dielectric grease in ingnition coil?

[Billy]

When you guys change your spark plugs do any of you put a little dielectric grease up inside the ignition coil where the top of the spark plug goes?

[Ericthejet]

Always. Great stuff.

[Billy]

Ok cool. Heard a couple guys mention they do and thought it was a good idea.

[Ericthejet]

I do most of the critical electrical connections on my old bike.
(bulbs etc.)

[seth399]

yes, it is good!

[schleppy]

Yes.

[DesmoTull]

That and anti-seize are your best friends!

[Stoneman]

Just like the others...yip!

[Doc]

I really gotta start doing both of those!

[obsolete]

Anti seize and dielectric grease every time. It makes life so much easier when you do it the next time. Wires will pop right off and the plugs will come right out.

Don't get to happy with the grease though. I had some run out of the boot and make a ground so my spark was hitting the block and not the plug. Gave me a miss and a loud tick. I thought I had a dead hole.

[DesmoTull]

After dealing with more then one stubborn bolt on my SS, I learned to buy stock in it. I never thought about the Di-Elec grease on the plugs though!

[seth399]

I skip the anti sieze on plugs...not really necessary especially if you torque the plug close to specs.

[butcher bergs]

I skip the anti sieze on plugs...not really necessary especially if you torque the plug close to specs.

+1
Never once have I had an issue with a plug seizing in its threads....just don't leave them in there for 20 years and you'll be fine.

In addition to the fact that 95% of the people who do the anti-seize on the plug threads are using the wrong product. You want the copper-based and NOT the graphite-based. Regardless, it's totally unneccessary.

[Billy]

Wow 13 posts and not a single sarcastic/ball busting response! Wow NESR is cleaning up!!!

[obsolete]

+1
Never once have I had an issue with a plug seizing in its threads....just don't leave them in there for 20 years and you'll be fine.

In addition to the fact that 95% of the people who do the anti-seize on the plug threads are using the wrong product. You want the copper-based and NOT the graphite-based. Regardless, it's totally unneccessary.

I use the copper on suspension and things exposed to salt due to the reaction the graphite can have with it. But I've done hundreds of plugs and all with graphite and never once had a problem. Where did you hear that you're not supposed to use it?

Do people actually use a torque wrench on plugs?

[Billy]

Do people actually use a torque wrench on plugs?

I actually ran into an interesting situation when replacing the plugs. The manual that actually came with the bike said to tighten a half turn from the point of where it's finger tightv(which is what I did).

Now I bought a repair manual for the bike (to suppliment the bike manual) and that manual said to torque to 8FT LB. I knew right off the bat that's waaay too much torque for a spark plug. I wonder if the publisher of the manual meant 8in LB?

[obsolete]

8 lb-ft is for small plugs, you can go up to like 25 lb-ft for big gasket plugs. Most plug companies have tables on their websites that get into the torque specs. It's pretty high from what I've seen.

[Billy]

Really? My buddy stripped the threading on his 2000 CBR 600 when he torqued the plugs to 8FL lb. The torque spec was 8IN LB, and by accident he used a FT LB torque wrench.

[obsolete]

http://www.ngksparkplugs.com/tech_su...tion/index.asp

That's from NGK's website. I dunno what happened with your buddies bike but 8 inch pounds is nothing. Most torque wrenches won't got that low.

[Kurlon]

I've always used the half turn past seated on a plug's first install, quarter turn past seated on subsequent installs rule. Haven't had a problem yet.