careless mistakes piss me ooooooffffff!

[Paul_E_D]

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/KX250...s#ht_500wt_836

Looks like the cam caps are two piece though... might be cheap enough to monkey with?

Different head.

[Kurlon]

I'd pin it in a couple spots, the mesh couldn't hurt either. Cook it in the oven for a bit before you do anything to cook out any oil residue that'd hinder the epoxy's adhesion.

[Paul_E_D]

If I go the epoxy route, I think I should bolt it to the head with everything in place first. That way it's absolutely where it wants to be before I seal it.

[Expat]

Looking at your photo, if it is bolted in 4 places either side of the crack, wont each pair of bolts work independantly?
I would bolt it all up and run the engine through a heat cycle on the stand then pop the lid off and see if anything looks to have moved. Heat should close up the crack, not open it so if there was any movement you would probably see oil residue in the crack area. I wouldnt try welding for fear of distortion which could lead to excessive wear. I don't think epoxy would have much effect in this situation.

[butcher bergs]

The only thing I can see with regards to using JB Weld or some other epoxy-type adhesive is for the sole purpose of adding support where the valve cover would bolt down. Otherwise, it's not going to offer much for the bearing surfaces since there are bolts located adjacent to the bearings.

[Paul_E_D]

The only thing I can see with regards to using JB Weld or some other epoxy-type adhesive is for the sole purpose of adding support where the valve cover would bolt down. Otherwise, it's not going to offer much for the bearing surfaces since there are bolts located adjacent to the bearings.

exactly. I was thinking it might prevent vibration from opening the crack and allowing the valve cover to leak...

[Expat]

The only thing I can see with regards to using JB Weld or some other epoxy-type adhesive is for the sole purpose of adding support where the valve cover would bolt down. Otherwise, it's not going to offer much for the bearing surfaces since there are bolts located adjacent to the bearings.

That is my point, the bridge locks down the cams so the 4 bolts do the work, I don't see any structural purpose to the bridge,I am guessing it was probably cheaper to cast one piece and machine it all at the same time rather than deal with another component during manufacture.

[gregp]

Yup. The cam caps and the head are line bored as an assembly.

[Paul_E_D]

Well, Of my 3 options: 1. jb weld it and keep an eye on it 2. Send it out with the head to be welded and line bored 3. Get a new head altogether

I chose option #1. I feel pretty strongly that the crack is in a non critical location and will not effect the running of the bike. It went back together like butter and all the valves check out perfect. I essentially just cleaned it, burned of any oil, an painted the crack with JBweld. The bottom of the casting has some good contours so the epoxy should actually add a lot of strength as it fills in valleys etc. the top is just smooth, but I welded that too.

I'm gonna run it a couple of times out in the back here and inspect it. After that I'm gonna forget it even happened. It's gonna need a new head in a season or so anyway.

Thanks for the input guys, and thanks for not calling me stupid :headslap:

[OreoGaborio]

and thanks for not calling me stupid :headslap:

*waits for it*

Been lurking in this thread since it popped up... best of luck, Paul.

[KB]

JB weld run it hope it's ok if it is run it and forget about it. Lesson learned.

KB

[xsiliconkid]

Paul,
Picked up my rebuilt 560 motor this am from Cliff's cycles in Norfolk MA. (all they do is KTM).
Spoke to Frank about your problem, he would replace the bridge....
He can get one for you for $200. if you want to go that way call Cliff's 508 528-2936 ask for Frank and use my name.
graham

ps anyone want to buy a KTM560?
off set triple clamps, scotts damper, new rebuilt motor =0miles (new crank, rod, pistons rings, cylinder resurfaced etc.
(new crank welded with pistons and rods balanced by Falicon).

[KB]

Paul,
Picked up my rebuilt 560 motor this am from Cliff's cycles in Norfolk MA. (all they do is KTM).
Spoke to Frank about your problem, he would replace the bridge....
He can get one for you for $200. if you want to go that way call Cliff's 508 528-2936 ask for Frank and use my name.
graham

ps anyone want to buy a KTM560?
off set triple clamps, scotts damper, new rebuilt motor =0miles (new crank, rod, pistons rings, cylinder resurfaced etc.
(new crank welded with pistons and rods balanced by Falicon).

That is the best hadnling motard I have been on!

KB

[Kurlon]

Do I want to know the asking price?

No, it's better that I not ask...

[Danz19899]

my mistake wasn't quite as bad as that but I relocated my rectifier. I had to extend a few wires and did them up quick with some shitty connectors since I didn't have a soldering Iron at the time. Well 2 rides later connections got lose causing high resistance causing my rectifier to overheat and die.

So one break down and $130 later that lesson was learned. Got a sweet soldering iron now!!

alright to top that off I forgot that i was really low on gas when my bike broke down the first time. So last night i took it out to make sure shes running good and 3 miles later she died on me. after lots of cursing and calling people I just thought when was the last time i got gas . . . . i was bone dry 30 cold minutes later and 2 gallons of gas from my dad shes running good again. . . . . hes never gonna let me live that one down