Chain and Sprocket Advice...

[Femmekat]

On my winter "to do" list is to replace the chain and sprockets on the '00 R6 and am looking for recommendations, since I don't really know diddly squat about the reputations of different manufacturers, etc. and there is a lot of cheap crap out there on the interwebs. What is on the bike now is most likely stock, I have no interest in changing the gearing at this point, having to buy a speed healer, etc. was just looking for some basic pros and cons of diff manufacturers, steel vs. aluminum, 520, 525, 530 etc.

Thanks!

[stoinkythepig]

How many miles do you think you'll put on the bike before you sell it? If <25,000, mid-grade ($100 or so) chain and an aluminum rear sprocket will probably be fine. If you plan to ride the bike a lot further, premium chain ($140 or so) and a steel rear sprocket would likely last longer. I'd use whatever size the manufacturer used. I cannot imagine the small weight savings of a smaller chain would make much difference in the real world.

My most disappointing chain was a premium DID X-ring. Some links stretched so wickedly that it felt like the engine was surging and mis-firing when cruising slowly in first gear and the problem started pretty early, mileage-wise. I put a Regina ZRP on last year, hoping it was worth the premium price.

[Femmekat]

Hmmmm... not sure how many miles I'll put on it before I sell it... am definitely keeping it through next season... which will be an over 12,000 mile season... and see no reason to sell for a while..

[Jim]

steel sprockets. Sunstar or AFAM 525. DID 525 chain with rivet master link. dont change gearing (teeth sizes)

[seth399]

steel sprockets. Sunstar or AFAM 525. DID 525 chain with rivet master link. dont change gearing (teeth sizes)

rivet masterlink? eww

[Jim]

it's a street bike, and clip-on masters suck

[Kitt]

rivet masterlink? eww

absolutely...

[Qfactor]

I get ~12K out of my chains w/ semi-regular cleaning. OEM o-ring, DID X-ring, EK X-ring are all about the same.

steel sprockets or hard anodize Al are ideal for street.

Always the rivet links, never tried the clip masterlinks...

Q

[Eric Baker]

DID or EK x-ring chain with rivet master link. Driven/AFAM and Renthal sprockets are quite good if you want to go aluminum. You'll be fine going with 520 pitch for a little rotating mass weight saving. Stock gearing is 16 tooth front and 48 tooth rear.
If you want a still have my stock gears with fairly low miles from my '02 I'll give ya if you wanna save money.

[stoinkythepig]

You'll be fine going with 520 pitch for a little rotating mass weight saving. Stock gearing is 16 tooth front and 48 tooth rear.

You could enjoy a similar weight savings and an improvement in mass centralization by not wearing a bra.

[DuncanMoto]

come see me and I'll show you all the options.
I'm back on the 25th

[Femmekat]

You could enjoy a similar weight savings and an improvement in mass centralization by not wearing a bra.

I will be doing a 520 conversion with undergarments as well... wait, what?



And Ted.... yes of course I will come visit you!

[Jim]

lauren, 520 will be useless to you, since you do mostly long distance cruises on group rides.

[Femmekat]

But Jim..... I was thinking about just removing the underwires from the bra maybe? Or going to strapless for weight savings?

And FYI...I have 6 track days and a Penguin day already for next season, less cruisin and more Louden

[CBR929RE]

I've heard Vortex aluminum rear sprockets wear out extremely quickly.

[Jim]

I've heard Vortex aluminum rear sprockets wear out extremely quickly.

they do. got maybe 5k miles on my vortex aluminum sprocket & it started to show wear.

went back to 525 steel sprockets with a DID VM2 chain. after 10k miles, i needed my 1st chain adjustment.

[hondarider102]

DID chain, renthal Sprockets is what i got, about 8k miles on them so far and very little wear

[butcher bergs]

Lauren,
At this point in your riding experience there is nothing which would warrant any chain conversions or aluminum bits and have it directly correlate to increasing your riding abilities or learning curve. Save your money for now because you'll be pissing it away on equipment you essentially don't "need".

I have done many trackdays on a streetbike using OEM-sized chain and factory steel gearing and have come out the other side unscathed........well, except for that one time but it had nothing to do with the chain and sprockets.

If you need to get a chain and sprockets because your current OEM stuff is worn out then consider replacing with comparable parts to the stock configuration. You won't notice any gains by going with a 520 or aluminum sprockets.

RK chain with a pair of Sunstar steelies and have a nice day.

[hammadown]

I had some good feedback from people here about supersprox for sprockets. I got one then sold the bike...kurlon, how is it? :p

+1 on rivet masters. Clip masters leave you stranded in the middle of the woods and having to ride 2-up with Tony to get your truck. On second though, clip make you ride 2 up with Tony.

