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Heres the possible issue. Is it normal for a little bit of brake fluid to sweat from around the bleed valve, right after refilling and bleeding?? Were talking about a tiny amount. It seems to happen every time I put the rubber cap back on the valve. I wiped it out and flossed around the valve. But it happened again as soon as I put the cap back on ???? It looks like its comeing up from the threads. but im not sure. Keep in mind, this is a tiny amount ( its not dripping down or anything) I just dont want this to be the beginning of a bigger problem later on. Any advice suggestions. If it is the valve threads, I guess i could use teflon tape , no?? Thanks guys![]()
I would highly recommend NOT using teflon tape on brake lines, heres one reason why
taken from British Motoring
I installed new brake lines and some of the joints are leaking. Is it okay to use plumbers’ Teflon tape to seal the joints? Will the tape be attacked by brake fluid? I’ve tightened the connections as much as I dare without damaging the nuts.
—Steve Reeves
Never, ever use Teflon tape as a sealing medium for anything other than pipe-thread applications. Pipe threads jam as you thread the pipes together, and the only seal is offered by the jammed threads. Teflon tape and other pipe dopes are designed specifically for lubricating and sealing this type of connection in applications such as domestic gas lines, some oil-pressure fittings, etc.
In almost all instances, brake systems seal on the pipe seat, not on the threads. (One exception is some brake pressure switches, which employ pipe thread.) Using Teflon tape to seal non-pipe-thread fittings is asking for trouble—the primary seating surface is designed to handle the sealing pressures. If these seats are not secure, Teflon tape on the threads may mask the problem at low pressure and fail without warning under high-pressure or emergency use.
Teflon tape or liquid pipe dope can be a useful thread lubricant in some situations when connection threads are damaged or corroded to prevent the threads from galling further. An example of this would be oil cooler lines, which do have problems with corrosion between the alloy cooler fitting and steel line fitting. In this case, the Teflon lubricates and protects the threads from external moisture.
If you’ve replaced the brake lines, break the leaking ones and check to make sure that the seating surfaces are in good condition with no cracks or scarring. Use a pipe-fitting (“line”) wrench (these grab all of the nuts’ shoulders and are available from Sears and many auto-parts stores) and retighten the fittings. Hopefully with the correct tool you will have less of a worry of damaging the nuts
Firefly,
I had the exact same problem on my 2006 gsxr-750:
Odd brake caliper air bleeder valve leak? - Gixxer.com
What I did was I kept popping on and off the dust cap until all the fluid stopped coming out. Basically to make a long story short is that some air bleeders have holes at the bottom of them (on the side) which causes the excess brake fluid to drain out through the threading of the caliper. The excess fluid is the brake fluid that sits in the hollow area of the air bleeder after you tighten it (see picture in my gixxer.com thread).
I freaked out when I saw it leaking out because on my old CBR once the bleeder was tighened up, nothing came out anywhere.
Last edited by Billy; 03-25-07 at 10:52 AM.
Dude, I just read the thread. I thought that might have been the reason for the leaking because im pretty good about sticking to Factory specs (torquing etc..). I thought I was gonna get bashed for this thread. Thanks for shedding some light on the topic.![]()
No problem man. We're all here to help each other out.