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Michelin Pilot Race's will probably do fine, or Dunslop DP208's. SkiierX was tearin ass on those things down at the Gap and he was stuck like glue to the road.
2021 KTM Duke 890 R
2020 BMW R1250GS Adventure Exclusive
1982 Honda CB750F Super Sport
I'm thinking I may just keep my BT-020s and not bother getting super sticky tires.
They have 2500 miles on them... if they don't see a lot more mileage soon I don't really feel like spending all that money for new tires.
I think the 020s are good enough anyway for now. I've got them within a few millimeters of the edge of the tire so they seem like they've got plenty of grip for the track.
Ben
Dunlop 208ZR's!!! ...What do you want to accomplish with this track day? Is it to become a more aggressive/defensive rider on the street? Or to see if racing is something you'd like to pursue? If it's just to get better on your bike and on the street..grab a set of Dunlop 208ZR's and you'll be fine...AND you won't have to worry about warming up yout tyre's before you ride hard. The GP's have a different carcass. You would have to hit a few on/off ramps th warm them up before you pound on em...or you'll slide out like a hot knife through buttaa! Oh, and good luck at the track day bud! You'll have a blast, I promise! Be smooth and predictable and you can't lose bro!
Heath Smith
LRRS/CCS #337
Low Down Racing
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01' YZ426F
05' Reiju RS1
Says Vale to Colin at the end of the 2002 8 Hours of Suzuka: "Ok Colin, you better go out there and win. Because it is the ONLY way we will NEVER have to come here again!"
I was actually runnin 3 year old BT-020's in that video of me draggin a hand down at the Gap. I really can't complain about their grip, even when old and on the wear bars. Impressive feel for such a "milage" tire!
Still like my Pliot Sports bettah though....
2021 KTM Duke 890 R
2020 BMW R1250GS Adventure Exclusive
1982 Honda CB750F Super Sport
Pilot Sport Cups would be your best choice. A very good rain tire, built upon the softer slick carcass. Designed for Eurupeon spec tire racing.
Don't do the Race 2's. They are shit in the rain if you also plan to use them on the street.
Putting his hands in the air, like he just doesn't care.
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Dave - Motorace - Michelin
I'll be scrubbin' in a brandy-new set of 208ZR's meself...![]()
Did you grit your teeth and try to look like Clint Fuckin' Eastwood?
Or did you lisp it all hangfisted like a fuckin' flower?
What ever tires that are your bike, unless of course they are bald. The chances of you riding over the limit of the tires on your first track day (if it is your 1st trackday?) Is marginal. Just remember to de-flate your tires to the right psi before you you even get ont he track. Shit I kinda miss trackdays![]()
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2001 KawasakiKDX 200
"I'll tell you what I tell my girl...Even a broken clock is right twice a day"
Me Too!!!Originally posted by Stoneman
I'll be scrubbin' in a brandy-new set of 208ZR's meself...![]()
Yup, DE-flate. We were running around 30 front and rear. (I think) Degs will tell us... Oh Degsy! Where are you?
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Chris J.
"You're going the wrong way!!!"
"How does he know where we're going?"
03 Aprilia Tuono, 06 Yamaha R6, 16 Yamaha XSR900, 13 VW Touareg
yeah, i'm probably gonna go w/ the 208zr's as well... just gotta find the best price for em
group buy anyone?![]()
-Pete
NEMRR #81 - ECK Racing
Cyclesmith Track Days
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'03 Tuono | '06 SV650 | '04 CRF250X | '24 Aprilia Tuareg
I usually run 30 psi up front, 28 out back for track days. Unless the track day guru's say otherwise...
Did you grit your teeth and try to look like Clint Fuckin' Eastwood?
Or did you lisp it all hangfisted like a fuckin' flower?
Is the low psi just because the tires get real hot and the air will expand in the tire? Or is it a footprint issue?
"You never see a motorcycle parked outside of a psychiatrists office"
Tires need to be at lower pressures for the track because you are, theoretically, riding much harder than on the street. Also, much faster. Faster speeds combined with hard braking makes much more friction which results in pressure build up. Also, you are using more of the overall surface of the tire during cornering and lower pressures allow the tire to more easily conform around the corners.
