Can someone help me with a chain & sprocket install?

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Originally Posted by Wishbone

Why do you think it's a waste? I personally appreciate the acceleration increase. Plus I have no need to do the 175 the stock gearing allows. I went -1 and +4 dropping me to 150 and only turns about an extra 1000 rpm at 80 Not a big deal unless you do a ton of highway miles.

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Well I guess it's personal preference.... a gearing change of -1 +4 has changed your gear ratio by over 15%... that means you'll be shifting a lot more often, wasting more gas, etc... if you normally cruise at 8krpm on the highway, instead youll be cruising at say 9500. that extra buzziness gets annoying after a while.

It's not about not needing the top speed for me, it's about comfort and drivability :dunno: Then again, I don't have a street bike anymore :lol:

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Originally Posted by ceo and a bunch of numbers

Well I guess it's personal preference.... a gearing change of -1 +4 has changed your gear ratio by over 15%... that means you'll be shifting a lot more often, wasting more gas, etc... if you normally cruise at 8krpm on the highway, instead youll be cruising at say 9500. that extra buzziness gets annoying after a while.

It's not about not needing the top speed for me, it's about comfort and drivability :dunno: Then again, I don't have a street bike anymore :lol:

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:owned:

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Originally Posted by ceo and a bunch of numbers

Well I guess it's personal preference.... a gearing change of -1 +4 has changed your gear ratio by over 15%... that means you'll be shifting a lot more often, wasting more gas, etc... if you normally cruise at 8krpm on the highway, instead youll be cruising at say 9500. that extra buzziness gets annoying after a while.

It's not about not needing the top speed for me, it's about comfort and drivability :dunno: Then again, I don't have a street bike anymore :lol:

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Yeah it does make me shift more. But an inline 4 1k is a bike that don't need to be shifted much in stock trim. And even with the change I shift less on the FZ than I do on the 650 twin. It only went from about 5200 to 6100 at 80 MPH

Also my millage hasn't really changed. But I then again I look at smiles per gallon more :)

i was saying in regards to him not having a streetbike anymore, not your discussion on chain and sprockets

how bout you go be a :fairy: somewhere else when it comes to that stuff and not take everything as a personal attack on this thread or on you

:jerkoff:

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Originally Posted by mondos06cbr1000

i was saying owned to him not having a streetbike anymore

how bout you go be a :fairy: somewhere else when it comes to that stuff and not take everything as a personal attack on this thread or on you

:jerkoff:

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My bad :shitfan:

The way you posted I though you were saying he owned me. That's why I was like WTF????

I owe you a beer :hug3:

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Originally Posted by Wishbone

My bad :shitfan:

The way you posted I though you were saying he owned me. That's why I was like WTF????

I owe you a beer :hug3:

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hahah I can see how you would think that, I should have been clear on what I was referring too, its no big deal man

ill still take a free beer tho:yumyum

http://www.bostonmoto.com/shop/index...duct_list&c=51

we sell drivetrain items

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Originally Posted by Crash Dummy Denno

http://www.bostonmoto.com/shop/index...duct_list&c=51

we sell drivetrain items

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Denno, you do work as well? Foxboro isn't too far from me... and it could be one stop shopping.

HP

Well, I went and changed the tension on the chain over the weekend. :)

Changing the chain tension on a SSSA is actually pretty easy.

1. Put VFR on center stand (this was actually the most difficult part, but I got the technique down now -- My first bike, 93 Ninja ZX6 had one, and my g/f's Ninja 250 has one... but the VFR is the heaviest bike, so far, I have tried to put on a center stand. It is all about the technique!)

2. Loosen the pinch bolt.

3. Use supplied tool to adjust tension (checking for chain slack @ various spots)

4. Tighten pinch bolt.


Now I'm okay... for now. I'm going to need a new chain and sprocket set - tightening the chain doesn't change the fact it's got rust on it, and I'm also at the point where the little dummy indicator on my chain guard says "time for a new chain."

Should I do it now, or wait till the new season...?

- HP

If you don't already have one, get yourself a Grunge Brush and a good cleaner (I use Motul Chain Clean) and scrub some of that rust off. As long as the chain isn't binding you should be fine until you get a replacement.

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Originally Posted by 07BladeRider

If you don't already have one, get yourself a Grunge Brush and a good cleaner (I use Motul Chain Clean) and scrub some of that rust off. As long as the chain isn't binding you should be fine until you get a replacement.

