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I am in need of someone to fix my brake problem. I will pay for services plus beer or whatever floats your boat.
I have brake rub on my front wheel and I cannot even get a full rotation out of the rim. When I took out my calipers I noticed that my pads were uneven which I know could mean seals and or warped rotors. I will have to check whether or not my rotors are warped when I get home and will update on that.
Here is the list of parts that I know that I need so far and they will be ordered as soon as I know I need them. Opinions on them are welcome.
1) Caliper rebuild kit for both sides (guy from motorsport international asked about my pistons too which I am not sure of)
2) EBC double H sinistered pads
3) Galfer brake lines
4) Dot 4 fluid
I only plan on doing the front as of now and will do the back next pay period.
If there is anyone competent enough in the Metrowest area to help me out again I will pay for services plus the brew. Hook a brotha up please.
you need a caliper rebuild. you shouldn't be using the rear brake in most situations, so i wouldnt bother checking it.
if the rotors are warped, you can get them straightened for about $10/rotor plus shipping from Wills Rim Repair in South Carolina.
if you've never rebuilt your calipers before, plan for doing a lot of brake bleeding
When it comes to brakes I don't trust myself to do it. It's my life in my hands literally. I feel alot more comfortable having a guy who knows what the hell he is doing then me. I just ordered new seals now I wondering which pads to get.
I will be checking whether they are warped tonight and most likely be in contact with Will's shop.
Oh ya. 06 cbr 600rr.
stick with stock pads. honda/suzuki pads are better than you'd think.
if the rotors are straight, it wouldnt hurt to clean the rotors.
- 60 grit sandpaper
- crisscross directions
- brake cleaner
- air around the buttons to get any sand out
then brake in the pads with recommended procedure
- 30 MPH, slow down, but dont stop
- repeat 5 times
- wait 10 minutes for the rotors to cool down
- repeat 5 times
Reason as to why I should stick with stock pads other then there better then I think? Only reason I ask is because free shipping and $5 coupon with motorcycle superstore.com plus all of the reviews about the double h's.
- unless you're doing track days, stock pads are more than good enough.
- OEM honda/suzuki pads are just as good (if not better) than many of the aftermarket pads
- your rotors most likely have OEM pad residue, and now your putting a completely different compound on them. this "may" cause your rotors to glaze up, which will require a resurfacing (using 60 grit sandpaper or bead blasting).
- i'm sure all the reviews say that they "needed" the 520 kit for additional power as well.
- i think OEM pads are around $50/caliper. is the $5 coupon & free shipping worth more than driving to the dealer to pick up a set locally?
i'm all for finding good deals but for $5 off and free shipping, i'd rather support the local businesses. i wouldn't go crazy with brands of DOT4 either. sounds like a typical caliper rebuild, and nothing fancy. i struggled with braking issues before myself.
you're looking at like $125 after pads, caliper seals, and brake fluid. maybe another $30 if you need to get your rotors straightened, but unlikely.
When I purchased this bike I thought all was good in the hood, but hearing that constant rubbing plus putting it on a stand with 1/4 rotation told me other wise. I will be tackling this after this weekend. Should be fun. Thanks for the help Jimmy.![]()
I went to Ray Ray for brake service. He rebuilt my calipers and good thing to because 5 of the 8 pistons were seized. I ordered factory pads thru Motosport International, but didn't know that EBC was Honda's supplier. Learn something new every day. He also swapped out my lines for Galfer ss ones and you were right Jimmy there was alot of the bleeding. The rotors do seem to be alittle warped so I am not going to ride till I get my rotors sent out to Will's to be straightened. Once they get back and are mounted I should be good to go.
Jimmy, does Will clean off the rotors with the 60 grit or am I going to have to do that when they come back?
So I will not have to remove the rotors from the carriers? If thats the case then hell ya.
About the compound. I asked for the factory pads and they got me double H's. He tried telling me that he has never had a problem with changing out compounds or glazing issues. I had no choice but to get those do to time and schedule restraits. So in short I will be buying some 60 grit and taking care of that too after they get back.
then dont bother scrubbing the rotors. if they get glazed, then take the rotors off and scrub them. it's just more of a situation were you might as well do them while they're off the bike.
glad everything worked out for you. sounds like the posts were dead-on with your braking issue.
LRRS Am #331
Graphic Tailor / Woodcraft / Armour Bodies / Suomy / Cycle Performance Autobody / Shorai / ChickenHawk Racing
Tossed out the packaging unfortunately, but did have EBC all over them. The fronts came from MI in Auburn and rear came from MTR in Woonsocket. Whats weird is that both parts guys said Honda uses EBC for their factory pads. Seemed fishy to me so I called out the kid at MTR and he got all pissy with me telling me he knows his shit.He did end up going to the parts bible and sure enough the part numbers matched up.
Last edited by Dip Dungles; 07-08-11 at 12:39 PM.
LRRS Am #331
Graphic Tailor / Woodcraft / Armour Bodies / Suomy / Cycle Performance Autobody / Shorai / ChickenHawk Racing
Neither have I. Honda puts their logo on anything they can.
i had this same issue with my 05 cbr after the brakes were not touched for about 20k miles though the rubbing of the rotors wern't that bad. The caliper rebuild, new lines and pads works fantastic for me as well. mad a huge difference in the break feel as well
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Shannon, trust me, those rotor buttons need cleaning, that's all. No need to send them for straightening. Waste of time and money.
Ok Derek. I will start on that tomorrow. Do I have to remove the rotors from the carriers to do this?
Shannon
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Not necessarily but it is easier if you do.Originally Posted by Dip Dungles