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It just took me a good 10 minutes and 2 bits to get through my drain plug head once. Is there an advantage to drilling through all 6 faces of the bolt head or can I just do one and done?
Try marking the bolts in place and remove/ drill one at a time. Be sure to use cutting fluid or oil and clean chips out of the drill flutes often to prevent galling.
Are you drilling through the entire head or just two adjacent flats? Yes it's an ass ache, but no need to make it even more difficult.
99 + 02 SV650 ex-race - 91 FJ1200 street - 03 KDX220R woods - 12 WR450F motard/ice
Drill what is necessary to sufficiently secure the bolt. Sometimes that means "directly" through. Sometimes that means through 4 faces (which means 2 corners) if you are wiring something with a stud.
Generally if you have a head that you are securing a "straight" through works.
If you have specific questions post a pic. There are plenty of critics here.
Uhhh yeah... Don't go through the entire head, just drill at an angle and use a center punch if you need it to keep the bit from walking.
Torque the bolt, mark the side(s) you want to drill, remove & have at it.... and buy a ton of bits.
-Pete
NEMRR #81 - ECK Racing
Cyclesmith Track Days
Woodcraft | MTag-Pirelli | OnTrack Media
'03 Tuono | '06 SV650 | '04 CRF250X | '24 Aprilia Tuareg
I've dished the head of larger bolts with a large bit, then drilled straight in from the sides, ends up looking a little like the Probolts and saves a bunch of drilling with the small bits.
'02 SV650 street|woods|race LRRS #128
I need to start doing this on my minis
can't you just do this?
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Last edited by breakdirt916; 04-21-14 at 09:51 AM.
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That's what I've always done.
-Pete
NEMRR #81 - ECK Racing
Cyclesmith Track Days
Woodcraft | MTag-Pirelli | OnTrack Media
'03 Tuono | '06 SV650 | '04 CRF250X | '24 Aprilia Tuareg
if u dont have a punch.. u can start a tiny hole straight.. just a lil bit and then turn it to an angle.
exactly what I was going to suggest. center punch first cause it'll still want to walk then go in a little straight then go at the angle. works great.
and don't put too much pressure behind the drill. that's when bits break. I think the best bits I've found are Dewalt, I forget the metal. might have been titanium.
LRRS Am #331
Graphic Tailor / Woodcraft / Armour Bodies / Suomy / Cycle Performance Autobody / Shorai / ChickenHawk Racing
I am more of a fan of drilling all the way through.. It is a bit more work. Especially if you don't have a drill press and a vise.
Bits..... Go in a horses mouth..
Drills go in a drill chuck to cut metal.
Titanium is used to make light strong parts. (consumer advertising is stupid).
Titanium Nitride is used to coat a steel or carbide cutting tool to make the surface of the tool harder and more heat resistant...
The best drills for safety wire purposes are ones made from cobalt and with a 135° split point. Real cutting oil will make it go a lot better too. You need plenty of RPM for a 1/16" drill to cut well.
Side pressure is the enemy. So is break out on the far side. When you start breaking out you need to ease up on the pressure.
Sorry
The older I get the Faster I wuz
Last edited by carsick; 04-21-14 at 10:06 PM. Reason: questioning elemental purity
99 + 02 SV650 ex-race - 91 FJ1200 street - 03 KDX220R woods - 12 WR450F motard/ice
135 degree drill on amazon..
Tits ahoy!!!
The older I get the Faster I wuz
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99 + 02 SV650 ex-race - 91 FJ1200 street - 03 KDX220R woods - 12 WR450F motard/ice
I've gotten my latest 135 degree bits at Fastenal.
2004 SV650
1979 GS 850GN
2005 Tt-r125
NEMRR #246 - Woodcraft / Armour Bodies / Hindle Exhaust / Central Mass Powersports
any good reason to use 1/16" instead of 5/64"?
'02 SV650 street|woods|race LRRS #128
ya, I have a set of dewalt.. i cant remember.. i think it is titanium.. they are gold.. they work excellent !!!
here's the solution: http://www.probolt-usa.com/stainless...race-spec.html
LRRS Am #331
Graphic Tailor / Woodcraft / Armour Bodies / Suomy / Cycle Performance Autobody / Shorai / ChickenHawk Racing