CS sprocket??

[duganc1717]

I was removing my Counter shaft sprocket last night and I noticed the sprocket would move slightly on the spline before I loosened the retaining bolt.
Is this normal?

[Eric Baker]

No I don't believe so. Should be very snug.

[Jim]

either backwards or missing the washer that goes in front of the nut.

have you checked the service manual for the diagram ?

[TTD]

If you mean it can rotate a degree or two... parallel with the chain... that is normal.

If you mean you can rock it back and forth perpendicular to the shaft... that does not sound normal.

[duganc1717]

It was mounted correct, numbers facing out. And there is a washer. Gimme a minute I'm loading a video of it.

Sorry about the quality:

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=TrikFz_D5Os

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=yvyJPuRFgtI

[Jim]

washer facing out too?

[Jim]

ok i watched the video, and i've realized......

i way to fuckin druk to give a diagnosis of your sprockets.

[duganc1717]

The play in the second video does not change when I install the retaining bolt and washer.
And in both videos the bolt is on hand tight but, it had the same amount of play before I originally loosened the bolt.

[TTD]

My first thought is that it did not seem excessive... but it did sound like it was "clicking" when it hit the motor in the first vid. I can't say I ever recall that noise.

[stoinkythepig]

I'm guessing the sprocket bolt was inadequately torqued at some point in the past and allowed a little normal play to build into excessive play due to wear on the sprocket splines. The sprocket should be made of softer steel than the shaft so that if there ever is wear, it takes place only on the part that is easy to replace. I'd grease the splines with EP grease, re-assemble and ignore it for now. The grease will help arrest wear. When it's time for a new sprocket, be sure it cannot move when the bolt is tight.

[DuncanMoto]

Are you putting a new sprocket on it?
I think it is just normal wear.
Try a new one and see if it has the same slop.

[bluej511]

had the same problem with mine and its normal. I put the old one on and did the same thing. Once the chain is on that thing has absolutely no movement or slack.

[Trajiks9]

Have the same concern with my '01 cbr 929. I was doing chain maintanance last weekend and had the sprocket gaurd off and mine does the same exact thing. Showed a friend and he couldn't explain it either. The chain is on and it still has this back and forth motion like in the video. Almost seems like the washer should be cupped because soon as it bottoms out on the shaft it is not touching the sprocket.

[duganc1717]

Exactly, washer bottoms out on the shaft before the sprocket. Dunno why, put new sprocket on and it does the same thing.

[Jim]

have you tried calling a local honda dealer & asking if that's common?

[scubasteveRR]

I know Tricky Mike just changed Hondariders 600RR sprockets.. wonder if they have the same issue?

[Jim]

I know Tricky Mike just changes Hondariders 600RR sprockets.. wonder if they have the same issue?

degs and i changed one on a 600rr and no, it doesnt.

[scubasteveRR]

good stuff, thanks for the info Jim. I'm going to be doing mine over the winter.

[bluej511]

Like i said i just did mine and had the same problem. The new one and the factory one do the same thing so im guessing its normal.

[Mad Max]

I think it's designed that way. As a student of engineering, here is my description on why.

That bolt is not large enough to apply the type of clamping force that would be needed to transmit the rotational torque that setup sees. If the counter shaft was shorter (such that the washer was able to clamp onto the sprocket itself) the insufficient clamping force would let the sprocket clock back and forth a fraction of a degree on the shaft every time you had a large enough shock to the drivetrain. The rocking back and forth could eventually work the fastener loose.

In this set up the bolt and washer are simply there to keep the sprocket on the shaft, giving it a little wiggle room.

From person experience, I know SV's use a different setup with a large diameter fastener which DOES clamp the sprocket. There is a locking washer on the SV's that prevent the nut from backing off, but I think it's there more as a safety than a necessity.

There are multiple correct ways of attaching a sprocket to a shaft. These are just two of the ways you can do it.

As it was pointed out that sprocket is likely made of a softer metal than the shaft. When it was made, the shaft splines were probably cut and then the shaft was through-hardened or case hardened not only increasing strength but also wear resistance on all surfaces of the spline. When you replace the sprocket it probably won't have as much slop though I doubt it's even noticeable.

[SSearchVT]

The bolt and washer are basically there to make sure the sprocket stays on the shaft. Smaller bikes have a circlip in a groove for this. As it was mentioned before the sprocket is a softer material then the shaft - sprockets are cheaper and easier to replace then the shaft. The splines take all of the rotational load.

Take a look at the splines on the shaft - they should be nice and clean, good edges, no rolling, etc. I wouldn't lose sleep over this slop - but I would look at the chain and rear sprocket and see if maybe it's time to replace the whole setup.

[wiggeywackyo]

It must be a Honda thing then. I seem to remember that "slop" with the new and old sprocket also.

[Mad Max]

I've seen Yamaha use an identical setup with a driven CVT sheave on one of their sleds.