Chain Question

[highsider]

I am trying to put together a whole dirt wheel setup for the DRZ, and I just bought a set of wheels and tires from a DRZ E (mine is an SM).

I know I will need new rotors for the new wheels, because the SM rotors are considerably larger, and the caliper brackets dont line up. And I dont feel like changing brackets around every time I want to switch from dirt to street.

I also think I'm going to need two chains. The sprocket on the new wheels I bought is HUGE. This is good, because I want low gears for the dirt riding. But, my chain is not going to fit.

How do I know what size chain to get? Can you count the teeth on the sprocket and guess from that? Or is there some standard size that you use, and just add links as necessary?

Sorry for my ignorance, I have never messed with a chain before.

[R7]

I'm pretty sure when you buy a new chain, it comes standard as a 110 link or a 120 link. Buy the 120 link chain and cut it for a perfect fit

[R7]

Oh yeah, as far as the brakes go, you're best bet is to get a complete master, line and calliper for quick changes. I got my KTM down to a 30 minute swap and gets faster every time

[SQUIZZ636]

get the 120 link. and if you don't mind adjusting it every time you ride you could run a non oring chain to save some money.
lis

[TTD]

120 link and O-Ring is the right move for the dirt.

The non o-ring is false economy.

[oreo_n2]

i dunno... i am not a fan of o-rings for dirt... the o-rings get chewed up too fast from grit in my experience.

[highsider]

Whats the difference between a normal chain and an o-ring chain?

I dont care to be cheap with the whole deal, I plan on keeping the bike for a while, so I want quality parts that are going to last a while.

[TTD]

hmmm... I can't say I've ever noticed a problem with O-rings in the dirt.

I do clean mine after every ride though.



O-ring chain has little rubber rings between the side plates and rollers. These rubber rings are designed to hold in the lubrication which is pre installed into the chain.

With a non- O-ring chain, they always seem to wear out faster ... for me anyhow.

[SQUIZZ636]

well I always used non o-ring when I was racing because I was going thru sprockets so I just got use to using them. When I got an o-ring for my trail bike I didn't feel I got much more out of it. The main diff. I saw was just that I didn't have to adjust it every time be for I hit the trails but for the money I can deal with adjusting the chain because I am already use to doing this any ways. but you can go round and round with this it is personal pref. I think for the most part. If your not good at doing a pre. inspection then get an o-ring (thats the parts girl talking). and as long as you lube your chain (bike chain) every ride you should have no problems.
lis

[SSearchVT]

Would it be possible to get a spacer to go on one of the hubs to make the rotor line up with the caliper and bracket? Changeover would be easy as far as the brakes were concerned.

For the chain - 'O' ring chains are actually better for dirt riding because the rings keep the dirt, mud, and water from getting into the chain. They do take a little more power to spin, and still need to be cleaned and lubed after riding and cleaning.

How much bigger is the sprocket on the dirt wheel? If it is two or three teeth you might be able to use the same chain and adjust it to fit the wheel. You might also want to look at keeping the same size sprocket on the dirt and street wheels, but changing the front sprockets out. One tooth off the front is the same as adding three to the rear. This could help with the adjustments.

Good Luck...

[highsider]

At this point, I think I'm going to just buy this.

I have to use the SM style rotors, because the SM rotors are much larger, and so the bracket is in entirely the wrong spot. I spent $600 on a set of used wheels and tires; the rotors are $325.23 for the pair , plus whatever a chain is going to cost me.

This is starting to be more of a pain in my ass than it is worth....

[SSearchVT]

One cheesy option for the chain would be to break it, get a small length of the same chain and use two clip style master links. When the dirt rim is on, the chain is longer, with the SM rim it's shorter.

Is it possible to mount the larger SM rotor on the dirt hub (do the bolt holes line up)? If they do, but the SM hub is wider then the dirt, get a spacer made (or use stacks of washers - again, cheesy, but good for figuring out how thick to make the spacer) with longer bolts - Grade 8 or so if needed - to line the rotor up with the caliper.