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REVELATION:
I ran that bigger dome head for 2-3 years and I didn't even realize it
ebay title: "1993 YZ250 cylinder head with good dome"
^^ this pic was from 2017 when I had the motor rebuilt
I had no idea when I took that pic they were different
so yeah...you guys are right.
just send it
but now I'm very curious if this head + woods port would have been a good combo.
weird thing is I feel like the higher compression heads have a wee bit more low end
Last edited by breakdirt916; 09-18-21 at 11:00 AM.
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1994 Yamaha YZ250 CA Street Legal 2-smoke :smoke:
ahh, back to "normal"
low compression head FTW
smoother off the line - you can just gently roll on + let out the clutch with minimal to no feathering
it made the bike behave 10% less "jerky"
easier to just "cruise" 40-55mph on pavement to Cook's Corner; off the pipe
(4.5 miles, 11 min ride)
was a hot one today too...93-102 while I was out
after 25ish mins of 55-65mph it fluttered around 175, and parked engine off like this:
not a single overflow drop
I like it!
now follow me:
-experiment with timing adjustments
-11oz Flywheel weight
-Keihin PWK36 or Smartcarb (currently a Mikuni 38mm flat side)
is that the ultimate trail tune for a '94 YZ250 2-stroke without compromising longevity?
I'm also tempted not to futz with it as-is
I may just add the coolant reservoir for insurance, then move on to ergonomics and cosmetic
Last edited by breakdirt916; 09-22-21 at 06:33 PM.
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1994 Yamaha YZ250 CA Street Legal 2-smoke :smoke:
I'm a big fan of coolant reservoirs, not much of a reason to not run them unless you're shaving grams off the bike for competition? On the carb front, I'm a lil torn, on one hand the Smartcarb did big things for my 92, that bike fires up hot, cold, no questions, no excess kicks, every time. On the flip side it replaced a W O R N out Mikuni VM36 so it didn't have a high bar to clear to be better. I have a 36mm SmartCarb new in the box that I bought for my 150 SX to replace the 'horrible' Mikuni on it and... I can't find fault with it. I'd say if the bike is behaving, I don't know as I'd suggest throwing that money at the bike for what may not be much of an upgrade?
yup, I do remember how clapped out the VM36 was for you...so the gradient likely equivalent to running a worn out tire to a new one. They always feel better.
and maybe if it ain't broke, there ain't a real need to fix it...for $600
maybe I'll consider a SC if I was planning to replace the Mikuni anyways
priority re-arrangement:
-post ride maintenance (air filter clean/oil, chain clean/adjust, fastener check)
-coolant reservoir
-hour meter
-compression test
-ignition timing adjustments (likely need to re-advance after I slowed it down before)
-cosmetics
-ergonomics (bar risers + tall seat)
-mail out [woods ported cylinder + head] to EG for cylinder inspection/repair and/or hone + head work for squish band adjustment
still *very* curious if the woods port just needed a big ole' dome for a head and been alright. Advance the ignition to make it wind up a little more quickly, then just add a flywheel weight. Boom. As good as I'd get.
also - the good news is, I went 3 years on a cylinder, just did a hone, and now running the same cylinder again
as long as the bike isn't overheating, not running a high compression cylinder, a new piston/rings + hone every 3 years isn't a lot of maintenance
I just need to be extra careful for air filter cleanliness and I can probably safely go years
tentative zip on Sunday evening![]()
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1994 Yamaha YZ250 CA Street Legal 2-smoke :smoke:
Hah, in my case it was more like replacing a three time plugged, weather cracked, worn to the cords tire in the wrong size with a brand new knobby.I seriously think a windex bottle loaded with premix would work better than that old carb.
good to hear she's runnin' smooth ! carb talk reminded me i have a TMX38 oval slide w/RM needle and Hall's tweaks if either of you is interested. comes with a spare rebuild kit and divider plate as well. it's just sitting on a shelf.
Beta 200RR
did a quickie after work Sunday
rode w' out earplugs, and man is the engine noisy
at certain RPM's it just vibrates
but finally getting some cooler temps
she definitely runs a little smoother when it's cooler
55-65mph cruising was no prob w' the 13/49 gearing too...*just* enough for me to ride from home to the local spot (17 miles/30 mins of pavement)
hoping to get a ride in every 1-2 weeks again![]()
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1994 Yamaha YZ250 CA Street Legal 2-smoke :smoke:
did a 1 hour ride after work to get sanity back after work
man that Baja designs low/high beam works very well in the dark ass canyons
definitely next step: sit down and inspect the bike's fasteners. It's possibly vibrating something loose a little more than usual.
getting a little dark too early for after work rides though....ugh...I liked midweek dirt rides...maybe track under the lights?
power valve is definitely working - bike picks up!
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1994 Yamaha YZ250 CA Street Legal 2-smoke :smoke:
Breakdork916: I need to do more maintenance and put on an hour meter before riding again.
