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Well my bike is a Cali' model so it came with all that emmisions "junk". I would like to eliminate it all but dont want to just go hacking shit out either. I know that these things must be done prperly or else your just gonna end up with problems.
Any one here know how to go about this lil' project????
Honda (RC26) VFR700
"hey Randy, do a wheelie!!"
I think your talking about the VFR , well there must be some sort of catalayct converter someplace , hack it off and take the rest of it back together and its set. Atleast that's what I've heard you do , but then again I dunno![]()
shouldn't have catcons, just another canister stuffed somewhere in the tail section...
Yeah Im not sure what gangsta was thinking of!?! NO cats or anything. I do have a Black canister located up front with vacum hoses. After talking w/ RandyO Im not sure as to If I even need to go about deleting the emissions. He seems to think that it wont effect my performence nor gas milage![]()
Any thoughts on this TLR????
Honda (RC26) VFR700
"hey Randy, do a wheelie!!"
Originally posted by wastedincome420
Yeah Im not sure what gangsta was thinking of!?! NO cats or anything. I do have a Black canister located up front with vacum hoses. After talking w/ RandyO Im not sure as to If I even need to go about deleting the emissions. He seems to think that it wont effect my performence nor gas milage![]()
Any thoughts on this TLR????
my bad , as I said , I don't know anythnig about bikes lol , I know if you take a cat converter off a car it gains a couple of ponies
all it does is keep gas fumes from escaping into the air. No performance or mileage gains there. If you do remove it, you will loose some weight, that's all.
Who sez you gain a couple of ponies?Originally posted by Gangsta SV
my bad , as I said , I don't know anythnig about bikes lol , I know if you take a cat converter off a car it gains a couple of ponies
Plus it's against the law.......
There are many Cat-cons out there that flow better than most mufflers....Any of the honeycomb type don't restrict as much as the 'Bed' type.
heres a person who replaced it with a straight pipe , gained about 2 hp on the dyno
http://www.geocities.com/MotorCity/5335/testpipe.htm
ya its legal as long as you don't get caught![]()
Originally posted by Gangsta SV
my bad , as I said , I don't know anythnig about bikes lol ,
I think that is pretty obvious.........
I think YOU should leave the "suggestions" to people who know what there talking about then.............
If you need help then fine ask all the questions you want, But if someone else (such as my self) is looking for help and you have NO CLUE what your talking about then I keep your opinions to your self
Honda (RC26) VFR700
"hey Randy, do a wheelie!!"
Originally posted by Gangsta SV
heres a person who replaced it with a straight pipe , gained about 2 hp on the dyno
http://www.geocities.com/MotorCity/5335/testpipe.htm
ya its legal as long as you don't get caught![]()
Dude, I was using "test pipes" on cars before you were born.....
Depending on what type of Cat-con you got will determine how much restriction there is..... we had a 275 hp 1.6 liter mitsu engine running a catcon, and it was legal....would blow double zeros all day long.....and don't ask me what I mean by double zeros OK?
Go back to school, punk.......![]()
Originally posted by Gangsta SV
heres a person who replaced it with a straight pipe , gained about 2 hp on the dyno
Hey mark is it me or can 10 dyno's in a row have varing HP, and tourqe... Just thinking back to vanson show couple years back, three runs three different reads(between 3 and 5 HP) plus or minus... Oh and a probe GT(where I got my name) will pump out fifteen more HP with a brosal ex....with cat(flowthrough that is)
Whether or not deleting the cat conv will affect performance will be determined largely by the car and everything else in the exhaust train... and usually if you want to reap the performance gains you have to do the whole deal, from headers all the way back. Simply removing the cats from my bmw race car resulted in NO performance gains(OK, it was 1 pony gain, but thats so negligible as to not really be considered a real gain and could have easily been the result of differences between the dyno runs in heat/atmosphere, etc), but when I did headers, no cat, O2 sensor simulators, and race muffler, then I noticed about 10 ponies... all in all, thats 10 ponies for about $4000 investment, so think twice about deleting the cat etc as for a large number of cars you need to do a whole lot more than simply get rid of the cat. Also to consider is that if you have a restrictive intake chain (air intake + filter, airflow meter, throttle bodies, etc) changing the exhaust might do nothing... modifying for ponies is an all or nothing game, and if you want to go that route you better do the research and be prepared for months of testing and 10s if not hundreds of dyno runs... OR in other words, 'what mark said'
But when we ride very fast motorcycles, we ride with immaculate sanity. We might abuse a substance here and there, but only when it's right. The final measure of any rider's skill is the inverse ratio of his preferred Traveling Speed to the number of bad scars on his body. It is that simple: If you ride fast and crash, you are a bad rider. If you go slow and crash, you are a bad rider. And if you are a bad rider, you should not ride motorcycles.
The key point I want to make is that tuning is a SCIENCE that in order to do well with the desired results requires full iterations through the scientific method (hypothesize, test, prove/disprove, refine hypotheses), and should not be done willy nilly. If you REALLY believe the claims of most aftermarket companies that 'simple mod X' will gain X hp, then you really need to think again. In all actuality, mods to gain H/P are usually not the best route to go in terms of bang for the buck. If you REALLY are performance minded, think suspension before you think hp. The bang for the buck is usually tremendously greater... horsepower shmorspower, if you really want to increase your times where it really matters, tune your suspension to let you hang that corner that much harder. Then again, I am of the belief that I could give a damn if my M3 can beat a mustang gt cobra off the line, I just watch them drop off into the rearview as I take the first corner at 2x their speed and exit the corner at 3x their speed due to better chassis dynamics and suspension.
Cheers,
Chris
But when we ride very fast motorcycles, we ride with immaculate sanity. We might abuse a substance here and there, but only when it's right. The final measure of any rider's skill is the inverse ratio of his preferred Traveling Speed to the number of bad scars on his body. It is that simple: If you ride fast and crash, you are a bad rider. If you go slow and crash, you are a bad rider. And if you are a bad rider, you should not ride motorcycles.
Get a copy of the shop manual and see where they route those lines when the CHARCOAL CANNISTER is not there. May be just let them hang, but you may be loosing vacuum to the tank if you do that.
There are most likely other changes as well between a 49 stater and a Cali version, usually in the jetting in the carbs.
Chances are you won't notice a difference with or without the cannister, assuming it was working(not clogged) and you have all the hoses routed correctly.
Well since I wont see any benifits from deleting the canister,etc (maybe a pound or two in weight at the most) I wont bother. But thank to those who have posted with "real" advice
Honda (RC26) VFR700
"hey Randy, do a wheelie!!"
Dynos are dynos are dynos......I want you to insert what changed every time you made another pull....Give up?Originally posted by SEVENSGT
Hey mark is it me or can 10 dyno's in a row have varing HP, and tourqe... Just thinking back to vanson show couple years back, three runs three different reads(between 3 and 5 HP) plus or minus... Oh and a probe GT(where I got my name) will pump out fifteen more HP with a brosal ex....with cat(flowthrough that is)
ENGINE TEMP! My tlr makes more HP at 168 degrees than it does at 185.
Mostly all dynos have software to correct for atmospheric conditions, and altitude.
The other thing is missing is that when you do a Dyno day, they don't hook up an ignition lead to the engine. Without this, the software calculates HP, by how fast your bike accelerates the drum, and doesn't take readings of engine RPM's to give you true HP and Torque.
Don't be surprised to find a 3 to 5% difference between different dynos also.
If you run a baseline on a dyno, make your changes, and use the same dyno to see what has changed.