Anybody using Full Synthetic Oil..

[Murph]

I've got extra Full Synthetic Mobil One that I bought for my BMW...the only difference I see is the viscocity being SM instead of SE...any issues using this in my bike?

[ptk-napalm]

If you have a wet clutch & the oil says "saves gas" don't use it! Because it has some "friction modifiers" in it that will make your clutch slip.

It needs to say that it is "JASMO" type oil.

If you have a dry clutch forget the above.

[Tricky Mike]

Edit: what ^^he said...

If it is "Energy Conserving" (it likely is) then, yes... There are potential issues. It's a wet-clutch no-no. Mobil1 had one viscosity (15/50?) without the friction modifiers... not sure if that's still the case.

[Pigman]

NO.....NEVER

[Tricky Mike]

also be aware that asking this question can break the internet.

[Murph]

Thanks...that would have sucked...My buddies all said they run the same oil they use in their trucks...Is it just the synthetic that has the friction modifiers?

[Tabby]

So far as I know the M1 15W-50, still doesn't have the friction modifiers. The "diesel" oils don't have any either, if I remember correctly. Two good examples would be the Shell "T6" Rotella {5W-40}, and the M1 5W-40 Turbo-Diesel {I think that's the name}. Just a couple of options if you are looking for a non-M/C specific oil.
I use the M1 15-50 in my 86 GSXR, and 93 GSX1100G, and I use the M1 T-D 5-40, in my daughter's 91 400 Bandit.

[Wanderer]

Bear in mind, all the above regarding clutch slippage is of course if you have a wet clutch.

If its a dry clutch, go for it

[Murph]

I was running 20w50 in my bike...I've got a case of the Mobil1 10w30. I think I'd be better off using the regular 20w50 in my bike...I kinda feel like a idiot because when I bought it I thought" I can use what left over in the bikes"...guess not...

[Kitt]

also be aware that asking this question can break the internet.

[toocrazy2yoo]

I've got extra Full Synthetic Mobil One that I bought for my BMW...the only difference I see is the viscocity being SM instead of SE...any issues using this in my bike?

The SM isn't viscosity. SM is the rating that defines the level of additives such as ZDDP (zinc) and phosphorus. Those additives are important if you share oil with the tranny/gearbox. Bike oils are typically SF, SG or SJ these days, synthetic or not. Running automotive oil in SM frequently results in 2nd gear failures in bikes, amongst others. The reason ZDDP is limited in SM-rated automotive oils is that modern engines don't really need all the additive. Following that, the engineers, considering ZDDP a contaminent, regard that the lower the levels of ZDDP in motor oils, the longer the catalytic converter lasts. So by all means run it, but gearboxes with the loads they carry, especially the lower gears, do need the stuff.

[Stromper]

Just 35 years

[Murph]

So some of you use it and haven't had a problem and the rest say I'm asking for trouble..? My buddy uses regular automotive oil in his bikes and doesn't seem to have a problem...

[toocrazy2yoo]

So some of you use it and haven't had a problem and the rest say I'm asking for trouble..? My buddy uses regular automotive oil in his bikes and doesn't seem to have a problem...

You can trust the guys that built the bike. My NighthawkS lost second gear in two oil changes of M-1 in SL (the grade available when I did that) and it cost a bit to split the cases and replace it. I never ran anything but SF/SG again, it ran another 50,000 miles without issue. Hey, ya never mentioned, what kinda bike? In liquid-cooled, dual cam multi-valve bikes, you won't hurt the engine, but it's the tranny that presents a problem. Ever smell manual transmission/gear oil? That heavy smell is the ZDDP and/or phosphorous they put in. High pressure lubricants. It plates the gears over a bit of time. Now even motorcycle oil certified SF/SG/SH with lots of additive doesn't have as much zinc as gear oil, but at 1200-1400>ppm vs. <800 PPM of SM/GF-4 auotomotive oils, and some of those are only 400 or 500PPM, there's a big difference. Stick to the JASO standard and what your manufacturer wants, this oughtn't ever be a problem.

Even old-style muscle cars, single-cam big blocks, many of them have been ruined over the years running modern SM/GF-4 motor oils because the cams and valves are subjected to temendous stress-those engines NEED old-style motor oils because they need the zinc. The cam lobes get wiped. Actually, moly used to be a good substitute for the zinc and it was fashionable to add lots of moly, but that's awful stuff to a wet clutch, unless of course, you like a slipping clutch.

Ah well. Enough.

[Murph]

I ran out and picked up the right oil tonight...Its a 02 ZX9R..I figured its not worth trying to save a few bucks.I'll save the synthetic for the Bimmers next oil change.Autozone had a whole shelf full of bike oil so I feel a idiot.

[ptk-napalm]

Bear in mind, all the above regarding clutch slippage is of course if you have a wet clutch.

If its a dry clutch, go for it

I said that.

[ptk-napalm]

So far as I know the M1 15W-50, still doesn't have the friction modifiers. The "diesel" oils don't have any either, if I remember correctly. Two good examples would be the Shell "T6" Rotella {5W-40}, and the M1 5W-40 Turbo-Diesel {I think that's the name}. Just a couple of options if you are looking for a non-M/C specific oil.
I use the M1 15-50 in my 86 GSXR, and 93 GSX1100G, and I use the M1 T-D 5-40, in my daughter's 91 400 Bandit.

I heard that also, on another forum. You buy it by the gallon & it is really cheaper (Rotella) I have never tried it, but I have at least 6 members that I know of that swear by it.

[gregp]

I recently bought some Rotella (non-synth) 15w-40 and put it in a Ninja 250 and my DR650. It has the JASO DH-2 spec. Both bikes never shifted better. There was a very significant improvement on the DR's 1st-2nd gear engagement.
I think it was about $11 a gallon. I was kind of shocked at the improvement in shifting over standard 10w40 motor oil. I will probably stick with it until I blow a motor. Then I will blame it on the oil.

[island boyeee]

i just switched from M1 full synth 10w-30 to the Shell Rotella T6 10W-40, for my car. didn't realize it was ok to use with the high RPMs of the motorcycle world.

i've been using the Mobil 4T in my bike for the last year

[Stromper]

When break in is over I am Rotella Sythetic Diesel Bound

Look but most oils 10w-40 or heavier are NOT mileage oils bad for your clutch

[KB]

You should get a few guys and lift it up.

KB

[The Snowman]

You should get a few guys and lift it up.

I'd prefer a crane, myself.

[Kham]

also how often to change oil. full synth for me and whenever i feel like it.

[Evil_Weasel]

i caused myself a slipping clutch on a Kawi 12R by using the fancy castrol synthetic car oil. i assure you using the wrong oil can screw up your wet clutch so go with what the manufacturer (smart little asian engineers) say. or at least something moto specific when using synthetics.

and yes i did save the clutch after flushing with the correct oil, doing short rides, than flushing some more. took about 500 miles and 3 oil changes for the clutch to be 100% normal again.

[markbvt]

Motorcycle oils exist for a reason. They are not bullshit. The additive packages are significantly different from car oils, in particular the anti-shear additives. Since a modern motorcycle's motor oil also lubricates its transmission, the oil is easily broken down by gear mesh; the anti-shear additives combat this.

I once tried running Mobil 1 automotive oil in my Triumph. After 2500 miles, it was shifting rough. An oil change with Mobil 1 motorcycle oil netted a much smoother-shifting and smoother-running bike, and it stayed that way for the 3000 miles until my next oil change. Made a believer out of me.

--mark