0


so i need to buy a new chain and sprockets. But im pretty lost.
First is the chain: whats the difference between the 520,530, etc. ? i currently have the 520 on my bike. can i put the 520 with an sprockets?
sprockets: i am looking for something pretty rigid that will last a while. i have the vortex ones and the guy that changed my tires said that the vortex ones are nice looking but never lasts long. so what are good ones? and what are the stock teeth on the sprockets on 04 gsxr600? because i think i want to drop 1 gear in the front and maybe either keep the rear stock or up 1....
Don't know the stock sprockets for your bike (google it, I'm too lazy) but it's better to go 1 or 2 up in the rear rather than -1 up front. I'm running -1/+2 supersprox with a 520 (520 is stock for a 636) d.i.d. erv3 chain and have been happy with it so far but do yourself a favor and do a search because there are a shit ton of 520vs525vs530/aluminum vs steel sprocket threads.
Steel Sprockets will last longer, i had a renthal Aluminum in the rear, wore out quick, renthal front sprockets are great and just get a steel rear, something like a sunstar or i beleive JP is another popular brand, as far as chains i love DID chains but there are other good ones out there, if your bike is 520 keep it 520, 525 will last a bit longer but not to much with generic riding
Corey
520 , 525, 530 progressively heavier chain and require diff sprockets for each chain
size
Stick with the 520 , up two on the rear , replace chain and sprockets at same time
Steel sprockets last a longer as does an oring/xring chain. RK, EK , DID etc
Rivet master link my preference but clip style works too if put on right ..easier for track
Sprocketcenterdotcom... where I get my stuff
"It may be that your sole purpose in life is simply to serve as a warning to others"
1990 Honda CBR1000F "Hurricane"
Stock is 16 in front 45 in rear.
difference in 520/525/530 is the width of the sprocket and chain. The thicker the chain the more strain it can typically handle. The gotcha is that by a minor amount, the thicker it is the heavier it is so the more it takes your bike to get it going and the more it takes to stop it from going. More unsprung weight to move.
People make a big deal out of this sometimes. It varies dependent on the length of the chain, but going from 530 to 520 may drop you 2 or 3 pounds. That is all unsprung weight that the engine turns into rotating mass so you may notice a TINY difference. Anyone that tells you that you will gain 5+hp is full of crap unless you happen to have one of those stupid extended swing arms.... and of course you have to remember that like anything, thicker is usually stronger.
Okay, so steel vs aluminum. Your chain is always steel. Your front sprocket is steel as well. Your rear sprocket you can chose steel or aluminum. Steel is heavier. It will add weight to the bike. It isn't a ton, but will be more then the 530vs520 chain difference people blather on about but it is balanced, not drooping when still. Steel is also stronger. It will last longer. The downside again is it is heavier and often more expensive...oh and usually not as pretty
Aluminum sprockets wear faster. Depending on how you ride you may get 4 years or you may only get 1 year. I beat the crap out of mine and get about 2 years but this is vt so call it 18 monthsUpside of aluminum? Cheaper and lighter.
On a side note, your front sprocket is steel for a good reason... someone already alluded to it. The front sprocket is smaller (duh) which means that it deals with a lot more strain then the rear sprocket. Aluminum would never stand up to that abuse in the front. Hence why it is beater to go 2up in back rather than 1 down in front. The front already gets hammered enough. Don't add to it, and don't wear out the chain faster by reducing it's rolling radius around the front sprocket.
So, is the longevity of the steel worth it? Maybe. Really up to you. Odds are if you get steel and beat on it, you will wear out the chain first anyways and anyone that isn't a hack knows you ALWAYS replace sprocket and chain together. The only time I wouldn't bother is if only the front sprocket is bad and the chain and rear are good - which happens. They front is so cheap that who cares? Replace just the front and replace it again when chain and rear are gone.
Personally I run an aluminum sprocket. I have them custom made by sprocket specialist (google them if you want, they make everything). Like I said, they last me and I hammer them - (safe)wheelies, fast take offs etc.
