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Will you be my friend?Originally posted by cruzan
Thanks you are a genius
How about you let the adults talk now![]()
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Yamaha
I have had similar things happen with my FZR1000. I have replaced the cap and the thermostat valve. If you have not recently replaced these parts, I would suggest doing so. Also, make sure that your overflow tank stays full. And, burp the system as suggested.
Good Luck!
LRRS#167
The cap and thermostat are 2 years old.Originally posted by lrrs167
I have had similar things happen with my FZR1000. I have replaced the cap and the thermostat valve. If you have not recently replaced these parts, I would suggest doing so. Also, make sure that your overflow tank stays full. And, burp the system as suggested.
Good Luck!
I am going to order them today and hope that is it.
Thermostat.
If it's supposed to kick in at say 180, but is faulty and dosen't activate until 220, then you will have such symptoms.
LRRS\CCS\WERA #486
Like others said, it could be the radiator cap. The cap may have the release pressure written on it and any shop can check it to see that it releases at the correct pressure. You can easily give the rubber gasket inside a visual check for kinks or tears.
If at any point the coolant got pretty low before you noticed it, you might have a large air bubble in the system causing a "hot" spot. This will cause the coolant to boil over at that particular spot which, in turn, expands the air bubble forcing the coolant out. While checking the coolant level, move the bike from side to side a bit and squeeze the hoses that you can reach to try to force air out.
Worse case, it might be a bad head gasket. If the head gasket has a leak between the combustion chamber and the cooling jacket, the high presure gasses from the combustion cycle might be leaking into the coolant. This will be fairly easy to spot if you have the bike running and the radiator cap off. Looking at the coolant you would see a steady stream of air bubbles. If it's a big leak, then the coolant will just be getting forced out very quickly.
OK if I run the bike with the cap off I see no bubbles but the coolant rises up the neck after about 2 or 3 minutes of running but that is normal, right?Originally posted by guru_lou
Like others said, it could be the radiator cap. The cap may have the release pressure written on it and any shop can check it to see that it releases at the correct pressure. You can easily give the rubber gasket inside a visual check for kinks or tears.
If at any point the coolant got pretty low before you noticed it, you might have a large air bubble in the system causing a "hot" spot. This will cause the coolant to boil over at that particular spot which, in turn, expands the air bubble forcing the coolant out. While checking the coolant level, move the bike from side to side a bit and squeeze the hoses that you can reach to try to force air out.
Worse case, it might be a bad head gasket. If the head gasket has a leak between the combustion chamber and the cooling jacket, the high presure gasses from the combustion cycle might be leaking into the coolant. This will be fairly easy to spot if you have the bike running and the radiator cap off. Looking at the coolant you would see a steady stream of air bubbles. If it's a big leak, then the coolant will just be getting forced out very quickly.
How in THEE hell do you get oil & coolant mixed up???Originally posted by Honclfibr
When I was changing the oil and coolant recently, I got a bit of both mixed up. The resulting mix was this brown, foamy sludge. Keep an eye for that in your oil sight glass maybe? If your oil's not black, probably something is amiss.
Did you grit your teeth and try to look like Clint Fuckin' Eastwood?
Or did you lisp it all hangfisted like a fuckin' flower?
Where do you live, cruzan (RUM!)? If you can get it up to our place, I'll be happy to give it a thourough look over...
Did you grit your teeth and try to look like Clint Fuckin' Eastwood?
Or did you lisp it all hangfisted like a fuckin' flower?
I live in Bellingham. What is your place?Originally posted by Stoneman
Where do you live, cruzan (RUM!)? If you can get it up to our place, I'll be happy to give it a thourough look over...
I am sure it will be fine. I ordered a new cap and thermostat and I will put them in when they show up next week.
I got some other stuff too. Front wheel bearings and a set of seals for the plunger part of the clutch. Those are like the only things I have not touched on the bike. :
If I think I am not solving the problem I would be happy if you looked at it. Thank You
I'm in Center Barnstead, NH. Not quite The Middleoffuckingnowhere, but close!
Sounds like you've got it covered though. Give a shout if you need any help with it. I'm sure you'll find it here...
Did you grit your teeth and try to look like Clint Fuckin' Eastwood?
Or did you lisp it all hangfisted like a fuckin' flower?
You're right, it's normal for the level to rise after a couple of minutes. That's the thermostat opening up and allowing the coolant to flow thru the whole system.
No bubbles is a good thing.
Does the output of the radiator go to a plastic coolant reservoir bottle or get dumped overboard? If a bottle, there should be a line from the bottle that goes overboard. Is this where the excess fluid coming out?
If it goes into the reservoir, use something like a basting syringe to take out most of the coolant, leaving about 1/2 inch on the bottom. Start the bike up and watch it as it warms up. How much time passes before you see the level rise.? Is it the same 2 to 3 min. you experienced when you took the radiator cap off? If so, it's probably the radiator cap. If it's substatially longer, then the pressure in the system is building up beyond the level of the cap release pressure, which means that the cap may be OK.
I get it! The old convection thing......
I'd just add that if it was a head gasket, and it was going the other way into the cylinder, you would have a nice show of white smoke out yer tailpipe.
If the cap vents the pressure, (can't hold at least 15lbs/sq in pressure), the coolant will "boil" at a lower temp, and puke it into the resevoir. So, if it isn't a head gasket, and not airbound, I'd also go with a bad cap thingy....
And now back to Lou!![]()
Heh, heh. You said she was smokin' out her tailpipe!
I'd just add that if it was a head gasket, and it was going the other way into the cylinder, you would have a nice show of white smoke out yer tailpipe.
Thus the term, 'puke tank'?...the coolant will "boil" at a lower temp, and puke it into the resevoir....
Did you grit your teeth and try to look like Clint Fuckin' Eastwood?
Or did you lisp it all hangfisted like a fuckin' flower?
Originally posted by Stoneman
Heh, heh. You said she was smokin' out her tailpipe!
Thus the term, 'puke tank'?
AHHHH...... WHY I OUGHTTA!![]()
in a drain container?Originally posted by Stoneman
How in THEE hell do you get oil & coolant mixed up???![]()
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Well I put the new radiator cap on before the ride yesterday and it is still leaking but I have the thermostat and the bleading thing to do before I get really upset.
Thanks for the help so far.
and LegalSpeed, thank you for asking about her at the track yesterday
I am going to put the thermostat in tomorrow, I am just going to watch TV today and chat![]()
She looks like a sweetie you don't get rid of!
Keep us posted and good luck.
LRRS\CCS\WERA #486
OK I put the new thermostat in and filled it with coolant but I do not think I am bleeding it correctly.
I did notice that when I ran it with the cap off I had a couple bubbles. Do you think it could just be air in the system coming out? They stopped after about 30 seconds.
Yip. You have to "Burp" the radiator. Some have bleed-off valves down by the h2o pump, I've found if you just run them to temp and burp, they're fine.
do burp the radiator before you try to ride her.
LRRS\CCS\WERA #486