how much does racing actually cost?

[union]

This thread is making me want to bring my f4i to the track now... Was it supposed to have that effect?

Do it!

[TheIglu]

EX's are cheap racing, nothing more. Fun? Yes. Cool? No.

If you want to go racing without spending a lot of cash, EX is the best way.

If you want options/classes/etc, look elsewhere. Simple as that.

I used to think racing was expensive. Then I started flying.

[Pittenger5]

You tried using all the power

All the stopping power, without a doubt

[6 Fingered Man]

Do it!

I think i will bring it up, Ill bring the race bodywork with me... If the mood hits me ill wire it on Thursday night (its already drilled), throw the race stuff on and maybe race it...

If i crash two bikes this weekend it will cost way more than just crashing the hawk! They are right 600s can cost more!

[nt650hawk]

Mike, I respect our difference of opinions and I hear what you have been saying with regards to this topic but the thing is, the "practicality" of one's decision is for that individual to weigh out. For the rest of us, it's a matter of opinion of what's best for someone else.

I highly doubt it would have been practical for someone like myself to hop on an EX or a Hawk when my riding experience is with I-4's only. I'd have to re-learn how to ride altogether since the configuration of LW machine in general is nothing like the setup of a typical I-4.

IMHO, it's more practical to stay on something that you're familiar with as far a power delivery and chassis behavior goes. That's why I could barely place 3rd during that weekend on Scottie's 800....it was an unfamiliar bike to me in all respects of forward propulsion and something that required much more saddle time if I were to become competitive in that class.....




......well that and the clutch was smoked by Sunday.



I accept your opinion on this matter, Doc, but I can't wrap my head around why you feel that the ONLY way to learn anything about riding or racing is on a LW-classed machine. It's a limiting view, IMO.

Bergils. You could ride anything.

+ that was Scottie's 800, not your's. There is that caution factor don't cut yourself short....

Helmet(s)...
Heres my take, and im sorry but im usually long winded... My plan was 3 track days, penguin, then start racing. As for costs, in order to run a track day I had to buy gear anyhow. It was a couple years ago but I think between used leathers, a helmet I had, back protector, boots, Held Gloves, Under Armor (dont do it without it lol) I spent 1000-1200 on gear.


Watching people out there you can tell who can go fast in a straight line, park it in the corner, almost get run over, and then again twist the throttle until the next corner. Its fairly obvious.

And some roundy roundy insight.. Most Nascar or indy car drivers start out in go karts and or on dirt tracks. I wonder why they dont just start in stock cars?

Come corner work with us, make some money, learn the track, learn from others mistakes, and then go racing!

-Lou

I cold not have said it any better.

Everyone should have most of this gear anyways for the street.

In my prenovice noobishness, I'd deffinitely recommend a td or 3 to get comfy with the track first. That way when you go to penguin, you have an understanding of who shouldn't be there and you'll know to stay as far away as humanly possible. (hopefully in front).

I like Lou...
I had fun with 45hp passing a brand new R1 all over the place on my Penguin School. Resultant lap time were = Track days' vs no track days. It was easy to see in my experience.

[CEO]

I wouldnt count on the SV being cheap. I was thinking of moving to one next year of the year after for that reason and its really not much cheaper. The fast guys are doing 15s and 16s. Its a lot faster then either of us are running at the time and on a smaller tire. Sure they arent doing 10s but not many are. At that speed I dont think any racing is cheap. As for the ex. Sure its cheap to run. Its the budget racer for sure but I believe Jeff did a 16 on one No idea what the current guys are running as the NHMS new page is not as user friendly as the old results were.

That's at the top expert level though, like you said no racing is cheap at that level.

I think SV's are probably the cheapest 'real' race bikes up there (and maybe tards)... parts are plentiful and cheap and they don't eat tires unless you're doing those 15s and 16s, and they don't require the maintenance of a tard., but the tards do crash better.

And don't forget the cost of the initial bike... there's a big savings there.

[Doc]

That's at the top expert level though, like you said no racing is cheap at that level.

I think SV's are probably the cheapest 'real' race bikes up there (and maybe tards)... parts are plentiful and cheap and they don't eat tires unless you're doing those 15s and 16s, and they don't require the maintenance of a tard., but the tards do crash better.

Tards are not "real" racing. They are DIRTBIKES!!

See this is the problem. My Hawk isn't "real" racing, The EX500 isn't "real" racing.

[TheIglu]

See this is the problem. My Hawk isn't "real" racing, The EX500 isn't "real" racing.

Indy cars isn't "real" racing because it isn't 600's either.

[breakdirt916]

I've done a few track days, enjoyed them, glad that I'm not really riding on the street as much, and was considering racing after I got out of school and got some form of income.

Then I bought a dirt bike.

I ride it more times/year than I took my FZR to the track, and I can ride as fast and hard as I want.

You still have to do maintenance and junks but it's relatively cheap compared to track days!

[Rambunctous]

Tards are not "real" racing. They are DIRTBIKES!!

See this is the problem. My Hawk isn't "real" racing, The EX500 isn't "real" racing.

I agree. The only real racing is aboard a factory GP bike.

[csmutty]

I agree. The only real racing is aboard a factory GP bike.

At a good track. If you run at Loudon...you aren't for real.

[Chippertheripper]

I've done a few track days, enjoyed them, glad that I'm not really riding on the street as much, and was considering racing after I got out of school and got some form of income.

Then I bought a dirt bike.

I ride it more times/year than I took my FZR to the track, and I can ride as fast and hard as I want.

You still have to do maintenance and junks but it's relatively cheap compared to track days!

You're comparing apples and donuts. And fzr is nothing on maintanence either, and you can ride that as fast and as hard as you want on the track or the street, for that matter.

[Rambunctous]

At a good track. If you run at Loudon...you aren't for real.

Is Loudon a "bad track"? Are we all not "real" racers?

[Doc]

Is Loudon a "bad track"? Are we all not "real" racers?

I don't know about you but I consider myself a club racer. I tell people it is kinda like a local bowling league.

[butcher bergs]

Bergils. You could ride anything.

+ that was Scottie's 800, not your's. There is that caution factor don't cut yourself short....

Thank you, Gino. Much appreciated.

[OreoGaborio]

As for the ex. Sure its cheap to run. Its the budget racer for sure but I believe Jeff did a 16 on one No idea what the current guys are running as the NHMS new page is not as user friendly as the old results were.

I wanna say Jeff's best on an EX was a 1:17.7. And the current top Production Twins experts are (or were) running mid 21's. I think most of the top EX Mafia dogs have personal bests in the 20's. Not sure if any of them ever got down into the teens.

Maybe Mark Dages will chime in.

I don't know about you but I consider myself a club racer. I tell people it is kinda like a local bowling league.

Ha, I say it's like AAA baseball.

[Rambunctous]

CCS
ASRA
AMA
FIM
MotoGP

Is that the correct order of progression?

[zx1012r]

I wanna say Jeff's best on an EX was a 1:17.7. And the current top Production Twins experts are (or were) running mid 21's. I think most of the top EX Mafia dogs have personal bests in the 20's. Not sure if any of them ever got down into the teens.

Maybe Mark Dages will chime in.


Ha, I say it's like AAA baseball.

Yea dude, PB 21.2 on current track config, 20.4 on previous config. Jeff did a 17.7 I think. BJ did a high 19 years ago.

Ritchie musta lapped me last year on the motard

I'll be in the 19's this weekend for sure on the EX.

I say race what ya got!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

[Pittenger5]

Ritchie musta lapped me last year on the motard

Nah, you were on the SV for MWPT, so technically an EX rider beat me, but no EXs beat me haha

[zx1012r]

Nah, you were on the SV for MWPT, so technically an EX rider beat me, but no EXs beat me haha

Newman!

