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I have a pair of two stroke chambers that need a little tlc. They're dirty and have a bit of surface rust but no dents or anything like that. So, here's where NESR comes in.....
First, I need to clean them, inside and out. Nothing seems to work though - oven cleaner, elbow grease, etc. The internet tells me I should dip them into a hot tank (which is a caustic solution, I think). Are there any shops local to Boston who do this? A better method? Anything to watch out for?
Second, have to remove the rust (question - how the hell can something rust when there's so much oily residue all over it). Should I get them blasted - sand? glass? vapor? Or use one of those rust remover solutions?
Last, I'd like to get them ceramic coated. I know changing the heat transfer characteristics of the pipe will alter the performance, but will it be noticeable? I really don't care about gaining or losing a bit of power, I just don't want the rust to come back
Anyone have any info they'd like to share?
jim
Buddy in t RI is doing V-Blacting
http://hawkgtforum.com/forum/showthr...ighlight=vapor
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Last edited by nt650hawk; 01-07-13 at 10:47 AM.
Gino
HAWK GT Racer Expert #929
2012 CCS LRRS ULSB Champion
2012 CCS LRRS P89 Champion
2008 CCS ULSB National Champion
ECKRACING Bridgestone Street & Competition Woodcraft MOTUL On Track Media Pine Motorparts Vanson Leathers
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Is that expensive?Originally Posted by nt650hawk
Gino
HAWK GT Racer Expert #929
2012 CCS LRRS ULSB Champion
2012 CCS LRRS P89 Champion
2008 CCS ULSB National Champion
ECKRACING Bridgestone Street & Competition Woodcraft MOTUL On Track Media Pine Motorparts Vanson Leathers
price depends on the size of the job, this NSR head is a simple piece, no valves or bearings to remove, by itself about $40, but if you have a lot of items could be as little at $20.
set of small MC engine cases with side covers, clean with bearings removed is about $150, car engine like this 356 Porsche is about $300 but there are lots more parts to it, this is just the case
more pics HERE
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I have some work for you :-). Ill Be in touch
Dmitry.
Gino
HAWK GT Racer Expert #929
2012 CCS LRRS ULSB Champion
2012 CCS LRRS P89 Champion
2008 CCS ULSB National Champion
ECKRACING Bridgestone Street & Competition Woodcraft MOTUL On Track Media Pine Motorparts Vanson Leathers
ok, I think we all agree that vapor blasting will give some amazing results. But does anyone know how to clean expansion chambers?
short of soaking them in a giant vat of something, I don't know how you would clean the inside.
To clean the inside I have heard of cooking it in a grill to turn the oil to carbon deposits.
I tried muriatic acid to clean the outside of an expansion chamber and it actually caused more rust to form, but it did take away the rust. Maybe put some sort of a protective coating on it after using the muriatic acid?
-Christian LRRS/CCS HasBeen ECK Racing
2011 Pit Bike Race CHAMPION!
I've heard the same, but I don't have a grill that big and it supposedly smokes like crazy. If I tried it my neighbors would have the local fire department there in about 2 minutes
that's exactly want I'd like to do. There has to be some company who can soak parts in some sort of cleaner....Originally Posted by Sheppo
-Christian LRRS/CCS HasBeen ECK Racing
2011 Pit Bike Race CHAMPION!
Gino
HAWK GT Racer Expert #929
2012 CCS LRRS ULSB Champion
2012 CCS LRRS P89 Champion
2008 CCS ULSB National Champion
ECKRACING Bridgestone Street & Competition Woodcraft MOTUL On Track Media Pine Motorparts Vanson Leathers
Look around locally for a plating company that has a hot tank and see if they will do it for you.
dropped the chambers off at a radiator repair shop, they're going to dip them in the hot tank. We'll see how it turns out........
Not reading everything but
Go to like Home Cheapo and get deck and porch brighter
Containing Oxalic Acid
Oxalic acid is a poison but it eats rust but NOT the metal
It should also attack the oil residue
If its steel then the Alkali Tank won't hurt a thing
Walnut shell blasting would clean without real damage
The calculus of hate
It is not that I should win it is that you should lose
It is not that I succeed it is that you fail
It is not that I should live it is that you should die
I took the pipes to a local auto repair shop - Rogers Radiator in Medford. They submerged the pipes in their hot tank and did some very minor sand blasting. The results were really good as far as I can tell, clean metal surface inside and out. Will post some pictures when I can. I'll be putting on some flat black header paint asap.
Only downside is cost, 2 expansion chambers cost $150. Oh well, gotta pay to play.......
next time just find someone with a welding rig or even do it yourself with some map gas. Just burn the carbon on the inside for abit and itll catch fire then just feed it some oxygen and it will burn it all out. You can actually see a red ring move up the pipe from the heat.
For painting it id suggest using some Hi temp grill paint. The problem with ceramic coatings and other paints is they can discolor unevenly and especially with ceramic once they get scratched its harder to repair. Grill paint should last a few years before it needs to be recoated.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=R_J7sADPyMM
Mop & glo, I did mine last year and it lasted the season. Not bad considering I live about 300 feet from the ocean.
http://www.2strokeworld.com/forum/in...93339#msg93339
I spent days soaking them with Lye, IIRC got the powder from Ace, what a mess! Fill, wait, drain, flush, repeat.... glass beaded the outside then painted with BBQ paint from Home Despot, first minor gas leak and painted started melting. looking in to Jet Coating now. There is a place on 128 NW of Boston, not sure they will want to deal with used pipe. But they did a bang up job on my friends 1198 Termi
It will attack steel and is quite hazardous. From the Ebay listing "Please note that this is a POISON, and can be NASTY!!!. It can be more than a mild sting, an irritation, it is not like Boric Acid and you'd better know the reason why."
If the oil coating can be reliably removed, a chelant based rust remover will remove the rust easily and it is non hazardous. I have offered a free sample to anyone interested in an unbiased documentation. http://www.nestreetriders.com/forum/...-at-Home-Depot