Safety wiring

[gixxer72]

OK, so I now have a drill press, vice, some 1/16" cobalt bits and a supply of adult beverages. Planning to get started putting holes in fasteners tonight on the race bike (K7 600). I am drilling:

Caliper bolts
Oil Drain plug
Oil Fill cap
Axle pinch bolts

This list seems too short (I'll wire the oil filter, hitch pin on rear axle, grips later on).

What else do I need to / should I wire up? Thanks

[Pittenger5]

Anything that holds back any liquid, and anything you dont want falling off in the middle of a race.

[BLACK SQUIRREL]

Put a Big Hoseclamp on the oil filter And run a wire from the clam to the Frame.

Radiator Fill cap, And Water pump drain bolt.

Header Bolts?

Muffler Bolt?

Axle Bolts?

Check the Rulebook It should be online.

Or PM Senacake or someone else who raced the same bike and ask them, Kitt would be a good resource as well.

[Kurlon]

Exhaust bolts, exhaust clamp and mount
Axles and nuts
Radiator cap
All banjo bolts

[Jim]

Anything that holds back any liquid, and anything you dont want falling off in the middle of a race.

what about radiator & reservoir caps? i know you guys dont safety wire your brake res caps.

[gixxer72]

OK, maybe a stupid question but would this include the banjo bolts on your brake lines (OK to drill through those?)? I assume any oil lines that are bolted on is a good idea, what about things like clamps on radiator hoses, are those typically wired up? My current race bike seems to have just the bare minimum done so I guess I am wondering what's overkill, or any specific items in addition to what I listed above are needed. Thanks

Just saw the banjos listed, thanks Kurlon.

[Kurlon]

what about radiator & reservoir caps? i know you guys dont safety wire your brake res caps.

I don't safety wire my brake res, but I do wrap it with a sweat band which is zipty'd in place to act as a diaper should it start to leak.

[xsiliconkid]

OK, so I now have a drill press, vice, some 1/16" cobalt bits and a supply of adult beverages. Planning to get started putting holes in fasteners tonight on the race bike (K7 600). I am drilling:

Caliper bolts
Oil Drain plug
Oil Fill cap
Axle pinch bolts

This list seems too short (I'll wire the oil filter, hitch pin on rear axle, grips later on).

What else do I need to / should I wire up? Thanks

1/16' bits
Hope some = lots. those little suckers snap easy.

Exhaust fasteners....(bolts attached to frame/motor that stop exhaust parts from falling off), you should also safety wire any fluid hoses/connections such as coolant. Basically - anything if fluids come out it can get on your tires or spray backwards.

LRRS mandated a few years back the pin that holds the brake pads in be wires - normally just a little clip is on there.... basically to stop the pin falling out if the retaining clips goes...not sure they are still checking for that - but it IS a huge advantage to not have your pads fall out.

Oh and only water with water wetter added at the correct ratio is allowed. (not engine ice etc). Some anal nerd sometime checks coolant....me

[GixerJockey]

No one likes an anal nerd...

[xsiliconkid]

OK, maybe a stupid question but would this include the banjo bolts on your brake lines (OK to drill through those?)? I assume any oil lines that are bolted on is a good idea, what about things like clamps on radiator hoses, are those typically wired up? My current race bike seems to have just the bare minimum done so I guess I am wondering what's overkill, or any specific items in addition to what I listed above are needed. Thanks

Just saw the banjos listed, thanks Kurlon.

THe bottom line -
for tech - if you are a novice be prepared to be looked at very carefully.
for saftey - anything you feel could be a big problem coming loose.

[Fitz]

LRRS mandated a few years back the pin that holds the brake pads in be wires - normally just a little clip is on there.... basically to stop the pin falling out if the retaining clips goes...not sure they are still checking for that - but it IS a huge advantage to not have your pads fall out.

It makes sense but somehow I missed that for 2008 & 2009. Any recommendations on how to go about doing this?

Thanks!
Fitz

[VT-GSD]

Hi first post here. I am starting this process as well on my k6 750, got most of the stuff done. Where I get lost is on the fluid hoses. Is it safety wire around the hose itself and back to something or safety wire the clamp together so it cant open?

