RVT

[OreoGaborio]

Gonna go pick some up tomorrow so i can install my water pump on the EX5... i was told by a reputable source that it'll be fine to use in place of the two paper gaskets.

With that said, I'm sure there will be instructions on the tube but is there any need to prep the surfaces w/ anything other than wd40? any other suggestions that'll enure a good seal?

Just coverin all the bases.

[FireFly]

Thats the same stuff I used on my exhaust leak. just incase, make sure its high temp rated. just make sure the surfaces are clean and put a nice even bead around the contact points without overdoing it, to avoid that stuff from splooging inside the assembly. I don't know if it would be that big of a deal but I know I wouldn't want a chunk of that goop floating around in the motor

[Tricky Mike]

Ah, nothing to it. Just clean the surfaces up real good with contact cleaner, brake cleaner, alcohol, or anything that dissolves grease and doesn't leave a film. Follow the directions on the tube and you should be fine..... buuuut, I can't resist the urge to muddy the waters...
With that said, you might consider using Loc-Tite 515. I've used it several times on the upper cylinder head on the KTM. Works really well in the absence of a gasket (which doesn't exist on the ktm in this case). It's "anaerobic" so it cures when confined between close metal surfaces in the absence of air.

LocTite 515 Data PDF Linky.. enter 515 in the box

Don't know what kind of surfaces you're dealing with (are there gaps of any significance betwen the motor and pump?) but if the fit is good, 515 would probably work really well (much better than RVT in my opinion).

One last thought... just make sure those 2 gaskets aren't intended to provide additional clearance... so that fitting the part without them doesn't cause things to line up all goofy or doesn't give a pump impeller enough room, etc.


PS... Just buy the frickin gaskets, you Cheap Bastid!

[Paul_E_D]

yamabond is good. Don't use wd40. Nothing will stick to it!

[beet]

.

[ancosta]

You mean RTV silicone?

You can use either red or blue for a water pump but I always use red (high temp).

I clean surfaces but I would use lacquer thinner or some other highly evaporative cleaner that will not leave a residue, like WD-40 will. Xylene, Acetone, brake & electric parts cleaner, etc.

When I do gaskets I coat both surfaces, one with at least a fine but solid film, the other with a bit more of a bead to it. (if there's an actual gasket being used then I do a light coat equal on both hard parts vs. thicker coating)

Let it setup for a few minutes before you join the two surfaces together, not so that it skins over but it will help the bonding. Also be sure when you tighten the surface you do it smoothly/equally, close to your final torque but wait to do final torque until the silicone has had a good few hours to setup. Also if you are not sure on the mating up of parts, etc. it's good to do a mock setup with the surfaces clean & dry so that way you aren't fudging around with goo if it doesn't go well. Chase dirty threads of bolts that may have crap on them, etc.

With that approach you can use just RTV to form gasket surfaces on parts where you'd normally need a gasket.

[SVRACER01]

USE HONDA BOND

[OreoGaborio]

I used RTV Blue last Saturday... read the packaging & follwed the directions, should be good to go. Cleaned up the surfaces really good w/ Brake cleaner, put it together, let it sit for a while, fired it up & let it run for a little bit (didn't want to let it get up to temp till it completely cured)..... no leaks whatsoever.

[FireFly]

Originally posted by SVRACER01
USE HONDA BOND

Agree 100% over the the yamabond. I dunno if I posted it here or on another site but, back when I had an oil leak issue from the clutch side of the crank case, i used yamabond( which is supposed to be pretty much the same) and The shit never cured, IT was a bad batch. Had to drain the oil the next day all over again$$, clean that crap off the mating surfaces and redo the whole thing. I didnt use the silicone hondabond instead I used the hondabond4 I think, Knock on wood, I've had no problems so far. If I hadn't been in such a rush I would of used the honda bond that takes longer to cure but i used the quick curing stuff instead. The quick curing honda bond is temp resistant i think to about 300 degrees. Its not as high temp resistant as the reg. hondabond but it seems to be working out just fine. Dealerships sometimes use the hondabond4 because you can slap the bike back together and go riding within a half hour. If I have any issues in the future, I'll redo it with the higher temp. honda bond and wait the 24 hours for it to cure.

[Half Squid]

I have an RVT but you can't use it..

I was wondering what the heck this topic could be about when I saw you posted about an RVT.

Dumbass.....