That is my non-engineer type explaination. I'm sure others may be able to explain in more technical terms. I am but a simple man.
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Clayton is right on! I used a set of Dunlop 208 GP (DOT) take offs down at the gap and loved them, great for $100.00 for the set!!Now, for Tony's trackday on the 11th (if the weather is nice), I will be going with 208GP DOT rear and a 208 GP slick front (I hope it is nice out)! I think there is a huge difference between 208ZR's and 208GP's, and I don't race.
BTW, I run 34 rear and 31 front on the street and will adjust to whatever Degsy suggests for the trackday!
Jamie
Shit dude..Originally posted by Mystery Squid
deflate???? to what? I run the suggested 36/41psi cold.
You will see a huge boost in traction & feel if you reduce those pressures a bit even on the street.
Recommended for me is 36/42 on the Viffer, I am running 32/36 as a compromise. Track 30/30 or so like everyone else says.
You are going to get out on the track and be shocked at how cool it feels, trust me you won't be worried about other riders, and you'll make a ton of progress. You might get a wake up call about how fast you think you are though. You'll think you're flying and one of the track junkies will fly by you on a smaller bike like you were standing still. It is amazing how fast the racers, etc.. are.
Ben
I like black round ones![]()
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So that when you're travelling down the highway at 170mph with full saddlebags and a 200 lb passenger in the middle of July, and your tires explode because you're running them at 30psi, you can't blame the manufacturer because they didn't recommend you run them at that pressure.Originally posted by Mystery Squid
After all, those “Z” rated tires have been tested by the manufacturer, they fully well know the tires are mounted onto race replica bikes and assume an appropriate operation environment, so why “Max PSI 41” on the sidewall?
Me? I'm going to listen to Degsy, Jay, and pretty much every other person on the planet who's ever been fast on a motorcycle and seems to agree that running low 30s is a good base number for the track.
But don't worry, I'm sure you'll debunk all this "misinformation" when you blow by everyone in the blue group with all that horsepower you've saved by running your tires at 40psi. Not to mention how stable and planted your bike will be now that you've removed all the slushiness from the suspension.
Originally posted by Honclfibr
But don't worry, I'm sure you'll debunk all this "misinformation" when you blow by everyone in the blue group with all that horsepower you've saved by running your tires at 40psi. Not to mention how stable and planted your bike will be now that you've removed all the slushiness from the suspension.![]()
Did you grit your teeth and try to look like Clint Fuckin' Eastwood?
Or did you lisp it all hangfisted like a fuckin' flower?
Originally posted by Mystery Squid
You know, I’m not sure I buy this tire deflation thing for the following reasons:
1. You induce drag, rob HP
2. Increase suspension “slushiness”
3. Maybe even overheat the tires given conditions (operation on track)
4. How much more surface area is TRULY acquired via a drop in a handful of psi, and is it even “stickier”?
After all, those “Z” rated tires have been tested by the manufacturer, they fully well know the tires are mounted onto race replica bikes and assume an appropriate operation environment, so why “Max PSI 41” on the sidewall?
What do the racers like Bostrom, Rossi, Yates, etc., use for tires, and at what PSI? Granted they run their bikes probably far harder than any of us will at track day, but at least it will be an indicator.![]()
MS, Z rated tires means that the tire carcas is capable of "Z" speed without ther carcass deforming or blowing apart. the Max 41 psi (cold) means that if you put more air in it, it could blow apart.
The adavantages of the stickyness you get from the heat generated by the lower pressures outweighs any 'friction losses' you may have, that rob horsepower
that being said
if you run Avon Azaros, Avon recomends that you run their recommended pressures rather than thew bike manufactured, (not the max pressure on side of tire, pressure they recommend for your bike and tire is on a chart on their website) and that for every 2 lbs less you will loose 10% of your tire life. I have found that with the Avaro ST, dropping pressure gives you no gains in stickyness
RandyO
IBA#9560
A man with a gun is a citizen
A man without a gun is a subject LETS GO BRANDON
In a nutshell Joe, I was told to do it by those throughly experienced with NHIS. It worked, traction was far superior than street pressures, so I stick to it...
