freeway and engine blew up. Had it fully rebuilt by former kawi service tech. Guy took forever and kept claiming millennium lost the cylinder. Did LAB2V and rode 1-1/2 years with rebuilt motor. Early 2017 lost coolant when on street when mid pipe made contact and wiggled radiator hose clamp loose. Did not fully top off fluid after (should have done drain-refill). Went to desert, over heated, blew up motor (hole in piston). Thar she stands...

[Kurlon]

New top end on B motor, tear the A motor down and only salvage if it's not crazy to do so. IE cases are good, crank isn't complete toast, etc. If it's viable, THEN send the buggered top end out for a (bore, maybe?) port and plate while the bottom end gets R&R'd.

[breakdirt916]

but eek...almost 2 months until LAB2V & I haven't even pulled the original motor for a bottom end

I will be working alternate weekends...so that leaves me 5 weekends off...

2 stroke squad goals:
weekend 1: pull out damaged motor, strip down to bottom end for drop at inside line moto. Request they only do bottom end + WR transmission installation
weekends 2 & 3: swap YZ swing arm out for WR swing arm/kickstand, rear shock re-build?, new chain/sprockets, new rear tire with UHD tube, new dirt helmet, vforce reeds, new gopro helmet mount...blah blah everything in between
weekend 4: shake down run, figure out any issues, last chance to fix
weekend 5: final shake down run

here's to hoping I do it...and it doesn't blow up

[breakdirt916]

Well, weekend 1 just passed and I spent it partying, drinking, dancing, bbq'ing, watching football, and surfing. Was a fun weekend

Will move my weekend duties to Wednesday...

Mr. Kurlon - I read on the intarweb that the lectron carb can be good for an extra 8-12mpg

Can you confirm this? If so - are they only available for $400+ built to order?

[Kurlon]

I have no means of comparing fuel use before / after. Before I was running a thoroughly thrashed and worn out round slide Mikuni VM36 at putt putt pace in the woods. I'm now running a 38mm billet SmartCarb aiming for perf over efficiency, and only beating it on the track. I've no idea how much fuel the bike would use with a standard carb in this role so... no idea.

I know at the brochure the SmartCarb in particular is supposed to net a fuel efficiency gain plus a power boost, this is from better, finer fuel atomization. Weather or not the standard leccy does as well, dunno. I believe cast SmartCarbs are on the market now at or under $400, and the billets are much cheaper than they used to be, $600ish instead of $850 when I initially got mine. If going for fuel efficiency, go for a 36mm unit. You'll sacrifice a tiny bit of top end rip, but should have a meatier mid range, and as noted it should sip gas better. Meanwhile I intend to test a 40mm one of these days to see just what is hiding on top on my motor.

[breakdirt916]

So far issues
-my gearwrench 14mm won't fit in the cylinder studs...walked over to autozone and bought one
-the shift lever is loose...but won't come off
-I am putting nuts and bolts back in where I can...somehow some are stuck/dirty...or worse stripped when they came out

What's left:
-remove cylinder base nuts, take off cylinder, piston, and remove th last 3 bolts (including swingarm pivot) and she should come out

I am setting aside the tools I am using to take apart, and will only leave those in my LAB2V toolkit

Eating a burrito to get energy up...just

[breakdirt916]

Wicked pissa



Somehow I took a 1hr lunch, left to buy a wrench, talked to my Mom for 30 mins, hand washed the motor, zip lock BAGGER each part, and cleaned everything up/put away tools in under 4 hours

Headed to shop for them to do bottom end...

edit:

why drive to the shop when you can ride?



love working on bikes instead of cars...