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+1 for MME levers, one of my fav mods. great feel.
Beta 200RR
Just put gas in it and ride lol.
-Christian LRRS/CCS HasBeen ECK Racing
2011 Pit Bike Race CHAMPION!
Hahaha yes. Oil that bitch upppp!
-Christian LRRS/CCS HasBeen ECK Racing
2011 Pit Bike Race CHAMPION!
Cliff's Cycles KTM
NETRA enduro B-vet
Close your eyes, look deep in your soul, step outside yourself and let your mind go.
-Christian LRRS/CCS HasBeen ECK Racing
2011 Pit Bike Race CHAMPION!
Haha if I wanted a 450 Id keep my crf instead of selling it!
-Christian LRRS/CCS HasBeen ECK Racing
2011 Pit Bike Race CHAMPION!
This should work, right?
https://www.rockymountainatvmc.com/p...er-Guard?v=171
At this point I'm more focused on all my contact points and protection. Seat feels ok. Shift lever is difficult for me, the nub on it that was knurled has been worn down. Rear brake feels good, easy to get to. And I need to take a evening and pull the levers to see where all the vertical play is coming from. I do like the feel of the ASV levers. Feel like mountainbike brakes.
Last edited by bryco13; 08-14-15 at 08:44 PM.
Yerp.
Cliff's Cycles KTM
NETRA enduro B-vet
Close your eyes, look deep in your soul, step outside yourself and let your mind go.
if you find they're pretty worn, just grab a few plastic washers to shim them for now (thin, thin, only 1 per side), use some nice grease and don't over tighten. that will give them some more life while you get acquainted with the bike. it may very well be just dirt bike stuff... levers tend to be pretty floppy compared to street or even MTB stuff. it's no biggie.
Beta 200RR
And I thought I had ocd lol.
-Christian LRRS/CCS HasBeen ECK Racing
2011 Pit Bike Race CHAMPION!
Beta 200RR
I wanted to try a longer shift nub, but don't see much out there. I may try the Dremel route. OCD is definitely an issue with me. The fender has a crack in the middle, it's orange with a black insert. Does that get orange zip ties or black? These are things that keep me up at night, lol.
wow...I missed a lot!
just a bit - in regards to an mx 250 - it's actually "milder" than the 65/80/125's because it has much better low end that so much more evenly transitions onto "the pipe"...on the 65/85/125's that hit is HARD
FREE $10 UBER CREDIT W' PROMO CODE --> PON41
1994 Yamaha YZ250 CA Street Legal 2-smoke :smoke:
I love me some 250 2T. Braap.
The older I get the Faster I wuz
When I start my KTM in the morning, rules are broken. Its inevitable...
01 SV650S (RC51 eater)/07 690SM /03 300EXC/14 XTZ1200
TRACKS:Firebird/NHMS/VIR/Calabogie/California Speedway/NJMP/MMC/NYST/Palmer/Thompson/Club Motorsports
I agree 50 to 1 is marine
True Super real Synthetic Oil like Redline could be used at 50 to 1....
Not dino oil or bogus synthetic
plus
A few studies showed that MORE OIL makes More Power until you foul plugs
so
32 or 40 to one would be my guess, I would look for the word ashless Go for the blue cloud
The calculus of hate
It is not that I should win it is that you should lose
It is not that I succeed it is that you fail
It is not that I should live it is that you should die
i split the difference and run 44:1 (Amsoil Interceptor)
Beta 200RR
Depends on the 250... My WR with a heavy flywheel, questionable power valve pull arm and a carb that erred on the side of three times the fuel is always better was just as tame as could be. It could lug down to 0 RPM, and never surprised you.
Then I sorted it out.
Oh shit!
I'm being forced to learn how to wheelie now. 12/39 just doesn't tame it.
On the oil front, the owner's manual for my 09 300 says 60:1 with a good synthetic. I'm running 50:1 BelRay H1R. On the Mistake, it's book calls for 24:1 Yamalube R, or 20:1 if burning bean oil. It was printed in 1993 so, bear that in mind. So far I've been running Yamalube 2R at 32:1 and initial teardown for inspection shows the crank is nice and oily. At Loudon I'll likely go to 24:1 for piece of mind.
Edit: Other fun facts from the 1993 Yamaha service manual - FIM regs required 250s to weigh at least 216lbs without fuel. I need to see if there is a current FIM minimum, might explain why weights really haven't dropped since hitting the 220lb range? Bike is listed at 229lbs fully fueled up and good to go.
Yamaha precision machining: The compression ratio is specced at 9.0 ~ 10.8 : 1. Land anywhere in there, good enough, right?
Last edited by Kurlon; 08-15-15 at 04:41 PM.
Stopped by the dealer today, got a new air filter, asked stupid questions, ended up ordering some KTM "short" levers. I like the solid feel of them, the ASV's are the pivoting type, which is why I was getting so much movement. Going to try these. My goal on Tuesday is to put in new oil and filter, just to start fresh. Oh, probably gonna pick up a trailer as well.
Dirty bike question in regards to my WR250R. She's a big girl, like 295# big. Here's my thought, the new toy weighs in at just over 200#, and something like the crf250x comes in at 255#. Is there any way to remove that 40 pounds to make it comparable? I know to be better in the woods I'll need off road rubber and a bigger ring out back. Both of which won't reduce much weight. Any thoughts on what could be done, or just ride a 300 pound dirt bike?
Oh, and in case anyone was wondering, the 2016 KTM 200 xc-w weighs in at 220. Just sayin.
Cliff's Cycles KTM
NETRA enduro B-vet
Close your eyes, look deep in your soul, step outside yourself and let your mind go.