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I had ordered a jug of this stuff online to de-rust the inside of the tank on an '81 CM400. It's supposed to be safe for skin and for the environment, and I can vouch for the fact that it didn't damage paint or irritate my hands. I had it in for ~8 hours and it seemed to work pretty well. That's the only time I've used it, though, so I won't get too enthusiastic about its effectiveness until I've tried it on some other stuff. Anyone know any similar products? Anyway you can buy it in certain Home Depots now instead of shipping it.
I have been killing myself over how to clean my tank, looking at all the options. I got my bike from a friend who let it sit during the winter inside.
There is only a layer of rust on the bottom and the tank still has old gas in it so its not dry. I'm looking for a way to get the rust off the bottom but not have to do a full clean/seal on the tank because its in pretty good condition.
Any thoughts?
Also, StrayNut did you put any sort of sealer coat after using Metal Rescue?
Anyone else use it before?
I've used this stuff before with good results.
http://www.harborfreight.com/1-gallo...ver-96431.html
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I think Metal Rescue is pretty similar to EvapoRust. I didn't try to use the electrolysis method because of laziness and a slight suspicion I might electrocute myself, but it seems like a cheap and effective option... looshin, I did not use a sealer coat. I'm not sure how it's held up since then because I sold it.
I use Duro Extend Rust Converter, available in big box paint departments. I't's Formic Acid. Naval Jelly is similar.
The old school solution was Coca Cola. It's pretty acidic.
Last edited by Garandman; 06-16-12 at 01:30 AM.
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The electrolisis is the safest way for the tank. It only removes rust.
The washing soda makes the water a better conducter.
I just saw a guys setup the other day, he hd found an old road sign, a rubbermaid garbage can, 6 pieces of #2 rebar wired together with copper wire for the pos elctrodes.
Sign was the neg, an old battery and a battery charger. If you have an older charger or manual charger you don't need a battery in line. He had a smart charger and needed a dead battery to keep charger in charge mode.
The rust basicaly jumps off the sign or gas tank and collects on the rebar.
They are useing this same methode to save the monitor ( first type of submarine boat, used in cival war ) in a museum down south , I think S. Carolina ,( not positive)
Anyway don't do this in an inclosed area like a garage. It does make dangerous fumes of some sort. I found an old c-clamp while rototilling my garden , I'm gonna try this to get it back to life. Its a ball of rust.
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I found this thread while checking my websites. I do carry a chelant type rust remover concentrate so I wanted to add a few facts about similar chelant rust removers such as metal rescue, evapo-rust, safest rust remover and many others. They are all essentially the same and will preform similarly. chelant chemistry is used in medicine for removal of heavy metals from the bloodstream and work very well for rust removal. There are concentrated chelant type rust removers that you mix with water and are very cost effective. Someone posted a link for harbor freight evapo-rust that costs $29.99 plus shipping, but all you get is one gallon. Concentrated chelant type rust removers are available in 1 gallon size that makes 10 gallons of ready-to-use rust remover when mixed with water; all 10 gallons the same strength as the pre-mixed types. So do your homework and look beyond the 'over the counter' rust removers.
Electrolysis certainly has its place in rust removal, but set-up likely takes more time and babysitting. Also consider if you have a tank or fender you want to take a bit of rust off, but is has a chrome part on it. If you stick the chrome in there guess what happens? Chelant based removers will not affect chrome. They will only attack lead, and zinc galvanization. So don't use a galvanized washtub to soak parts. Then again zinc is a sacrificial metal and also no good for electrolysis.....
After whatever removal process you use, I would use MM oil to coat the inside for storage before use then use the recommended amount per tankful to prevent rust.
The hardest part seems to be removal of the varnish prior to rust removal. If there are any ideas on how to proceed, please share them. I would like to find an effective non hazardous chemical to use in my Triumph (car) gas tank and Triumph Bonneville my brother is restoring to remove varnish.
For the varnish REAL Gumout in the gal can at most automotive stores
Oxalic acid dissolves rust but not metal, can be found in wood deck brightners
I would hate to be the 1st but Urethane based paint should be immune to Gas and ethanol
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ive used lemon juice to clean my carbs. it does a good job on the varnish and I'm sure that it attacks rust too.