Also Breakdork916: 100 mile desert ride![]()
Was itching to ride this weekend so badly that I had the bike loaded with gear on Thursdaya Buddy offered to join, so we did our usual loop. 100 miles of open desert trails, mostly hard pack, some rocky hill ridges, a long sand wash, whoops, ruts, and some desert roads
Bike: pro’s: started and ran great! Highest coolant temp on the radiator cap was only 175ish. At one point (5th gear/40ish mph) it even dropped to 140high today during the ride was 89 and it was fine.
Cons: it “skips” a fire when on the pipe WOT and blasting through the gears when it’s wide open. It almost feels like a minuscule “miss”. Jetting and plug match what I ran before, but my timing was retarded and not corrected. I will start with the proper timing as a baseline, then go to spark plug and jetting if necessary. Once it’s all good, add a flywheel weight.
Engine is still a little noisy for vibration at a certain RPM. Whatevs I think I had this before. Send it.
Riding position is still a little cramped while standing - bar risers should help.
Battery may have gotten disconnected when I cleaned the air filter.
one or the seat bolts backed out the last 2 rides. Threads in the subframe may be stripped, or I may need to put some loc Tite on it
Last edited by breakdirt916; 10-03-21 at 05:49 PM.
Skipping, or detonating? Pull the plug, take a peek with a boreoscope and make sure things are happy in there.
On the seat, drill out the frame, helicoil. Had to do both sides on mine.
Last edited by Kurlon; 10-03-21 at 05:52 PM.
Damn, I don’t have anything heli coiled, so I guess it is time
Forests are cooling down...reminds me of fall on the east coast
Man is that bike fun in the crisp cooler weather
Prob gonna do a night ride Sunday after work then use Tuesday as a full day off for wrenching and inspection and ignition advancement
edit: taillight LED is bouncing around in the assembly
I may try to glue it, but it may be time for a new taillight
Last edited by breakdirt916; 10-10-21 at 12:24 PM.
passed out Sunday after work
but another forest road re-opened after 3 years, so I thought I'd check it out today instead
views were ok, but meh...it wasn't worth driving 55 miles for 11 miles of dirt road. There's another forestry entrance 17 miles from me.
it was, however, kind of neat to see the peak (where those radio towers are) from the other side
^^usually I'm looking down from up there^^
some small sections of the road had the east-coast feel to it
the last 5 miles were 40ish mph pavement
^^ not bad
tentative scout ride this Saturday at Ocotillo Wells
planning a 40-50ish mile loop around a State Vehicular Recreation Area w' points of interest
front left turn signal stalk broke![]()
I can't have ANY dual sport bits near any moving parts or it eventually breaks. The plate can't be under the fender, no turn signals near the front brake line, no speedo stuff on the forks, etc.
Edit: I need to order:
-2nd air filter
-extra OEM O ring head gaskets before checking the top end again
-new front turn signals
-flywheel weight
Last edited by breakdirt916; 10-14-21 at 01:45 PM.
Saturday Ocotillo Wellllllssssssss
3 hours of driving
it's a fairly large sized SVRA, but all the "main roads" or sand washes with groups of SxS and kids on dirt bikes whizzing at you
the fun stuff for dirt bikes are in the hills...
I just wished I knew where all the "good hills" were so I could link them together
main roads link you to points of interest
^^ the "pumpkin patch"
ridge riding through the hills on a small bike is rad
it was 90-93 and dry, and riding solo (with a satellite SOS) I still felt stressed out
up on a hill, the bike didn't start...so I bump started to get going
and on the long sand washes, I was worried the bike was "losing power" and the coolant temps were creeping into the 190-200 range
bike made it back to camp, and it could be that:
-long sand washes are hard on bikes
-being WOT in 5th and on/off the pipe will creep up coolant temps
-90-93 is somewhat of the upper limit to sand riding...it's going to run the bike pretty hot
I'm going to do a coolant drain/fill, top end inspection, and plug check tomorrow to be sure
but man that stress was not a good feeling. Super hot days may just be best in elevation within the forests (cooler up there), shorter rides, or coastal street bike rides on the 690
not sure I'd go back to Ocotillo anytime for dual sport riding when there's great high desert riding 2 hours from me. SVRA's are great when you have a group with mostly OHV's/SxS's, and camping out
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1994 Yamaha YZ250 CA Street Legal 2-smoke :smoke:
Your bike has a radiator cap that keeps the pressure above 14psi, 200 deg isn't boil over, so I wouldn't be overly concerned about the temps you hit.
Friend of mine just did a fully street legal KTM300XCW-TPI or whatever the whole nomenclature is for that oil injected/fuel injected 2 stroke. Got a set of Warp 9 and Q3+ for track days and pavement fun, along with a larger front rotor and smaller from sprocket. Then goes back to the dirt set up for, the dirt or street/trail. Guessing his next step is dual sport tires.
2013 ZX6R-636
300 TPI is a perfect 10! Best dirt bike ever!
Wish I could CA plate that...alas not in my lifetime.
Good news @Kurlon - you are correct! 200 was not boiling temps:
(Full capacity 1.2L)
Piston had some carbon build up:
Did not look like any hot spots though...so detonation issue is solved
Cylinder head came out with a oil film, but it wiped right off.
Cylinder also looked generally ok:
Vertical lines are smooth to the touch. No snagging. Cross hatching still present.
