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OK so....
I am sick of wimpy motorcycle headlights. I have retrofit two 2.5in bi xenon projector beams. It will be amazing since I have tested the headlight and it makes basically daylight on the road with a super sharp cutoff at the top.
The problem is this.
I have 2 pos and 2 neg wires for the lights to light them up plus 2 pos and 2 neg to power the servo to open the trap door to make them high beam.
My stock light setup on my VTR1000 has only an H4 socket which provides one constant ground as well as pos 12v for low then pos 12v for high beam.
How do I use the stock HI/LOW beam switch for this. ??
My only solution was to provide constant 12 to the lights with a tap off the headlight fuse then use the power from the high beam for the trap door high beam.
Anyone have any ideas to help?
Can I put a diode (one way electric valve) to let both hi and lo beam power but not back bleed the power into the system?
I am gonna try to put the way I did this on utube as it is an amazing ugrade.
Last edited by smokinjoe; 05-30-24 at 09:35 AM.
Sounds like you might need a relay or 2. You'll need to know how much power each light and the shutter is pulling. You can probably just use 2 relays, one for low beams and another for high beams and the shutters.
2023 KTM 890 Adventure R
Seems like you could just use the high beam 12v to open the shutter. Low beam 12v to power the light itself. Tie the grounds together.
With a stock H4 bulb, the low beam shuts off when high beam switches on (to keep heat down, and so it’s not drawing 55+60 watts)
This will work. You can put a switch in-line if you want to be able to turn the headlights off entirelyMy only solution was to provide constant 12 to the lights with a tap off the headlight fuse then use the power from the high beam for the trap door high beam.
Easiest and cleanest option, IMO, is to buy a bixenon headlight harness which will include the relay and control box to take the three wire signal from the bike and alter it to perform as you need, supplying constant power to the bulbs and switched power to the high beam shutters.
Something like this: https://www.amazon.com/XtremeVision-..._source=1&th=1
Last edited by golden chicken; 05-30-24 at 10:33 AM.
What's the difference between a bolt and a screw?
First you screw, then you bolt.
Hey so GC that would be a great idea and I actually have one of those units but they are actually a ballast for an HID bulb that needs a giant jolt of juice to get going.
The projectors I have only need 12 volts but yeah I do need to isolate the circuits.
If I could find a similar unit that doesnt have a ballast and volt shock then Id grab it in a second.
Wait, so you have halogen bulbs inside projectors with a shade that you want the bulbs on constant and the shades to move with high beam?
The harness part that comes with HID ballast is all 12V, it's only after the ballast that becomes high voltage. You may need to change the connectors to fit the bulbs and shade, but it should do exactly what you need it to.
Last edited by golden chicken; 05-30-24 at 05:46 PM.
What's the difference between a bolt and a screw?
First you screw, then you bolt.
No so these are bi-xenon LED COB based projectors https://www.ebay.com/itm/404548190442
I just dont know how to do the high beam on off thing without using an extra switch.
12V low beam wire to LED low beam wires, ground to ground. 12V high beam wire to 12V LED high beam wires and shutter wires, ground to ground. You can essentially tie all grounds together. That's also assuming you know the amperage is not going to exceed the stock wiring...~55W per 12V wire? That's ~4.5A max per 12V wire.
2023 KTM 890 Adventure R
What's the difference between a bolt and a screw?
First you screw, then you bolt.
Yeah GC that is what I concluded I would do today. Simplest with the least moving parts.