hawk race prep

[tsorfas]

so although its my slaving time of the year I wanna start getting things done for racing the hawk next year.
I know a lot of people have great experience on these bikes here so once again I am here for suggestions/ideas any kind of possible help.
I got an email from motorcycle-superstore.com today saying 40% off tires for winter and some other promos. I was wondering what kind of tires you guys would recommend on the hawk? On the 600 and the 1000 I was very happy with dunlops and michelin. Track tire I think the best one I have used was dunlop. this is a completely different bike so I am not sure. It has pirellis on it now which I think they did great but i dont think I got anywhere near their limits.
Some other stuff I will need (on the top of my head) would be frame sliders, and body work. I wont be able to touch the bike til January because of work, but I want to start buying the stuff piece by piece so I dont have to do it all at once and possibly forget anything.
I will still need new some new gear after the crash fest i had this year. Helmet for sure (i will probably stick with scorpion) and I still havent decided if I want to repair the suit or buy a new one.
I got tire warmers and a a transporder (thanks Lou).
I will need a front stand as well for it.
Let me know where,who,what anything you guys can think of. (websites, local stores, stuff you have for sale, i am open to whatever).

[nt650hawk]

you know me I like my Stones. Miles at Streeet and Comp.
Mtag pirelli
Sot for Michelin.
Think Steve for Dunlop

1st year you can't go wrong. BUT ... Bridgestone pays contingency = $ back in your pocket for doing well. Mostly top 3.......

if you are going to race get race tires. I made that mistake going with a street tire rear and first laps were tough if not putting me on the ground.

[Yknot]

+1 on getting off the street tires. My first couple weekends hurt before I was convinced to get race tires.

[Rada]

For sure buy race rubber.

[snwbrdr435]

Going to be keeping track of this thread. I need a few odds and end here.

[Doc]

1. Forget the bodywork other than a belly pan.

2. Remove flywheel/stator and anything else to lighten the bike.

3. Get your carbs right

4. Use Dino oil and not Synthetic

5. Bill is doing 20's on a stock motor, you don't need engine work. Learn to ride the piss out of it.

The bike should be pretty set up as it is with coils and jetted and race wired. Just put gas in it and run it...

Frame sliders are as easy as some threaded rod, some nuts and derilin sliders. Where did the sliders that were on it go?

Use the tires you have until they are shagged and then listen to Gino.

[tsorfas]

Broke the left one (frame slider) on a crash

[snwbrdr435]

Things I need

Front fender, Frame sliders, Starter, and should I run a fuel pump?

[Kurlon]

You have to run some sort of a pump as gas doesn't flow up hill. Vacuum or electric comes down to personal preference.

[snwbrdr435]

You have to run some sort of a pump as gas doesn't flow up hill. Vacuum or electric comes down to personal preference.

I think it may have a vacuum setup now, I'll have get over there to take a look.

[Doc]

Things I need

Front fender, Frame sliders, Starter, and should I run a fuel pump?

Vacuum is lighter and cheaper. What front end is on it? I have a couple fenders kicking around. I MAY even have a starter in a box.

[Trouble]

I found it was best to keep the bike as simple as possible for the first couple years. I run a stock (electric) fuel pump because I know it'll work. I didn't mess with the stator/flywheel because I have enough other stuff going on than to mess with the charging system. Just make a belly pan and keep it small enough you don't need to remove it to make it through tech. I've always use Amsoil synthetic with my bike and never had an issue. I'm not sure where Doc is coming from there. Spend the winter cleaning and checking everything on your bike. You'd be surprised what you find when doing a thorough cleaning and it'll make working on it much more pleasant. Check and double check fasteners. Fix anything that looks slightly dodgy. You don't want to be doing that between races. Gets some good tires and suspension to instill confidence in your bike. There are a lot of opinions on tire manufacturers and while I love my Pirelli's I think there are other good tires out there too. As Gino said, don't discount contingency money.

[Paul_E_D]

Or just sneak into John's garage and swap bikes! That's what I'd do.

[tsorfas]

Only Bridgestone pays in NV and AM?

[snwbrdr435]

I believe so, front end on my hawk is an 04-05 600rr.

[Doc]

Trouble, many people have had issues with synthetic and clutch slippage. I think there are some synthetics you can run that are motorcycle clucth approved but I found it easier to stick with Dino oil and save a little money to boot.

No 600rr fenders "snwbrd435" sorry.

[Kurlon]

Trouble, many people have has issues with synthetic and clutch slippage. I think there are some synthetics you can run that are motorcycle clucth approved but I found it easier to stick with Dino oil and save a little money to boot.

No 600rr fenders "snwbrd435" sorry.

The issue has nothing to do with dino squeezing vs synthetic and everything to do with additive packages. If the oil is 'energy conserving' odds are it's got teflon and other crap in it that can wreck havoc with the clutch, ignoring weather the base stocks came out of the ground or a test tube.

[snwbrdr435]

No 600rr fenders "snwbrd435" sorry.

No problem thanks anyways! Going to need a lighter spring for my fox shock (currently 1400# spring) It would have worked a year ago but now I don't think so.

[JettaJayGLS]

I'll have pirelli take offs all season if you guys need em...although you're gonna want to run new rubber once you move out of novice.

[nt650hawk]

No problem thanks anyways! Going to need a lighter spring for my fox shock (currently 1400# spring) It would have worked a year ago but now I don't think so.

how heavy are you?

I run Motul 3t full syn with no issues...

I like the electric fuel pump because whe I work on the bowls and or drain them dry for transportation, I like to just flip the switch on and it fills right up w/out having to crank the bat. dead.


Suspension is the key to going fast. Start there with the bike. you can gdo 19's with a 100% stock motor!!!!!

I always do a complete engine teardown every winter just to check things over before racing. I don't like going into a season with unknowns. I would highly recomend it for anyone racing. It is super easy to do and it make you feel better about what you are getting on knowing if there is an issue you have been there before and you can easily (hopefuly) fix the problem.

[snwbrdr435]

how heavy are you?

I always do a complete engine teardown every winter just to check things over before racing. I don't like going into a season with unknowns. I would highly recomend it for anyone racing. It is super easy to do and it make you feel better about what you are getting on knowing if there is an issue you have been there before and you can easily (hopefuly) fix the problem.

140-145 probably lighter by next spring..... A tear down is on the list of things to get done this winter

[nt650hawk]

#1300 may be the lucky #

I ran a 1400 and a 1500# anywhere from 170-180# sans gear.

[tsorfas]

i want my bike done and april to be here tomorrow? ill use one of my 3 wishes idc

[CBR929RE]

The issue has nothing to do with dino squeezing vs synthetic and everything to do with additive packages. If the oil is 'energy conserving' odds are it's got teflon and other crap in it that can wreck havoc with the clutch, ignoring weather the base stocks came out of the ground or a test tube.

molybdenum is the stuff you want to avoid with a wet clutch

[Doc]

So I must have bought some synthetic with the wrong additives in it...