If you can get steel about the same as aluminum I would say go with a 525 chain with a steel sprocket as it is a good balance between a bit lighter and a bit stronger. If aluminum is cheaper go for it! You have a 600 so you won't wear it out too fast I doubt. I wouldn't dare run a 520 on my bike as I would most likely snap it eventually; in your case I would probably avoid it personally but it might be fine.
One last thing. Get a rivet master link. I've seen noobs get the clip style ones cause they are easier. Bad. No. Don't. Evil little things that like to attack legs when they suddenly come unclipped. Also, remember, adjust chain slack with your body weight on the bike (get someone to help). Varies bike to bike, but you usually want about 30-40mm of slack midway of the bottom of the chain between the swingarm pivot point and the rear sprocket. If you aren't sure than looser is better - within reason....if it can hit the swingarm in the middle that is generally bad. Too tight and that is even worse. After you tighten the rear axle nut check it again as they sometimes change slightly when you do... oh, and make real certain you adjust both sides equally in the back. You don't want a crooked rear tire.
Hope this helps, I'm tired so I'm not sure how clear I was or if I gave too much info but good luck man!
Summary - Steel or aluminum, 525. Go up to in back. Leave front alone. Stock is 16/45 so go 16/47 and be sure to specify that you need a chain longer by a link set (you can always cut down but you shouldn't add on).
lol, just saw the post right above mine when I posted :p as I said, always different opinions but I'm sure you'll be fine with whatever you go with.
Oh, and this might help everyone: http://www.gearingcommander.com/
wow thanks for all the information!!! it really does help. i wont be putting it on myself, i think i will have a place do it and get that rivet one.
just two more... think changing the sprockets size will throw off the speedo more than it is now?
and what size do i go for the chain length? what is that based on?
Last edited by JonT; 06-10-10 at 11:40 PM.
On yours it will throw off the speedo more because on those bikes they take the reading off the front sprocket. You can get a 'speedo healer' to take care of this if you want. Allows you to adjust it back to correct.
Chain length is mostly based on the length of your bikes swingarm but of course the size of the rear sprocket matters too. You only can adjust so far back and forth to set the correct slack.
I believe yours will need 110 links. If you go up 2 in the back get 112 links. You will probably end up cutting the extra 2 off but may as well have them to be safe in case you need them. If you cut it off just grind down the pin and then push it out. You can use the tool or just use a nail/punch and set it on a small socket to act as a receiver when you drive out the old pin.
Get a good pair of calipers for measuring the masterlink rivet when you crush it down. Makes it a lot easier then guessing. Just measure what it is before so you have a reality check, then measure one of the already pressed links pins and do your thing. Once the rivet link head has spread a bit more then their links your good to go. Be careful not to go too far and make that part of the chain harder to flex then the rest.
Superlite steel sprockets FTW! Their rear sprocket is as light as the Supersprox and you don't have a riveted sprocket. It's a solid piece of steel.
As for chain, I go with the others and say 520. D.I.D ERV3.
That's a good point. If you're worried about longevity those aren't bad. You could always go real crazy (don't) and get one of these (But don't waste your time with their chains - I've only heard bad things about those.)
In all seriousness here is a good setup for you - Just select your options as this one is specifically for your bike:
http://www.sprocketcenter.com/p/8890...--suzuki-.html
It's a different chain but a good one AND you can get it in colorThey also size the chain for you INCLUDING making sure it matches your gearing setup. So if you go up or down they cut it to match before shipping it so no more quess/math work for oyu.
The ERV3 chain that was recommended is rated for 8250lbs (up to about 750cc) - which is plenty for you. The EK MVXZ in the link above is stronger and only weighs a few ounces more but is rated for 9000lbs (up to 1000cc) so even better....and those numbers ARE for the 520 everyone is recommending.
Like I mentioned before, I won't run a 520 but these guys are right, should work fine on yours. It's common enough
Most chains stretch on the first ride so just check slack after the first ride then periodically of course when you lube it and you should be good to go.
Last edited by yesterdayze; 06-11-10 at 07:45 AM.