On another note: I'd highly suggest getting a top-notch set of sporty street tires. They'll be MORE than you need for a track day and you'll get far higher mileage outta 'em. And street tires - in my opinion - have better wet traction too...
You'd be amazed at how quickly you'll go through a set of race take-offs on the street in the summer...
Did you grit your teeth and try to look like Clint Fuckin' Eastwood?
Or did you lisp it all hangfisted like a fuckin' flower?
Give me a break, this isn't about questioning, you're just spouting off whatever comes off the top of your head without any experience or empirical data to back it up.Originally posted by Mystery Squid
Wow, who pissed in your corn flakes today?
So what, we're not supposed to question anything anyone with experience says?![]()
Meanwhile you're basically stating that you know better than the people who are up there at LRRS week in and week out, pushing their bikes to limits you and I probably can't even fathom. I mean, we're talking DECADES of motorcycle racing here. You don't think anyone's ever said "gee, I wonder what would happen if I ran at 45psi" before?
Corollary to Joe's question, how much tread depth should you go down to before replacing the tires for a trackday?
I've got about 4000 miles on my set of M1s right now, and from the looks of it I'm going to need to replace the rear at least as it's probably around 25-50% tread depth. The question is, what do I do about the front?
Leave it and slip another M1 on the rear? Seems like kind of a waste because I've still got some street miles left on the rear.
Buy a set of track tires and put the M1s back after trackday? Ugh, this is probably the best solution, but come on, order a second set of tires, lug them somewhere, get them mounted, do one day on them, and then pay a SECOND time to get them swapped again? Yech...
Buy another full set of M1s and keep the front and rear around for a spare? This if I really need to replace that front for trackday along with the rear, I mean it's got 4k on it that should it looks like it has over 50% tread left still, that should be allright right?
joe.. do you know cam_in_ri... he used to be silent1...
ask him about the importance of tire pressure on the track on one of his first TL's.
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I dunno much about bike tires but I'll add some garnish to the plate.
I bought Pirelli Diablo's. When the UPS guy delivered them in Feb ( 30 degrees) they were sticky to the touch.
On a side note. I'd follow experienced track guys WRT: tire pressures, with several EXTRA considerations.
Bike weight. You running the same 600's like most track races, or is your ride something different (pressures, contact patch, tire sidewall stifness etc...........) I know NO one will bring a crusier but I COULD be wrong............
A 375 lbs 700cc vs a 500 lbs 1100cc in my case. Maybe a moped for Kham? lol
Keep in mind that you will be turning, braking and USING your tires at a track event.
You most likely will pick up several (4-7 lbs) -guess from street car on a track- in the front at least.
Ambient temperature.
Cold tires skip, hot: stick to the pavement. So the track surface temperature will greatly affect the tires performance during your sessions.
IF the surface is under the sun and hot, you'll get max performance for a longer time during your session, but if the surface is really hot ~130-150 F, things will get "greasy" under foot.
If you go in or break for lunch and it rains, prepare to expect a whole different track condition.
Ask your instructor for a "wet line" and try it.
Cold tires and track surface need more laps to warm up tires to operating temperature..
-Suf Daddy more cage than bike experience.
Suf Daddy.
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Aug 11th T-D will be my first . Looking at this thread makes me uneasy . I'm going out there to LEARN SOMETHING
. I'll be riding a BMW K12rs , a little big for the track I understand ,, But it is what it is . This thread may suggest to a newbie that its racing and not learning ?????
Per our (Motorace) experience at Loudon we always say 30psi for the front and 28 psi for the rear in the summer.
This goes for H2's/M2's/S2's, Pilot Sports, Pilot Sport Cups or Pilot Powers.
And though we use nitrogen to fill our tires, the psi is the same for regular air.
Just a heads up!
Putting his hands in the air, like he just doesn't care.
Check out my eBay store!
Dave - Motorace - Michelin