gotta clean the carbs....

[black]

so the bike was running wierd today... it would suge and stop..

The bike sat in the garage all witner with gass so i'm sure the carbs are gunked up..
How easy is it to clean the carbs. i hate messing with carbs

I took a peek and one of the carbs, float bowls is dirty like its been leaking gas for a few months..

it s a 2000 zx6r... carbs are easy to get to...

[2FASTZX10R]

The hardest part of cleaning the carbs are getting to them, since you said yours are easy to get to, then you shouldnt have a problem. Take them out and open up the bowls, clean them with carb cleaner spray, also take out the jets and spray them with the cleaner. If you cant see through the jets, then they are clogged also. Get a sewing needle or safety pin and put it through the jets to clean them out, if they are still dirty put them in some boiling water for about 5 minutes and try again. Paint thinner also works good to unclog them.

[Honclfibr]

Few things...

If one of your float bowls is leaking, it's most likely that the gasket between the float bowl and the carb body is damaged. These are cheap parts and you might as well order four and replace them all. Fire bad.

While you're at it, you'll probably need some new float bowl screws, as the stock ones are loctited on darn good. Most Jet kits come with aftermarket allen head screws to replace the stripped bolts after you remove them. These are Good Things.

If you decide to remove the jet needle, you will find once you remove the slide covers that the needle held in place in the slide by a small off-white (as opposed to the black slide) retaining clip. This clip can be removed with a pair of pliers (it's a bit snug but just pull up) but be careful as there is a tiny spring between the clip and needle which holds the needle in the slide. Don't lose the spring.

Between the needle and the slide are a spring and a plastic "donut". Remember the order they went on and replace them in that order, they affect your midrange a/f mixture so don't lose them.

If you stack an additional small washer between your needle and the slide, this will lift the needle more in the jet and richen your A/F mixture at part throttle. This could smooth out the flat spot at around 7krpm due to kawasaki over-leaning the mixture to pass EPA regulations. Or it could make your bike run like shit, depending on how large a washer you use. Caveat Emptor.

If you want to adjust your idle jet ratio, you'll need to drill out the
brass metal caps that cover the mixture screws. Use a drill just slightly smaller than the cap, and go gingerly, as soon as the drill pushes through the cap stop drilling so you don't drill out your mixture screw. Then reverse the drill and the caps will pull right out. The idle screws can be adjusted with the carburetors on the bike, so probably dont' screw with them for the moment, just tap out the caps.

The jets are held threaded into the float bowls and have hex heads. Use a socket or wrench, the jets are made of soft metal and are easy to strip/damage with pliers.

Ummm I think that's it....Lemme know if you got any other ?'s, I've had these carbs apart a few times now, and the last time I didn't even lose any parts

[gsxrjack]

Originally posted by Honclfibr
Few things...

If one of your float bowls is leaking, it's most likely that the gasket between the float bowl and the carb body is damaged. These are cheap parts and you might as well order four and replace them all. Fire bad.

While you're at it, you'll probably need some new float bowl screws, as the stock ones are loctited on darn good. Most Jet kits come with aftermarket allen head screws to replace the stripped bolts after you remove them. These are Good Things.

If you decide to remove the jet needle, you will find once you remove the slide covers that the needle held in place in the slide by a small off-white (as opposed to the black slide) retaining clip. This clip can be removed with a pair of pliers (it's a bit snug but just pull up) but be careful as there is a tiny spring between the clip and needle which holds the needle in the slide. Don't lose the spring.

Between the needle and the slide are a spring and a plastic "donut". Remember the order they went on and replace them in that order, they affect your midrange a/f mixture so don't lose them.

If you stack an additional small washer between your needle and the slide, this will lift the needle more in the jet and richen your A/F mixture at part throttle. This could smooth out the flat spot at around 7krpm due to kawasaki over-leaning the mixture to pass EPA regulations. Or it could make your bike run like shit, depending on how large a washer you use. Caveat Emptor.

If you want to adjust your idle jet ratio, you'll need to drill out the
brass metal caps that cover the mixture screws. Use a drill just slightly smaller than the cap, and go gingerly, as soon as the drill pushes through the cap stop drilling so you don't drill out your mixture screw. Then reverse the drill and the caps will pull right out. The idle screws can be adjusted with the carburetors on the bike, so probably dont' screw with them for the moment, just tap out the caps.

The jets are held threaded into the float bowls and have hex heads. Use a socket or wrench, the jets are made of soft metal and are easy to strip/damage with pliers.

Ummm I think that's it....Lemme know if you got any other ?'s, I've had these carbs apart a few times now, and the last time I didn't even lose any parts

very good info, ive had different carbs apart hundreds of times over the years and its reall a peice of cake...hardest part i agree is getting the carbs off and getting the bowls off with those dam phillips head screws....

one thing, be carefull getting carb cleaner on the rubber diaphram on the slide,,,,ive had some carb cleaners sort of melt the rubber and its no good any more, had to be replaced...take the slide right out with the rubber diaphram and spray away and use air to blow all the jets out.....