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I need to do some basic maintenance that I haven't done before, and I have some questions.
1. What is the deal with converting to a 520 chain for an SV? Is this a "must do" for a race bike? Do I need anything other than new sprockets to make this happen? I already need a new chain and rear sprocket, so this is probably the time to do it.
2. I also need new brake pads. I figure I should probably get something a bit fancier than stock since it is now a pure race bike. Any suggestions? I know nothing about race brake pads, going to start googling/looking on SVrider. I currently feel like I need to use a lot of force when braking (3, maybe even 4 fingers), I would like to be able to use 2 fingers.
Thanks in advance.
If you are going to go to 520 you need new 520 width front and rear sprockets to match the new chain. for pads on the SV check out DP Brakes. I like their pads good feel and stopping power. other people really like Vesrah as an option
https://www.facebook.com/LRRSBT1R #54 EX 2007 SV650 "Work hard. Play harder. Die broke and happy!" Boston Tier 1 Racing Pirelli Tires Woodcraft-CFM Armorbodies Penguin Racing School Vortex Shorai Batteries DP Brakes Riders Discount SIDI Leatt
Unless your pads are way toast or really junky braking force isn't going to change much unless you change your master. It's pricey, I did mine, but I'm not in love with my new accasato. The stock seemed to feel better to me, even if it was a harder pull. 520 chains won't make a noticeable difference, but the is no reason not to do it. The whole setup will be a bit lighter, and if you need a chain and rear sprocket you may as well get the front to match and go 520.
Brake pads seem to be a personal decision. Some people love how one pad feels and hate another, and vice-versa. I ran EBC HH pads last season, and I tried the oh so special Carbone Lorain cl59s in the first round. I can't tell much difference, except maybe the CL are a tad more bitey initially. I will go back to EBCs when it's time. They only way to know what you like with that stuff is to try it out.
Edit: do yourself a favor an go 15-46 until you hit the limiter with that setup. Then go back to a 45.
I don't understand the chain swap thing. But then you are just as experienced a racer as I.
Brake pads are like oil, everyone has their favorites. I believe I have Vesrah pads in mine. Brakes have been great by my math. Very confident. Very good feel. At least in my limited experience.
I was just about to replace them with a set of the CL C59 pads. Although I just got an email that they are at least 2 weeks out. So probably not so much for May.
44 is too low rear gearing for the SV is either 45 or 46. 46 reportedly offers a better drive out of turns if you arent good at carrying corner speed
https://www.facebook.com/LRRSBT1R #54 EX 2007 SV650 "Work hard. Play harder. Die broke and happy!" Boston Tier 1 Racing Pirelli Tires Woodcraft-CFM Armorbodies Penguin Racing School Vortex Shorai Batteries DP Brakes Riders Discount SIDI Leatt
THIS! I ran this setup on my G1 and never went to 45 rear, unless I was doing NJMP. I was running low 18's and hit a couple of high 17's with it. This setup also allows you to go through the bowl without the need to downshift on and upshift out ( a HUGE selling point, IMO!)
As for chain pitch, if you're doing the whole kit and kaboodle, save yourself some weight and convert to 520.
Brake pads (all subjective), I used Carbone Lorraine CL-60 pads, distributed by spieglerusa.com (I also use their SS brake lines). Great initial bite and the whole braking range, with no fade, even in a GTL.
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Brian, did you ever try the 46 rear, as I suggested?
Do I need to get a different number of links to account for the added sprocket teeth? If I use the same length chain, this will reduce my effective swingarm length, decreasing rear ride height slightly, correct?
You're gonna make this into more than it needs to be. New 520 chain and sprocketS 15-45 or 46 if you're a stuntah. Buy quality, rivet that shit, do it once and don't think about it again.
Brake pads are like tires, all different brands and everybody has a different opinion. Most manufacturers have a range from $15 junk up to $150 stops like an anchor while glowing red hot. Racier = grippier = lasts less. Good race pads will give you less lever effort because they have a higher coefficient of friction. Changing to a higher grade of fluid (if old stuff in there now), deglazing the rotors, cleaning/rebuilding the calipers/slides, cleaning/lubing the lever pivot and where it pushes the piston, changing to braided lines, will each give small increases in stopping power and feel. I think rotors and a master cylinder are very expensive upgrades with not much return at LW AM NHMS speeds. I use EBC EPFA pads and they grip pretty hard. I bought an Accosatto master, and thought the stocker wasn't too bad in retrospect.
99 + 02 SV650 ex-race - 91 FJ1200 street - 03 KDX220R woods - 12 WR450F motard/ice
Hmm.. a sprocket will make me faster eh?
I run a 46, I like it lots
Ducati/MV Agusta/Kawasaki/Beta
#277
Boston Tier 1 Racing/ Fishtail Instructor
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Peer pressure is a helluva thing. I just ordered a 46t sprocket. Let's see what that does.
I really will try anything once.
I really did think the gen 2's just had motor on me.
Because they are more expensive?!
Email me or message me or something before round 2 and I'll be sure and pack the chain tool. I don't normally pack that.
Turns out buying the tubing with the spring clips and a nice cap wasn't that expensive. STG had a nice all-in-one kit. I piggy-backed it on another order I was placing anyway. Will be nice to do away with the ghetto hose clamp setup I have now.
If I'm not careful, this fugly duckling of mine is going to almost look presentable.
Quick, let me crash it!
Last edited by OreoGaborio; 05-05-15 at 11:32 AM.
-Pete
NEMRR #81 - ECK Racing
Cyclesmith Track Days
Woodcraft | MTag-Pirelli | OnTrack Media
'03 Tuono | '06 SV650 | '04 CRF250X | '24 Aprilia Tuareg
I'm having trouble finding the chain I want (DID ERV3) with less than 120 links. Is it hard to chop links out?
I bought DID ERV3 with 120. Not difficult to remove links with the right tool. I opted to keep as many links as possible. This would allow to go +1 in the rear at some point (I'm on 45 teeth in the back) without compromising the chain. I did Rd1 and last 2 days like this and no problem. I think I ended up removing 6 links? I also kept the links and bought spare master rivet links if I needed to put more back in.
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