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Well, I changed my oil last night to get ready for a ride today.. I woke up excited to get a few hours of riding for the first time this year. I left and rode about 2 miles to a friends house.. Thats where I noticed oil all over my rear tire!! Apparently little elves broke into my garage and loosend one of the oil plugs on my bike..? Fair to say I lost all that new oil, and the plug... I was out of commision for the day.. Not a good way to start the season off.. I was able to get a new plug and oil from Razee right before they closed.. Tomorrow I will clean the bike and try this again.. I followed an oil trail about 1 mile long. It amazes me how I didnt wipe out with all that oil on my tire..![]()
Damn Elves!!!![]()
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BTW oil aint f'in cheap! I'm out 30 bux!
Current Toys:
2005 Nissan Titan CC
man you are lucky, be careful, tell me about, I just spend $37.00 for 4 qts of Spectro golden
I just go to wally world and get the magical Rotella T synthetic for $12/gal
If you are going to spend 37 bucks on a gallon of Spectro ... you're crazy.
I must be crazy, I spend 14 dollars a liter for motorex power synthetic. An oil change costs me a little over 60 with filter and oil, plus the time it takes me to do it. I` can't complain tho the bikes always running smooth. I'll be sure check all my plugs next time I finish. I usually leave the bike running for about 10 minutes after i'm done and if I don't see a puddle I assume I'm good to go.
My bike requires 10w50 synth. Motorex is the only oil I can find around here..
Btw, degsy has told me I can switrch to 15w50 or 10w40 I will try that next time
Current Toys:
2005 Nissan Titan CC
so if I'm using the spectro 10w-40 synthetic blend, so I can switch to any other synthetic blend right? cause I know I can't switch back to the conventional oil once going synthetic, can some clarify this for me? thanks
shit If I can save some money why not, A friend of mine though me how to change my own oil last year, and he told about spectro, if I would have know I would have stayed using regular motorcycle oil
Oil is oil is oil is oil is oil is oil ......
Marketing is about P&L which is not Profit & Loss
It is propaganda and lies.
You can switch back and forth ... you can spend 2 bucks a quart to 40 bucks a quart.
Motorcycle oil does not have the energy conservation friction modifiers in it.
That is why diesel engine motor oil works great in bikes.
Another funny thing that I have noticed, those who spend $$$ for oil tend
to trade in their bikes every 3 years or so.
Marketers know that ...
BTW Shell Rotella T Synthetic comes in 15W 40
Last edited by Currently; 04-01-07 at 03:46 PM.
This is exactly why we like people to ride their bikes before coming to track day (after they change the oil).
i run Suzuki oil..... the factory warranty likes it that way
When I start my KTM in the morning, rules are broken. Its inevitable...
01 SV650S (RC51 eater)/07 690SM /03 300EXC/14 XTZ1200
TRACKS:Firebird/NHMS/VIR/Calabogie/California Speedway/NJMP/MMC/NYST/Palmer/Thompson/Club Motorsports
I used to run the cheap ass walmart oil till I blew a motor. I go to Naults, get the M/c specific oil and Honda filter and the 25% discount. So yeah i run the MC oil.
KB
Oil isn't oil isn't oil isn't oil...
CCS/ASRA Pro
2010 Yamaha R6
oil is oil, it does no harm to switch from synthetic back to conventional or vice versa, you can mix oils if you like.
synthetic oil does not protect you engine any better than conventional, the only advantage is that is maintains its properties better and you can use it for more miles
if your changing your oil at the normal recommended interval, it's a waste to use synthetic oil
almost all "synthetic" oils are not even synthetic, they are made from petroleum, just a more refined base stock that allows for more solids in suspension
RandyO
IBA#9560
A man with a gun is a citizen
A man without a gun is a subject LETS GO BRANDON
I ran mobil 1 in my triumph because thats what the manufacturer recomended, it was pricey I think an oil change with filter was roughly$60 with me doin gthe labor. but rated to go 6000 miles between oil changes so not that bad in the long run. I figured if I bought the factory recomended stuff and had any warranty issues I could atleast say I used what they recomended.
SO here is the question to be asked, why would you use anything other than what the bike maker recomends?
12 Vstrom 1000
09 KLR 650
09 Yamaha WR450F (street legal)
(hers)
13 Vstrom 650ADV
08 Yamaha WR250F(street legal )
09 KLR650
I hope that some day you get the chance to speak to a engineer in the
petroleum industry ...
