Trailer Talk - Repairs and Mods

[Kurlon]

I picked up a 6x10 steel framed trailer from another racer, so now I'm part of the cool kids club, right? Looking it over I see a couple things I want to mod or tweak, curious to see what others' thoughts are.

Repairs - There is a roughly 10mm hole in the skin on one side, looks like a blow out from something being screwed into the wood panel on the inside with too long a bolt. Suggestions on how to seal it up? I'm thinking epoxy and a tin patch, spray bomb over it to protect the metal?

Mods - How hard is it to retrofit brakes to a trailer that didn't ship with any? Weight distributing hitches, worth the upgrade?

[keeena]

Not hard to retrofit brakes as long as the axle supports it. Check the axle behind the hub. If you see a square plate w/ a hole in each corner: you're good - this is the mounting flange for a brake hub. Pop off the idler hub and bolt on a brake assembly then install a brake hub/drum. Then it's just a matter of running wiring and change to a 7-round pigtail on the trailer. If you can change trailer wheel bearings, you can easily handle this job.

W/D hitch: I doubt you'd need this for a 6x10.

[Kurlon]

I don't think I *need* a W/D hitch, but after towing over frost heaves last night I'm game for anything that'll improve the ride.

[Rada]

W/D hitch... How big is your tow rig. If it less than a full sized rig then I would get one. I never used one until I got my toy hauler. Now I wish I had one years ago..

[Trouble]

I don't think I *need* a W/D hitch, but after towing over frost heaves last night I'm game for anything that'll improve the ride.

How was it loaded last night? In my experience the proper load distribution within the trailer is much more important than a weight distribution hitch on a small trailer. What's your tow vehicle? If you're towing an 8x10 with a Passat then yes, you may want to consider a W/D hitch. A 3500HD not so much.

[Kurlon]

It was unloaded. Tow vehicle is a Toyota Highlander.

[OreoGaborio]

Weight distributing hitches, worth the upgrade?

It definitely was for me... Found mine for about 200 bucks shipped.
I also have a 100 dollar airbag set-up. Air Lift 1000. Look it up. Dramatically improves ride when towing heavy. Improves it even when not towing (The Pathfinder's rear end is known to be a little squishy. Giggity.)

That said, I'm pulling 4-5k pounds & have prob a 3-500lb tongue weight if I had to guess and that's probably a bit more than what you'll be pulling. At that weight, electric brakes are an absolute must have. You'll prob want some too. My pathfinder limits are 6000 pull weight, 600 tongue weight. It could pull that much w/o help, but it's WAY more comfortable towing with the extras.



EDIT: Toyota Highlander, eh? You'll prob want to buy it some help. Air bags at least. What are the tow limits?

[Kurlon]

Gas job is rated for 5000lbs, my Hybrid is de-rated to 3500lbs on the same chassis... I'm carrying more weight (batteries) and it was the first year of this system in an SUV so they were being a bit conservative I think. It's clearly got the motor and brakes for the job. Air Lift doesn't list the Highlander as a supported vehicle, I'll have to climb under it tonight to see if it's something that I can adapt or if the suspension setup just won't work with their airbags. The ride is normally pretty tight which I like, but last night on those frost heaves... we were working that rear suspension.

Interesting, just looked up the hitch specs, capacity is 3500/350 unless paired with a W/D hitch, then it's 4000/400.

Local trailer shop has a W/D hitch with sway control on hand for $300. They've also got some used windows and some other bits that may be handy...

[Larry]

Single axle trailers love to sway and bounce all over the place especially when getting air over frost heaves. Load the trailer with 1000lbs of stuff and it will handle MUCH better. Of course if you plan to head further than NHMS, I agree with the L/D hitch (or if it just makes you feel a bit safer).

[Falko]

I don't want to spam you, but I have a WD hitch, brand new, that's been sitting in my shed for 9 years, it's from U-haul, 10k lb unit I believe. The box is junk now from tripping over it, but it is all there as far as I know. $100 and it's yours. Not sure your time frame on needing it but I can pull it out of the shed this weekend, and meet up with you sometime/where. No biggie either way.

[keeena]

I don't want to spam you, but I have a WD hitch, brand new...