Also on the banjo bolts I printed the rule book and looking in the safety wire section it says "it is not advisable to wire hydraulic lines or banjo bolts"

So ???

Thank you.

[xsiliconkid]

I don't safety wire my brake res, but I do wrap it with a sweat band which is zipty'd in place to act as a diaper should it start to leak.

BE VERY CAREFUL with what you do around the brake res cap!

As we all know there is a diaphragm above the fluid separating the atmosphere from fluid.... allows for expansion and contraction of the fluid due to
- heat (water vapor that WILL build up in the fluid)
- pad wear

In the cap, normally on the side, there is a very small vent hole to let atmospheric pressure sit on top of the diaphragm... block this and you can end up with Hydraulic lock on the brakes - for some reason this happens in T7-8. I
have post crash looked at two bikes that crashed there - they had tape around the brake res cap and said all off a sudden front brake just LOCKED UP.

[Pittenger5]

but it IS a huge advantage to not have your pads fall out.

No one likes an anal nerd...

Turn 11 hurts when your brake pad falls out ... trust me.

[Pittenger5]

for some reason this happens in T7-8.

Also happened to me between 6-7.



So the moral of the story is, anything DB does, dont do.

[BLACK SQUIRREL]

Also happened to me between 6-7.



So the moral of the story is, anything DB does, dont do.

Me to, No tape involved

[Jim]

Oh and only water with water wetter added at the correct ratio is allowed. (not engine ice etc). Some anal nerd sometime checks coolant....me

engine ice isnt allowed for racing?

[xsiliconkid]

No one likes an anal nerd...

I tend to agree....
but a many-bike-pile-up in T7 this past season due to someone dumping antifreeze is probably worse - ...hence starting to ask the question and random checking ( with a very quick 100% reliable test) in tech --- you would be surprised (or maybe not) how many folks had antifreeze, and in one case 100% water wetter.... doh!
while I hated to do it - they were turned away from tech until fixed-most understood.

And again engine ice is antifreeze -it is allowed in a couple of other US race series...hmmm they also were a sponsor of that series...
We did test engine ice and it's as slippery as the old antifreeze..... anything with glycol is a problem
-Propylene Glycol may be non toxic but it is slippery
- Ethylene Glycol also just happens to be sweet, toxic, and deadly
BTW I would not recommend drinking either - for a while after testing I did not drink anything at the track that had green, red or purple coloring

[xsiliconkid]

Also on the banjo bolts I printed the rule book and looking in the safety wire section it says "it is not advisable to wire hydraulic lines or banjo bolts"

So ???

Thank you.

Correct safety wire stops unwinding of bolts etc not the just coming loose. Less then a 1/8 turn on the banjo bolts and you have already lost your hydraulics...on the other hand with oil lines.... it is better to stop oil pouring out faster.:

I wire around the clamp bolt to the frame so it can't loosen

[xsiliconkid]

It makes sense but somehow I missed that for 2008 & 2009. Any recommendations on how to go about doing this?

Thanks!
Fitz

the quickest way to explain is with a photo - will post one shortly as to the easiest way to do it.

[VT-GSD]

Thank you xsiliconkid. That is kind of what I was thinking.
now I can continue getting ready for my first race few more things and I think I am ready to go.

Alex

[CBR929RE]

decent write up here http://www.rc51.org/wire1.htm
doesn't show hoses being wired though.

[xsiliconkid]

It makes sense but somehow I missed that for 2008 & 2009. Any recommendations on how to go about doing this?

Thanks!
Fitz

I just wire around the pin (on inside of caliper) and then loop to the outside and around the outside of the pin....all you are doing is stopping the pin from extracting, should the small clip come out (they are very weak and lose tension over time and do fall out).
see pic for how to

You only need to do one pin per per pad set.

the other way is to drill the flat spot on the pad retaining pin - but first you need to grind off the case hardening - this is pain (or purchase predilled pins) and wire to the calipers.

[CBR929RE]

and for the pad pins http://www.probolt-usa.com/Products/...liper_Pad_Pins
been meaning to order a set myself

[Rambunctous]

After I go thru tech I remove the brake pads, levers, cables, and foot lever. Saves me thirty pounds.