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My front brake system is stock except for braided lines. I feel like it requires excessive force (3 fingers) to stop the thing quickly from speed. So here are some silly questions:
How would upgraded pads (of the racey variety) affect the feel?
How would fancy rotors affect the feel?
How would a radial MC affect the feel?
My bike already had fancy pads and rotors when I bought it, so I don't know how the upgrade feels. I did upgrade to a Brembo RCS this season though and it is phenomenal. While clamping force is only marginally better it is a huge improvement in progressive braking. Much better feel throughout the range, it completely changed my trail braking game. Highly recommend.
I went to MMI I know what Im doing here chief
Start from first principles. When did you last change your brake fluid? Is there any air in it?
3 fingers sounds like too much, even on a stock system. Get your stock system 100%, and once it's there, see if you need to upgrade it.
I'm guessing these are the stock brakes on a 2nd gen SV?
99 + 02 SV650 ex-race - 91 FJ1200 street - 03 KDX220R woods - 12 WR450F motard/ice
Wow I actually agree with Jim on something. The master cylinder will affect the feel the most and over the entire range. Pads affect feel a bit but it depends on their operating temp range and how hard you use the brakes. Once you get good with braking you'll find that pads designed for street use will start to lose feel as they get hotter whereas pads for racing will feel better. I don't mess with the fancy fluids and have only run on stock rotors.
1. Fluid
2. Pads
3. Anything else
From an actual 2nd gen SV owner.
2021 KTM Duke 890 R
2020 BMW R1250GS Adventure Exclusive
1982 Honda CB750F Super Sport
If your pads are original to you, or getting old, I'd replace those first since it's low cost, easy, and won't be a completely sunk cost. I had a similar problem and was looking at replacing my master. I recently replaced the pads instead and it fixed the problems I was having with a long dead-zone on the initial lever pull, as well as a lack of bite when the pads were cold. I remember nhbubba having a thread describing similar issue and I think pads ended up being his fix too.
nedirtriders.com
Save the some time and just buy a 19RCS from RidersDiscount and one finger it around the track...or i would look for a 06 and up GSXR/R6 master if you want to save a few bucks but thats a crap shoot..
also, there was a good read on the WERA board for Pads and how they feel or bite break down...
I like the Vesrahs better than the EBC HH, less enitial bite but more after you get into them hard... but all pads are slightly Diff
LRRS EX 66
BostonMoto | Yoshimura | GoPro | K/N | Amsoil | Computrack | Vortex Sprockets |
EBC | Dunlop | Woodcraft | ArmourBodies | Fuel Clothing | Progrip | FmF Racing|
factoryeffex
Last edited by Pigman; 09-30-14 at 06:09 AM.
LRRS EX 66
BostonMoto | Yoshimura | GoPro | K/N | Amsoil | Computrack | Vortex Sprockets |
EBC | Dunlop | Woodcraft | ArmourBodies | Fuel Clothing | Progrip | FmF Racing|
factoryeffex
What Jim said.
Buy a 19x18 brembo or accosato and throw whatever pads you want on there and be done with it.
From an actual former 2nd gen SV owner.
Cliff's Cycles KTM
NETRA enduro B-vet
Close your eyes, look deep in your soul, step outside yourself and let your mind go.
I don't I run a MW bike....
So what you are saying is i can go buy
1. 3000 Brembo Monoblock calipers
2. Moto GP pads
3. Carbon rotors
4. MOON fluid from Italy
and a blown junk MC and my breaks will be awesome Right????
Just as most or all Suzuki MC they were very hit or miss...Fact
and whats the driving force behind a breaking system.......?????
LRRS EX 66
BostonMoto | Yoshimura | GoPro | K/N | Amsoil | Computrack | Vortex Sprockets |
EBC | Dunlop | Woodcraft | ArmourBodies | Fuel Clothing | Progrip | FmF Racing|
factoryeffex
You are assuming his MC is junk.
It very well could be.
He stated he is on STOCK pads. Those ARE junk. No "maybe they are decent race pads".
If his master is in proper operating condition, a decent set of pads and making sure his calipers are clean with well lubed sliding pins should remedy his situation.
A decent master on junk pads will not help.
Your logic fails. It's like saying that a car with a clogged air filter would get fixed by replacing the engine. Start with the known bad parts first, then work back from there.
Last edited by TheIglu; 09-30-14 at 09:27 AM.
2021 KTM Duke 890 R
2020 BMW R1250GS Adventure Exclusive
1982 Honda CB750F Super Sport
Yes...three fingers is a give away its a hunk of dung. He will need to service the calipers, new pads and a MC and I bet I could flip that bike with 1 finger.. I have gone through many many MC and as soon as the Brembo goes on its night and day...
LRRS EX 66
BostonMoto | Yoshimura | GoPro | K/N | Amsoil | Computrack | Vortex Sprockets |
EBC | Dunlop | Woodcraft | ArmourBodies | Fuel Clothing | Progrip | FmF Racing|
factoryeffex
Don't assume because Suzuki sourced shite masters for the Gixahs that the masters they opted for on the SVs are just as suspect...
3 fingers is a giveaway that something (or more than 1 thing) in his braking system isn't doing it's part. That's all.
Pads/pins first. A great master won't do shit for junk stock SV pads.
If you replace the pads and the thing still sucks, master is called for but at least you got decent pads which were needed anyways. If you replace the master and it still sucks, you replaced a working part for nothing.
Last edited by TheIglu; 09-30-14 at 09:55 AM.
2021 KTM Duke 890 R
2020 BMW R1250GS Adventure Exclusive
1982 Honda CB750F Super Sport
For a GSXR or an SV?
2021 KTM Duke 890 R
2020 BMW R1250GS Adventure Exclusive
1982 Honda CB750F Super Sport
Stating an axial master is fine, or up to the task is subjective and really boils down to the rider's ability to receive feedback from bike. I don't intend that to be a pejorative remark, however the fact remains a radial master provides much better feedback when modulating braking vs an axial, this effect is compounded in dual rotor setups which require moving a lot more fluid. Absolute clamping force is fairly close to the same, although a bit better on a top grade billet machined master vs factory one.
All else holds true, if your pads, lines, rotors, and calipers are crap there's little to gain by just installing a radial master. All depends on what you want; good, or great. Cheap, or expensive.
I went to MMI I know what Im doing here chief