Does it come w/ the shank too? Either way that's a great deal.

[Falko]

I don't think it was in prison, so no shank or shiv.

I don't know anything about this thing, nor what the shank is. The only thing I MAY have lifted out of the box is the 2" ball, and if I did it is in the garage on my trailer hitch and I'll put it back. But I don't think I did because I remember it being a 10k ball, and mine is only 7500 I use with my trailer. It has the receiver piece with ball, the two long arms, chains, and the clamp things for on the trailer. There might be some other parts in there as well. It weighs a ton (well, maybe half a ton, I'm just a pussy), all cast iron.

Story behind it, I bought a new Expedition in '04. The salesman told me it it had a 9k tow rating. I find out that it is really 5k because it didn't have the tow package. I called them on it and to get the tow rating up, they bought me a WDH. I never used it, they aren't recommended for surge brake boat trailers, and the truck never had an issue towing my boat. Fast forward, Expy is gone, new truck IS rated for 9500, this thing is taking up space and busting toes. Figured I'd offer to one of you guys at a decent price. If Kurlon isn't interested (only since I offered it to him first) it's up for grabs.

[keeena]

Shank is the part which goes into the receiver on the vehicle. The W/D head bolts onto the shank; shanks are often sold separately from the other W/D parts (head-#3/bars-#4/brackets-#5). Shank is item 2 in the pic.

[Falko]

Nope, pretty sure that is there, it's one of the heavier mofo's. I don't have #1 obviously, and the #5 parts are a bit different, I don't know if it has those adjustable stabilizers. But I haven't looked at this thing in years. If it is currently under a 350 crank and pistons/rods (which are free if anyone wants them, low hour boat stuff).

[OreoGaborio]

Shank is the part which goes into the receiver on the vehicle. The W/D head bolts onto the shank; shanks are often sold separately from the other W/D parts (head-#3/bars-#4/brackets-#5). Shank is item 2 in the pic.

Are they? Every WD kit I've seen comes with one... may not be the RIGHT one for the height of the vehicle.

[Kurlon]

Hrmmm... now I'm getting conflicting info, my hitch may not be ok with a W/D setup...

Bah, confirmed. Big warning right on the ID plate of the hitch - DO NOT USE WITH SPRING BARS

[keeena]

Are they? Every WD kit I've seen comes with one... may not be the RIGHT one for the height of the vehicle.

Ya, its common to buy be able to buy w/o shank...probably for exactly the reason ya mention (drop/rise height). When I was shopping for one I was only looking at kits w/o shanks.

Kurlon - These were the only things I found for the HL. I'd think limited effectiveness. http://www.etrailer.com/susp-2012_Toyota_Highlander.htm I think your best bet is to be smart about the loading the trailer, measure (don't guess) your tongue weight.

[MaRce1o]

I dont want to talk about trailers....haven't even started my yet lol

[GixerJockey]

"There can be only one!"

[Kurlon]

Today's progress - Cleaned out the interior, working on airing it out now to get rid of ye olde mothballe smell. Gotta de-sticker the outside a bit and settle on a layout for the inside. I was pleasently surprised to see e-trak is not that expensive, still haven't decided if I'm going that route or just going to put a couple key tie down points where I need them and call it good.

[OreoGaborio]

Unless you're installing electric brakes on it & don't have a jack, you might wanna tip it back up on its wheels first.

[Kurlon]

I'll work on my trailer my way, you work on yours your way.

[soofle616]

Definitely e track it. I thought I had mine laid out perfectly before I installed any tie downs or track. Literally put everything in the trailer where I wanted it. Within two unpack/pack up cycles I was putting things in completely different spots once I realized how things REALLY worked vs. how I thought they would. Ended up putting in more etrack and I'm gonna be moving/adding some additional tie down points and that's with etrack at three levels on both walls, 2x tie downs up front, and 3x in the rear. Granted my race program was still evolving at that point (still is really) but even so, having the adjustable tracks saved my ass. If everything had been single point fixed tie downs I would have been hosed.

[Kurlon]

What I really need is a way to get rid of mothball odor. I've got two ionizers and a fan going in there and not a dent so far.

[Sheppo]

It's going to be tough the smell is in the wood.