You will find out what really goes on behind the scenes and what
goes on in marketing and executive boardrooms is a bit shall we say
disconnected.
The truth was quite disconcerting to me at first ...
That is because I WANTED to believe the propaganda and lies.
Most people really want to buy into that shite ...
Their bike is their baby ... they want the best for it ...
Truth is, if you change oil on a regular basis you will never notice the
difference between 10 dollar quart of oil and a 2 dollar quart of oil as
long as the specs are met. No energy conservation friction modifiers
because bikes have wet clutches.
Marketing will make a 35 cent quart of oil sell for ten bucks.
Marketing will make 50 cents of vitamins sell for 85 bucks.
Marketing will make a 35 dollar slipon sell for 400 dollars.
Marketing will make one football team much better than another one.
They won the Superbowl last year so this box of cereal with their picture
on it must be much better that that loser brand.
If you dig deep ... you will find that it is all bullshit.
Do a search on Google regarding
MOTOR OIL MYTHS
Or even better ... this is what got me into that line of thinking
Do a search on Slick50 and lawsuits.
Marketing sole purpose is to make more money than what the product
is worth. Think about it. Research it. Make up your own mind.
Now if an oil company is paying you contingency fees ... you better tell
me that oil is much better than anything else. Right?
only if you don't change your oil when youe supose to
even energy conserving oils are not as bad for a bike as they are hyped to be
if you low on oil, it's better to top off with energy conserving oil than to run it low. the primary problem with energy conserving oils are not the added moly friction modifiers, they just aren't made to the correct viscosity, and lack shear strength additives that are in bike specific AND diesel truck oils
RandyO
IBA#9560
A man with a gun is a citizen
A man without a gun is a subject LETS GO BRANDON
Fuck all ya! If piece of mind is worth $60 to someone, who the fuck is ANYONE to argue that? Gimme a fuckin' break. If $20 a change does it for you, great! If TWO FUCKIN' HUNDRED is worth it, great! I'm so fuckin' tired of hearin' this shit...
For what it's worth: I've never run synth in my TL-R. Actually, I did once and the clutch hated it. I usually pick-up a coupla gallon jugs of some dino m/c specific shit at the beginning of the year. I've also used Fram filters for over 100K combined miles...
On the other hand, I only ran semi-synth on my old RF (again, with Fram filters). 43K on the clock when I wedged it in the trees. All that with the original, stock clutch...
If spending the ka-ching makes you feel better, do it. If dishing out that kinda cake doesn't suit you, fine. Just shut the fuck up already. Shellin' out $60 every 5000 miles or so ain't gonna kill ya...
-Carry on...
Did you grit your teeth and try to look like Clint Fuckin' Eastwood?
Or did you lisp it all hangfisted like a fuckin' flower?
Hey MR STONNER ...
http://www.nestreetriders.com/forum/...dif-forum.html
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Last edited by Currently; 04-01-07 at 09:25 PM. Reason: to bust Jay's chops ...
The point people seem to be missing is for the most part the only ones that "meet the spec" for your bike are the fairly expensive ones. (As opposed to the uber-expensive ones)
Car Oil just does not meet the spec period. If saving $10 is that important just don't grenade the bike and go looking for the manufacturer to warranty anything.
You did get lucky - mainly because you didn't pop the engine, or lose the back end.
There are differences in oils (as BenVFR pointed out)... Car oil is designed for a different set of conditions then motorcycle oil. The biggest difference is the transmission and in most cases the clutch. Buy what you are comfortable with - I use the honda brand and change it about every 3k miles with a new honda filter for the bike. My car goes into the shop and gets Castrol full synthetic with a new Mann filter. The Exploder (1995 - 125k miles) goes to the local garage and gets napa (I think) for $19.95 complete.
SSearchVT
For every action there is an equal but opposite reaction - and sometimes a scar...
Who said anything about car oil?
I use diesel oil ... Rotella T synthetic.
I am not expecting to grenade my motor, however if it does, I will be sure to let you know!
That way you can tell me that "I told you so!"
I pour my old bike oil (along with anything else I find) in my car since it leaks so badly anyways. Why put fresh oil in unless I'm doing a filter change. After 3000 miles it's bone dry.