This is good news! Everything looks generally good!
I still need to advance the timing but forgot my impact driver and flywheel holder tool at my other storage unit. D’Oh!
I also couldn’t button everything up anyways since the inner O-ring deforms during every tear down.
Might as well order spare inner and outer rings for insurance.
Alright then. No riding this weekend...next ride sometime next week.
Might as well clean the carb, new plug, new air filter, radiator Louvers to hold a coolant reservoir, clean the chain, and hand clean the bike.
Last edited by breakdirt916; 10-20-21 at 06:32 PM.
i don't like to reuse o-rings but if they're recently fresh, sometimes a little grease will hold them in place while you reassemble.
spares are always good to have.
Beta 200RR
yeah I bought four
seems like cheap insurance knowing it's sealed tight
and knowing the OEM gaskets expand under heat means it will seal even better after it's all snugged up
the tusk gasket looked exactly the same shape as when they it went in
went ahead and ultra sonic zapped the carb
and started "clean" with a 2 filter system
bike is still a wee bit harder to start w' the low compression head
took another ride
it's 98% good, but 2% of the time with sudden WOT it "skips" (?) a spark or misses for part of a second. It's not a completely smooth WOT/on the pipe behavior
at least I know it's not a dirty carb...test each system at a time
maybe a new plug
maybe advance that ignition back forward since I retarded it before to battle the detonation
ONCE THAT'S ALL AT 100%...then I'll start tinkering with cosmetics, and a FWW
I'd really like to see how it changes the bike when riding here:
I was always too scurred to try the nearby ST...but I did aight
it's all 1st gear mid rpm's, I stopped once or twice. lots of stress/forearm grip
Last edited by breakdirt916; 11-03-21 at 03:40 PM.
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1994 Yamaha YZ250 CA Street Legal 2-smoke :smoke:
finally got a chance to advance the ignition
no rhyme or reason; no dial gauge, just twisted the stator forward
and it helped
starts a wee bit easier, on the pipe the power delivery felt more "full"
little bit more low end power too
it did not help here:
you never get out of 1st or you'll overshoot...constantly wobbling bars left/right to find balance
guess I just need more practice...ish is stressful...one foot was down 4-5 times
got into one pickle at a rocky uphill road...got stuck and wiggled my way out while bike was idling
lesson here: if you're stuck, and just wiggling your way with your feet/bars (no engine), just shut the bike offit's not that hard to start
couple drips
but once I got going, coasting down the mountain:
also, most of CA: guardrails here, guardrails there, we have guardrails everywhere
also CA:
"we're low on funds and can't build a guard rail at this location"
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1994 Yamaha YZ250 CA Street Legal 2-smoke :smoke:
did a general inspection for a 100 mile ride tomorrow
-5-6ish rear spokes were loose, 3 of them kept spinning without tightening
-the oil drain plug needed 1/8" turn to get torqued to spec...hmm
-tank shroud bolts needed a re-snugging
-the air filter didn't look too bad after 2 local rides:
it's hard for me to believe that the dirt from 4 of these local rides + 20 miles of the Mojave road destroyed the 690
something is definitely up w' that KTM
that rivit spooges a little
so I wiped it down...will check post-ride to measure the spooge rate
never did that until I had the can re-packed - anyone know if I can I put a dab of sealant in there?
decided to try a fresh plug to see if it cleans up the wind up "miss"
couldn't really tell on pavement...will find out tomorrow
we're also running race radios tomorrow instead of Cardo for the range since there are repeaters out there...ugh...wires
next steps:
-surface mount signals onto headlight
-coolant reservoir (I didn't see any raditor louvers?)
-flywheel weight
-new plastics + graphics
-custom rear plate mount on top of the edge of the rear fender, angled down
-moose rear fender tail pack- move most of my tools here, so I'll have a relatively flat tail pack that doesn't bop me in the butt
-dirtbikegear.com's front fender tube bag
-mail the woods ported cylinder + head to EG
-rox risers
-hand guards
-figure out which company made my skid plate and find a hardware kit for it.
-mail woods port to EG w' a cylinder head so it can be milled for pump gas w' out detonation
-time to service the 19" rear wheel - it needs a new tire, but consider getting the loose/broken spokes fixed, trued, new bearings + nitro mousse
-new front tire - I may go back to a Motoz tractionator. They lasted a super long time...maybe pair this with a mousse
Last edited by breakdirt916; 11-13-21 at 01:16 AM.
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1994 Yamaha YZ250 CA Street Legal 2-smoke :smoke:
Usually you smear some rtv around the pipe where you re-rivit it to seal it up after repacking.
^ +1
Beta 200RR
70ish mile ride?
dunno if you can hear it:
it's almost like a stutter...only when WOT on the pipe
otherwise the day was friggin great
got stuck on one 1 hill climb
does this look hard packed?
nope, it was loose rocks almost like thick sand. Back tire started digging when I got around here
I still want the bike to be better on low rpm rocky hill climb ish.
Desert season is![]()
Last edited by breakdirt916; 11-17-21 at 01:56 PM.
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1994 Yamaha YZ250 CA Street Legal 2-smoke :smoke: