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I would prefer to look like Melissa Paris. Then I could get naked and stay home and play with myself.
Last edited by Rambunctous; 05-12-10 at 07:21 AM.
This thread turned into a novel. I didn't realize the mw guys were running the 600s for cool factor. And I thought the hawk was the "cool" bike to ride. I know it ain't a buell...
In my prenovice noobishness, I'd deffinitely recommend a td or 3 to get comfy with the track first. That way when you go to penguin, you have an understanding of who shouldn't be there and you'll know to stay as far away as humanly possible. (hopefully in front). In the end, it's your $, so spend it as you please. Next year, to stay on the cheap, I'll be looking for an ex or a moturd.
Cliff's Cycles KTM
NETRA enduro B-vet
Close your eyes, look deep in your soul, step outside yourself and let your mind go.
Yea....I run a 600 to be Coool Fo Sure
LRRS EX 66
BostonMoto | Yoshimura | GoPro | K/N | Amsoil | Computrack | Vortex Sprockets |
EBC | Dunlop | Woodcraft | ArmourBodies | Fuel Clothing | Progrip | FmF Racing|
factoryeffex
Racing costs a lot. If you want to scrap it together and do it "cheap" it's possible but you're still looking at a ~5k investment.
Motorcycles are not cheap.... newsflash everyone.
If you want to race your MW, do it. In the long run it will cost you more. But hey, who gives a shit. It's just money. If that's the bike you like and want to race, you'll be fine. There are definitely a lot of LW fanboys here, so they will always be pushing that on you for whatever reasons they have, some accurate and helpful, some preachy and condescending.
A good note that I think Ryan Nicholson made is that it's hard to move up to a MW later in the game especially if you've gotten further up in the ranks, i.e. expert. You're just going to embarass yourself. Starting as a novice and getting down to back of the pack expert level times on a motard isn't terribly difficult, then if you suddenly decide you want to race a MW and have never raced one, you really don't have the option without practicing quite a bit first unless you want to be lapped by your own wave.
Not to call anyone out but since he's my boy, Richie is probably a good example... he's raced an EX and then moved up to the tard, he was going quite fast on the motard (22's I believe) and bumped to expert. At this point Richie do you think you could race a MW with the experts and keep up even with the back of the expert pack (doing 18's and 19's or so)? I think you'd need a lot of track time on it first, right?
And if I hear that douchey "rather ride a slow bike fast than fast bike slow" moniker again... *douchechills*
If you want cheap, an EX or maybe even an SV would be the cheap route.
Motards are cheap to race because of crashability and low tire usage, but the maintenance is heavy and winter rebuilds can be pricey (not to mention if you blow it up like I did to mine). Those motors simply were not meant to do what we do to them.
Last edited by CEO; 05-12-10 at 08:07 AM.
Zip-Tie Alley Racing
LRRS/CCS #103
PPS | Dunlop | Boston Moto | Woodcraft & Armour Bodies | 35 Motorsports | Pit Bull | K&N
Yeah, Chris. I fully understand. I'm comfy with dirty motors, so winter teardowns aren't super intimidating. And cheap crashability and tire usage is what will hopefully keep me in the game longer. But I'll certainly be making note that to be competitive on a mw i4, if that's what I want, there'll be a good learning curve. As a new racer, I want to stay away from the "meat grinder" that class is said to be.
Cliff's Cycles KTM
NETRA enduro B-vet
Close your eyes, look deep in your soul, step outside yourself and let your mind go.
It really isn't like that anymore for the most part. That name from what I understand applied more in past years with larger grids and more casual/newb folks coming into racing. I only made contact with another bike one or twice as a novice, and they were my fault, and no crash occurred. (I've also done it as an AM on my motard). There were only a couple NV races I saw last year where bikes were hit or taken out, and that can occur in all classes.
edit: also note that its more safe since butcher bergs is no longer a novice...![]()
Last edited by CEO; 05-12-10 at 08:26 AM.
Zip-Tie Alley Racing
LRRS/CCS #103
PPS | Dunlop | Boston Moto | Woodcraft & Armour Bodies | 35 Motorsports | Pit Bull | K&N
LRRS #399
MX #505
Fucks no, Im even a little nervous being an expert at a new track. Had I known Id be moving I'm not convinced I woulda bumped. Ok, I still wouldve. Had I known Id be moving and could afford to race, Im not convicned I woulda bumped.
But to expand on your point, I think its easier as far as classes to start big and move small if thats what you decide. However, I think (personally) technically its easier to start small and move up. Then you know the line, you learn all the nuances of things without going warp speed. And I think its easier to not make a big mistake on a small bike. I think too many people might start on a 600 and get burned out by the money, or if they have a big wreck or two from their lack of technical skills, then quit racing.
"I'd rather ride a slow bike fast than a fast bike slow"
Bikes: Ducati: 748 (Track) Honda: RC31 (Race/street)/ CRF 110 Mini Moto/ Hawk Endurance Racer Kawasaki: ZXR1200R
BOMO Instructor
EX# X
"I'd rather ride a slow bike fast than a fast bike slow"
Bikes: Ducati: 748 (Track) Honda: RC31 (Race/street)/ CRF 110 Mini Moto/ Hawk Endurance Racer Kawasaki: ZXR1200R
BOMO Instructor
EX# X
"I'd rather ride a slow bike fast than a fast bike slow"
Bikes: Ducati: 748 (Track) Honda: RC31 (Race/street)/ CRF 110 Mini Moto/ Hawk Endurance Racer Kawasaki: ZXR1200R
BOMO Instructor
EX# X
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I'd like to see "crashes per bike/lap" figures for ex500s versus i4's. Might surprise people.
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If you decide on an ex500, don't forget to factor in the cost of the oars you will need to buy.
Since the initial post was about costs of racing, I guess id turn that around and ask you "crashes per bike / cost to repair" for ex500s verses i4's. Can anyone possibly argue the average cost per repair on an EX500 crash is anywhere near that of an i4? Considering an entry level race prep EX500 can be had for $1500.
The reason I went the SV route when I was considering buying a track bike to potentially race was, in my mind an EX500 was a bike I could compete on in 1 class and then the other classes I could get out there but would be in the way. Where as an SV can compete in a lot more classes and thus I was less likely to "out grow" it. And entry level race prep was $2200 - 2500. **edit since I dont know enough about "classes" I will really swap this to, I think SV's give more options than EX500s do.**
I dont care which route anyone goes when they race 125s, 500s, 600, motards, just offering information that I think is helpful.
-Lou
Last edited by Loun; 05-12-10 at 09:25 AM.
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Good point. But also, more crashes, more potential for injury. I'm not saying any one solution is better, just that there are more factors than people are considering here.
I wouldnt count on the SV being cheap. I was thinking of moving to one next year of the year after for that reason and its really not much cheaper. The fast guys are doing 15s and 16s. Its a lot faster then either of us are running at the time and on a smaller tire. Sure they arent doing 10s but not many are. At that speed I dont think any racing is cheap. As for the ex. Sure its cheap to run. Its the budget racer for sure but I believe Jeff did a 16 on oneNo idea what the current guys are running as the NHMS new page is not as user friendly as the old results were.