[fjrrider RI]

I just got ready for a track day and this is what happened. Got into it and had some fun looking.

added special frame sliders (650r ninja bike not slider ready) $175-my gf already dropped the bike and no damage except the spool ends and the bar ends scraped-great bike protection paid for itself already on the street
spools and stand $95- good way to work on rear anyhow
found a used vanson full suit ($500) was going to rent or go cheap but couldn't resist when I fit it
One track day paid up to start - need to find out if I am going to contiue $225
1 pair of Held Steve II gloves - $145 - best thing I ever bought - use every day now
pair of sidi m5 boots $200 - goretex waterproof touring and racing- will use to ride in the rain as well

so 1td & equipment total = $1,115 includes all the new toys
next td = $225 so a racing lisence would lower future cost but of course new toys or repairs would be expected

[tsorfas]

i know i brought that up a year later but here is the issue that this thread caused to me.
Im planning on getting into racing next year and iv been getting different advice from everyone..
I have been owning and riding sportbikes ONLY in the past 6 years. GSXRs 600s and 1000s mostly. My track bike currently is an 04 GSXR 600 (suspension + body done to it).
seems like it wouldnt be the perfect racing bike or what people are trying to say is that I will Not see podiums on that bike because of the amount of competition participating.
I have been doing ONLY track days so far and on my last one i saw some high 20s (very high). What I noticed about myself is as the level increased (novice - intermediate - expert) i was running better times, probably because i wasnt so focused on me but I was trying to keep up with the faster guys. This might be a horrible technique but it seemed to work to bring down my lap times. But as far as passing i was finding it easier to attempt it in the lower groups (clearly because of the difference in speed). so it is a weird combination.
But now that I want to get into racing and have many people suggesting EXs and SVs i see their points as far as keep cost down (big factor) but wouldnt it be a completely different riding technique? and wouldnt it make me "slower" therefor even less chances for podium and good times?
I might be 100% wrong I am asking questions hoping for answers.
Thank you in advance for your time and sharing your knowledge...

[Chippertheripper]

doc's typing a response right now that says novice podiums don't count...
now that that's out there, i've gotta tell you everyone's case is different. a "slower" bike is cheaper to run at first. easier on tires, yadda, yadda, yadda. eventually as you get faster, you'll start burning up tires real quick, and it gets more expensive.
if the grids are as small as they've been in novice, there's a real good chance you'll get a little taste of victory and automatically move up. especially at 20's. the autobump threshold for amateur is 23's in middleweight (600 i4's). unless you were talking about 28's and 29's as being "20's".

the other proponent for slower bikes is being able to hamfist the throttle without it flicking you like a snot, like a high powered machine might.

lrrs has made it real easy for racing noobs this year: do penguin. run the rr, and 3 races your first weekend with a xponder for $90. best deal going. (penguin cost separate)

[JudyGT]

Its always twice as much as you thought it was going to cost

I'll vouch for this...it also will cost your "significant other" if you have one...

[BrianC]

The 04' gixxer you ride should be fine for racing and will keep you plenty competitive well into amateur racing in my opinion. If you are running high 20's now, you'll be doing low 20's or better by the end of your 1st season if you are a decent learner/rider. There are some guys doing teens on old bikes and are on the podium in am. races. The cost for me running a stock r6 this season has averaged about 400 bucks/month doing 2 or 3 races per weekend. I used 2 sets of tires all season. Basically $200 for races and $200 for spending, gas, and food. I personally don't see any advantage to buying a lightweight bike except for maybe lower tire costs down the road. Some people say that learning to race on a twin is easier, but if you are already doing track days w/an inline then you should be fine.

i know i brought that up a year later but here is the issue that this thread caused to me.
Im planning on getting into racing next year and iv been getting different advice from everyone..
I have been owning and riding sportbikes ONLY in the past 6 years. GSXRs 600s and 1000s mostly. My track bike currently is an 04 GSXR 600 (suspension + body done to it).
seems like it wouldnt be the perfect racing bike or what people are trying to say is that I will Not see podiums on that bike because of the amount of competition participating.
I have been doing ONLY track days so far and on my last one i saw some high 20s (very high). What I noticed about myself is as the level increased (novice - intermediate - expert) i was running better times, probably because i wasnt so focused on me but I was trying to keep up with the faster guys. This might be a horrible technique but it seemed to work to bring down my lap times. But as far as passing i was finding it easier to attempt it in the lower groups (clearly because of the difference in speed). so it is a weird combination.
But now that I want to get into racing and have many people suggesting EXs and SVs i see their points as far as keep cost down (big factor) but wouldnt it be a completely different riding technique? and wouldnt it make me "slower" therefor even less chances for podium and good times?
I might be 100% wrong I am asking questions hoping for answers.
Thank you in advance for your time and sharing your knowledge...