0


A couple of months ago I low sided my bike at the track and it ground a hole in the right side engine cover. I finally got around to removing it and realized a few pieces of the cover had fallen into the inside. I "think" I got them all but can't be sure. So what would be the suggestion for flushing out the bottom end of the engine to make sure I get all the pieces out? Thanks in advance!
hopefully you haven't started the engine since. pull the oil pan off and the clutch cover off and clean it out. if you have started it since then do all that and change the oil filter and hope nothing got in the bearings or clogged an oil passage.
LRRS Am #331
Graphic Tailor / Woodcraft / Armour Bodies / Suomy / Cycle Performance Autobody / Shorai / ChickenHawk Racing
Run a few quarts threw it with the drain plug out. Then fill up and dump it again after the first 100mi of riding?
If it's in the bottom of the case it should get stopped by the oil pick up's screen. If not, then the filter will stop it. But "should" is a dangerous word.
Edit: After reading CBR's reply, that sounds like a better plan. I might run a few quarts threw in the hopes of washing everything down in to the pan, then drop the pan to clean it. And for good measure, change the oil after the first ~100mi.
Last edited by aldend123; 08-21-13 at 11:40 AM.
nedirtriders.com
Drain oil and coolant. Rev at redline for 45 minutes. No more worries about metal bits.
Go fast. Have fun. Repeat.
LRRS EX 66
BostonMoto | Yoshimura | GoPro | K/N | Amsoil | Computrack | Vortex Sprockets |
EBC | Dunlop | Woodcraft | ArmourBodies | Fuel Clothing | Progrip | FmF Racing|
factoryeffex
I've seen it. It went a RIDICULOUS amount of time. Smoking and spitting and boiling and burning and it just sat there banging on the rev limiter.
I was talking about with the oil drained ... said he could keep his coolant. Figured the motor would be done before the thermostat opened.
Thanks for the suggestions guys!! Or at least most of the suggestions!!But you do realize there are some people out there that would actual try what dontpanic suggested!!
I havent started it because every drop of oil drained out of the hole when it was on its side......... and onto the track............ (yeah, I was popular that day) plus I needed to replace the oil pressure sensor......
we had a small block ford go over 3 hours with no oil or water....never blew we shut it off and it seized up tighter than you could imagine
I remember that vid, been looking for it but can't find it
fwiw, many years ago a friend of mine tried blowing a Mopar 225 ci slant 6, first we ran it without coolant for close to 2 hours before it seized , after it cooled the next day we ran it without coolant or oil, it ran for easily 45 minutes or more before it seized
a few days later someone came looking for a slant 6 to replace his blown motor, we put oil & coolant into it started it up, didn't hear any knocks so we sold it to him for $50, the guy used that engine for another 50,000 miles
RandyO
IBA#9560
A man with a gun is a citizen
A man without a gun is a subject LETS GO BRANDON
Thats nuts. When I raced karts I blew a 4 stroke motor in 2 laps because we forgot to put new oil in after draining it. Stuck a couple of 2 strokes later in life just running them a bit lean ... one was a direct drive kart and it took me for quite a ride when it seized at the end of a straight.
I just can't imagine a motor with no oil sitting on the rev limiter. Kind of makes me sick thinking about it.
Load vs. No load makes an incredible difference.
In a previous life I might have spent some time on reasonably big diesel engines. Testing in the shop, running them up to (and beyond) rev limits was one thing. Hooking them to 55k lbs and asking them to accelerate was another.
If it won't sustain redline under no load (at least for 30 seconds), don't bother sending it out... if you aren't comfortable taking it to redline, you shouldn't be comfortable sending it out.
do you have a magnetic drain plug?