Turn 9

[JRide]

Wow, I definitely need to work on carrying more speed through the bowl.....I come through 8 pretty upright. The only time I was getting close to dragging knee through 8 was when I was making an outside pass but most of the time that was just before the tree house. I hear the far left of 8 is slick. True?

I go wide open into T7, once I flip for 8 I grab an upshift and go wide open to the tree house or little before. So I guess I should either get wide open sooner out of the bowl or carry more speed through the bowl.......

Maybe its time for a T6 thread......

I'm riding a 600rr.

[BMFR6]

Balls. I ride the rev limiter in 3rd for about 15 feet before 9 (same gearing - SV). Sounds like I should be grabbing an upshift to 4th coming out of the bowl?

I'm running 1:23's and only touching knee in T6 and occasionally in T2. Definitely need to work on body position more.

Mind if I ask when and where you're shifting?

Thanks,
Fitz

2 things I would say.
1) get some better reference points. 15 ft before x is not going to help your times at all
2) try coming into 6 in 4th. things will seem a lot smoother and you'll carry more corner speed and be able to get out of 6 without lugging it, additionally you won't have to worry about grabbing 4th at t7. currently with the downshift, you get the screaming engine, then the issue of shifting at right about the apex of 7, mentally it's a lot to take in. i used to do this as well, at a track day paul had me try it in 4th and my times immeadiately dropped.

[RyanNicholson]

2) try coming into 6 in 4th.

+1 Think of it this way... you're accommodating your slower corner speed by downshifting, and using the power of the lower gear to bail you out. Keep it in 4th and learn to carry enough speed Each shift is more to think about and upsets the bike... getting rid of a down/up for a specific corner is a big improvement.

I don't ride an SV so take that w/ a grain of salt, but I had similar issues and made my life a lot easier once I eliminated the shifts.

[BMFR6]

Wow, I definitely need to work on carrying more speed through the bowl.....I come through 8 pretty upright. The only time I was getting close to dragging knee through 8 was when I was making an outside pass but most of the time that was just before the tree house. I hear the far left of 8 is slick. True?

I go wide open into T7, once I flip for 8 I grab an upshift and go wide open to the tree house or little before. So I guess I should either get wide open sooner out of the bowl or carry more speed through the bowl.......

Maybe its time for a T6 thread......

I'm riding a 600rr.

see ryan's answer above. carry more speed through the bowl so you can carry a higher gear through 7-8. IMO (take this for what it's worth) you want to minimize what you have going on through 6-10. trying to grab a gear in a spot where the bike is already unhappy is just going to make things feel worse. at wide open, it takes work to get the bike turned in for 8, this is why a lot of people end up with issues pulling up on the bars here and get a lot of headshake. not being able to use all your leg strength because you are shifting is just going to multiply the problem. higher gear, leg strength and speed will make this section a lot smoother and faster.

[nt650hawk]

The head shake in 7 left to right. But there is also another reason other than the Left/Right. The pavement slightly drops right where you are making the transition. This slight drop plus being heavy on the throttle brings the suspension to extension. This causes the wheel to reduce its contact patch and forces the wheel to hunt around for something. Hence the tank slapper momentarily. If the TS get big enough, recovery will be difficult to bring back. A TS will happen until the pavement starts to come back up again and the tire is driven into the pavement with the rise and right hand lean. Cornerwork T7 and you will see just about all the fast guys getting a little wiggle here. I do a couple of things to compensate this head shake. I do what I call a body roll turn. From the left lean I transition by body to the right (no bar input) and roll the bike over with my left leg into T8. If I need any bar input I need to go to slight positive throttle where the pavement drops. I don’t use a Steering dampener. This is what I have found to work for me.

If you’re really good you can pull the wheel front wheel off the ground and make the Left right transition and avoid the dip in the pavement.

[Paul_E_D]

My new motard is fun at that spot. Instead of wagging, the front just floats a hair off the ground through the whole transiton. I get it a little crossed up. Woot! just have to be relaxed for that moment when it hooks up again!

[seth399]

My new motard is fun at that spot. Instead of wagging, the front just floats a hair off the ground through the whole transiton. I get it a little crossed up. Woot! just have to be relaxed for that moment when it hooks up again!

ya I was talking with alex last night about that section and we came to that conclusion...usually mine gets light in front and due to my hand inputsI pull one side of bars more than the other by accident, gets crossed up and then touches down and pulls the opposite way, usually no more than a few wags back in forth unless I'm really jerking

[a13x]

Yea I was telling Seth I just lean back and try to float a crossed up wheelie thru the 'flip flop' at 7/8. It feels neat and reduces headshake.

[Kurlon]

Yea I was telling Seth I just lean back and try to float a crossed up wheelie thru the 'flip flop' at 7/8. It feels neat and reduces headshake.

Great, so now I really DO have to learn how to wheelie...

[a13x]

By wheelie I mean 'like 1mm off the ground'

[JRide]

Excellent info. Thanks guys!