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Any local dealers have 'em? I tried to clean the chain a bit, but the Grunge Brush would make it easier.

I feel like if I can get a fresh set of sprockets and chain on there, I can at least start from a good point.

I had to scrape gunk off the center stand that had been flung on there... probably from years of riding and not good cleaning.

I don't need it to be spotless, but it was kinda gross.

- HP

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Originally Posted by hqp921

Any local dealers have 'em? I tried to clean the chain a bit, but the Grunge Brush would make it easier.

I feel like if I can get a fresh set of sprockets and chain on there, I can at least start from a good point.

I had to scrape gunk off the center stand that had been flung on there... probably from years of riding and not good cleaning.

I don't need it to be spotless, but it was kinda gross.

- HP

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Not sure. For small stuff (oil, filters, etc...), I usually hit up MTR in Woonsocket on Social St. Not sure if they stock the brushes. Give them a ring.

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Originally Posted by hqp921

Denno, you do work as well? Foxboro isn't too far from me... and it could be one stop shopping.

HP

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PM sent

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Originally Posted by 07BladeRider

Not sure. For small stuff (oil, filters, etc...), I usually hit up MTR in Woonsocket on Social St. Not sure if they stock the brushes. Give them a ring.

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Right down the street from me. Literally. I rode my buggered SV to them to fix.

True to Woonsocket fashion, some kids on the side of the road were making the wheelie motion (while I'm right behind a box truck, no less). Guess they didn't notice the front of my bike was smashed up...

- HP

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Originally Posted by Crash Dummy Denno

PM sent

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PM replied.

We could always get a few guys and lift it? :dunno:

- HP

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Originally Posted by hqp921

Denno, you do work as well?

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Yeah, denno's mechanical skills are unmatched.... :coward:

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Originally Posted by ceo and a bunch of numbers

Yeah, denno's mechanical skills are unmatched.... :coward:

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:lolup:

What's going on hurr?

Should I not go to Denno? :dunno:

he's good with a tool in his hand

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Originally Posted by FirstDuc-1098

he's good with a tool in his hand

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Hmm...

Maybe I should get a shaft-driven bike... can someone lube my shaft? :jonnyload:

- HP

Wow, this thread went south . . . FAST. :outtie:

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Originally Posted by 07BladeRider

Wow, this thread went south . . . FAST. :outtie:

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Don't leave, Chuck.

Tryin' to get back to some sort of track: Can someone tell me what are the significant differences between a 520, 525, and 530 chain are? :dunno:

From what I gather, 530 should "last the longest"... 525 seems to be "OEM" size... and 520... is...?

- HP

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Originally Posted by hqp921

Don't leave, Chuck.

Tryin' to get back to some sort of track: Can someone tell me what are the significant differences between a 520, 525, and 530 chain are? :dunno:

From what I gather, 530 should "last the longest"... 525 seems to be "OEM" size... and 520... is...?

- HP

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530 can be OEM on bigger bikes. 525 is OEM for 750-600cc bikes. 520 is more for race bikes under 750cc, and often used on motards. but there will be people that used 520 chains on their 1000cc bikes on the street.

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Originally Posted by hqp921

Don't leave, Chuck.

Tryin' to get back to some sort of track: Can someone tell me what are the significant differences between a 520, 525, and 530 chain are? :dunno:

From what I gather, 530 should "last the longest"... 525 seems to be "OEM" size... and 520... is...?

- HP

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Like John & I explained earlier in this thread, it's the size of the chain and the strength it has.

A 530 is the heaviest chain and can supposedly handle more stress put on it. It is the normal stock size for a liter bike.

People do the 520 conversion for weight savings, but supposedly, they do not last as long on a larger CC bike due to the stress the higher torque motors put on the chain.

I use 525 on the 900 and the current chain has 16K miles on it and is still in the mid-green area of the chain guide on the bike.

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Originally Posted by DBKromz

530 can be OEM on bigger bikes. 525 is OEM for 750-600cc bikes. 520 is more for race bikes under 750cc, and often used on motards. but there will be people that used 520 chains on their 1000cc bikes on the street.

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I guess I'm confused because I can get either a 525 or a 530 for the VFR. Is a matter of strength? And why is a 530 so much more expensive?

I wish there was a place, other than various forums, that states benefits, pros/cons. :dunno:

- HP