[G21forme]

I had some good feedback from people here about supersprox for sprockets.

http://www.nestreetriders.com/forum/...llen-love.html


Um yeah she looked into those but they don't make em for her bike, think she'll be mad when she finds out I ordered a set for the 636 while she wasn't looking?

[Crash Dummy Denno]

buy here and use your bomo elite discount

[richw]

Find a chart with tensile strengths stronger lasts longer. Buy a complete kit sprockets and chain. Note I have used clip links for 40 years and 150,000 miles still waiting for 1st problem

I lube often but usually get over 15000 on a chain. If you don't have specific problems then save your money.

Easiest way is to check it is to get the rear wheel up so you can spin the tire

roll the tire around and see if chain gets tighter or looser at different points. Look for angles between the links like 1 is stuck. On the back of the rear sprocket try to lift the chain from the sprocket. It should only lift a small amount.

Even if I was concerned I would give it a nice clean with like wd40 and a rag then try again and see if it works better.

Take your money to Victoria Secret for something red and push up

[G21forme]

Find a chart with tensile strengths stronger lasts longer. Buy a complete kit sprockets and chain. Note I have used clip links for 40 years and 150,000 miles still waiting for 1st problem

I lube often but usually get over 15000 on a chain. If you don't have specific problems then save your money.

Easiest way is to check it is to get the rear wheel up so you can spin the tire

roll the tire around and see if chain gets tighter or looser at different points. Look for angles between the links like 1 is stuck. On the back of the rear sprocket try to lift the chain from the sprocket. It should only lift a small amount.

Even if I was concerned I would give it a nice clean with like wd40 and a rag then try again and see if it works better.

Take your money to Victoria Secret for something red and push up

Dude your post is completely irrelevent as she knows her chain/sprockets are junk and was looking for some information on replacement parts and even she knows wd40 is shit on chains. Yeah she is a chic on nesr but stick to your racist tin foil hat crap you post and show some respect for a female rider.

[Slyder]

Again with the you don't need a 520 stuff. Awesome. Here's why she does need a 520.

She will see a benefit, that 520 chain is a lot stronger than anything OEM. OEM sucks though, and the EK MVXZ 520 chain is actually a lot stronger than some 525's and 530 chains. So really, if it is so strong...why not go 520? She will pay less for a 520 chain, compared to a 525 or 530. And I've noticed the 520 sprockets are cheaper than 525 or 530 sprockets. She can buy all 3 items she needs and save $ on each by going 520 over 525 or 530. It might not be huge savings, but if $ is tight? Like say, having no job...doesn't it make sense to spend less and get much much better equipment?

Will she see a performance gain? Nope.
Did I with my bike? Nope.
Well that's not entirely true, I went -1 +1. So when I whack the bitch open I get a good view of the sky.

Over 7000 miles on a hard anodized Driven Sprocket (front sprocket is steel) and EK MVXZ 520 chain... with me beating the living piss out of it on a gixxer 1k. My rear sprocket looks new. The chain got tightened maybe 3 times last summer during the 7k+ I rode it, which was a lot less than I tightened my OEM 530, in 3500 less miles. And there are plenty of people on here who can attest to me beating the piss out of said chain and sprockets. Her being one of them...G21 too. Remember Hurricane mtn rd?

Some tensile strengths :

EK MVXZ 520=9,400
RK GXW 520=8,800
DID ERV3=8,660

$185 to $190 (depending on chain color) for a set of 520 Driven sprockets and an EK MVXZ chain, shipped to your door...in about 3 days time even.

If you can get someone local to do that for ya with the above equipment, or beat it...great. If not, http://www.motomummy.com/store/produ...cat=270&page=1

[butcher bergs]

Again with the you don't need a 520 stuff. Awesome. Here's why she does need a 520.

She will see a benefit, that 520 chain is a lot stronger than anything OEM. OEM sucks though

Bold statements wouldn't you say?

A few things before you drink too much of that 520 Koolaid.

OEM sucks? Interesting because I had an OEM chain last 36,000 miles before I replaced it. Did only the front sprocket at 22,xxx to get a few more out of the other components.

You say you beat the piss out of your 1000 but why is it, after 2 years of service, I already have to replace my 520 chain and sprocket set on my 600?

Your sprockets may *look* plenty new but have you put a gauge on it to actually see the wear? I mean, my tires *look* like they're filled with air.....ya know?

And as far as beating the piss out of your bike, that's subjective so I'd keep it in your pants for now.