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I'm working on a list of stuff to check over on the EX before buying it. Not necessarily dealbreakers, but if nothing else negotiation points. I figure 1500 is on the high side for one of these, especially one without rain wheels or tires, so it should be sorted for that price. This is the stuff I'm thinking we should check over, any input, advice and additions appreciated.
I read a common issue is the bike popping into false neutral from 2nd gear under hard engine breaking. Any way to check that without actually riding it and engine braking hard?
I was also told to check the tranny for smooth shifting, easy enough.
Figure I should carefully look over the frame, fork, welds, etc. to see if there's any substantial crash damage, like a blatantly twisted frame or fork or a broken weld.
Make sure stock exhaust is intact, since I need it to run stock class (I think he might have said he has an extra set of pipes, which would make this less of an issue).
Wheel bearings
Steerer head bearings
Tires (he says they only have 1 track day on them, but who knows)
Check where case savers mount to frame to make sure they have not damaged the frame in a crash
Check clipons for any cracks/signs of imminent failure
Brake Pads & rotors
Chain
Sprockets
Hell, we'll even check out the grips, not that they are much of a big deal to replace. Just trying to cover all the bases to make sure I'm getting a bike that is actually worth this $.
Anything else I should be looking for?
Thanks,
Dan
You know this is Shitty Mcbikefest right?
wheres the kid that JB welded a penny to fix a leaking case cover.....
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I do. I've been using that term and laughing about it since I first heard it.Still, for the price and the lack of rain wheels I want to make sure I'm getting my $'s worth, or negotiate accordingly. Like I said, a lot of this stuff isn't dealbreaker material (although a bent frame probably would be). Just good to know what to look at before I buy it is all.
Basically... just make sure the main stuff is good to go (frame, motor, forks, rims, etc) when it comes to tires, clipons, chains, bearings, etc its all stuff thats either pretty cheap to replace, or stuff that you'll probably crash and break someday anyway. Race parts are designed to be replaceable.
Thats my thought anyway, I dont' know any of the ex specific things to look for.
Just buy that damn thing already!
LRRS/CCS Amateur #514 / RSP Racing / Woodcraft / MTAG Pirelli / Dyno Solutions / Tony's Track Days / Sport Bike Track Gear / 434racer / Brunetto T-Shirts / Knox / GMD Computrack
I'm waiting on him to get back to me to ensure that tomorrow is a go. He said sat or sunday in an email last night, I replied I'd like to go up on sat smack-dab in the middle of the 3 hour window he gave me, no reply yet. I'll call him later on if I don't hear back, but homefully I'll have that baby tomorrow afternoon![]()
There really isn't that much to go wrong on an EX. As long as the motor runs well (have him start it COLD, not warm when you get there), the frame/forks don't look like swiss cheese and all the bolts are there, you are getting a good deal.
Any other spares coming with it?
Good spares to have:
levers
CDI units
Coils
rear brake pedal
clip-ons
2021 KTM Duke 890 R
2020 BMW R1250GS Adventure Exclusive
1982 Honda CB750F Super Sport
But don't be alarmed if it makes all sorts of nasty rapping knocking bucking spitting sounds. That's kinda normal. It IS a lawn implement, after all.
You could also check to make sure the rear shock/fork seals aren't leaking.
If the thing needs anything there are enough of us here and on Ebay with CHEAP parts to easily get you going!
I think it's not pre-mature to welcome you into the world of the weirdos who actually ride these heaps! Welcome!
Mark Dages
CCS LRRS #454
The frames don't crack, and really don't need to be perfectly straight either. The bike has so much flex that there's a lot of "fudge factor" when it comes to straightness. The bike I did a 1:20 on had a front wheel that was like a half inch out of line with the rear.
If it still looks like it did in the picture, snap it up. As far as value, the amount you could save is very small. It's not always possible to find a set-up example though, which is were you would really waste money (buying a street bike or something).
Yeah, pick it up. You can always sell it for close the amount you bought it for as well.
Dan, I've drafted up a revised checklist for you:
1. Do I have the money in my hand?
2. Have I traveled to the seller's location?
3. Do I see an EX500 race bike in the vicinity of where I am standing?
4. Does it start?
If the answer to these questions is "yes", your quest is finished. Buy the bike.
Zip-Tie Alley Racing
LRRS/CCS #103
PPS | Dunlop | Boston Moto | Woodcraft & Armour Bodies | 35 Motorsports | Pit Bull | K&N
Firefly? Is that you???
Boston --> San Diego
Zip-Tie Alley Racing
LRRS/CCS #103
PPS | Dunlop | Boston Moto | Woodcraft & Armour Bodies | 35 Motorsports | Pit Bull | K&N