Oil and oil filter questions (please help)

[jesse_k]

I have a 97 zx7r and I have been told everything under the sun about getting oil for this. First off, my car mechanic says I can put regular mobile one in the bike and it will be fine, but everyone I know says not to. What oil would you recommend? Also how often should I change the oil? And lastly, where is a good place to buy it, I would buy a bunch of it because I know how much the dealer around here charges and there is no reason that it should be so much. Any help is really appreciated.

[benVFR]

Autozone, Costco, whatever...

Look around, you will probably find oil cheaper than at the dealer.

Using car oil is not recommended most of the time. Car oil has lower friction than bike oil, which can mess up your shifting. (Bike uses the same oil for engine & transmission, car doesn't)

Maybe that is why he is a car mechanic? Does he have a bike too?

At a minimum change it as often as Kawasaki says. Most people change more often.

Ben

[legalspeed]

There are a few differences in the recipe from car to bike oil. One, as you have mentioned, are the friction reducers, there are anti-foaming agents and anti-corrosive agents that differ from car oil as well.

I like Castrol oil and Emgo filters. Buy online.

Change the oil when it needs it, you can feel the extra vibration. Or by manuf. specs, which ever comes first.

Also if it's going to sit for a while (3 months).

[stoinkythepig]

Many car oils are bad news for bike clutches if you believe the rumors. Mobil 1 15W50 works great in bikes and does not contain the supposedly bad "friction modifiers" that lower viscosity or "Energy Conserving" labeled oils contain. It is the only mobile 1 oil with a red cap so it's easy to spot on the shelves at any Autozone, Pep Boys or Wal Mart. I use it in my three bikes with a total of 130,000 + miles and no clutch problems or lubrication failures. I change it every 6000 miles.

OEM filters are good. I would not use a Fram spin on filter but their "open element" (for lack of a better description) filters are fine. Not sure what a 7R uses...

[jesse_k]

So how often do I change it if I had my first oil change done with the dealer oil and filter? I have put about 1500 miles on the bike since that oild change? I really want to thank you guys for all the help, I used to go on the BMW site for my car and I thought they were helpful but you guys are quick and explain everything, thank you very very much!

[stoinkythepig]

I would not change it until the shifting starts to feel "notchy".

[Stoneman]

On that year bike, I'd change the oil & filter every 3,000 - 5,000 miles. I'd probably switch it over to some semi-synth (I like Golden Sectro 10-40), and see how it likes it. You may notice smoother shifting and easier starting and easier neutrals...

I've been running good ol' Fram oil filters for over 100,000 street bike miles now, and have NEVER had a problem remotely related to them...

On my TL-R, I run dino oil due to the slipper clutch. On just about any other bike I've owned, I've ran the 10-40 Golden Spectro semi-synth. I change the oil & filter together every 5,000 miles or so, or if it's gonna sit for more than a few months...

[stoinkythepig]

Originally posted by Stoneman
On that year bike, I'd change the oil & filter every 3,000 - 5,000 miles. I'd probably switch it over to some semi-synth (I like Golden Sectro 10-40), and see how it likes it. You may notice smoother shifting and easier starting and easier neutrals...

I've been running good ol' Fram oil filters for over 100,000 street bike miles now, and have NEVER had a problem remotely related to them...

On my TL-R, I run dino oil due to the slipper clutch. On just about any other bike I've owned, I've ran the 10-40 Golden Spectro semi-synth. I change the oil & filter together every 5,000 miles or so, or if it's gonna sit for more than a few months...

I'll lend you my big tubing cutter sometime so you can open a spin on Fram filter up. They are not well made. My Durango engine will rattle upon startup due to oil startvation in the lifters with a Fram installed. Wix filters have never done that. That said, Maybe Fram spin on filters for motorcycles are OK, never opened one up. I use OEM filters from Ron Ayers on my bikes.

[Stoneman]

Originally posted by stoinkythepig
I'll lend you my big tubing cutter sometime so you can open a spin on Fram filter up. They are not well made. My Durango engine will rattle upon startup due to oil startvation in the lifters with a Fram installed. Wix filters have never done that. That said, Maybe Fram spin on filters for motorcycles are OK, never opened one up. I use OEM filters from Ron Ayers on my bikes.

Yeah, I've heard it before. But as I've said, I've got over 100,000 miles on streetbikes and I've used Fram for just about every oil change...

[Rye]

Originally posted by jesse_k
So how often do I change it if I had my first oil change done with the dealer oil and filter? I have put about 1500 miles on the bike since that oild change? I really want to thank you guys for all the help, I used to go on the BMW site for my car and I thought they were helpful but you guys are quick and explain everything, thank you very very much!

Jesse the clutch in your bike will like Gold Spectro just fine. Call me overly protective but I change oil and filter every 2-2.5k. I've found that it's ready to be dumped by then. It's a 7 year old bike and blow-by is increasing (and acids will accumulate faster). I've argued that it is possible to get more life out of the filter than 2k and just change the oil. I still believe this to be viable. But being a bit of a nazi with my bike, I swap it out at 2k also. It's worth the extra $7 to not have to program when the filter needs changing.

[JJ]

I have the same bike...Fram filters and Redline 10w40 kicks ass. Shifts smooth as silk and runs great. I have 34K on mine and never misses a beat.

[Nikon]

Originally posted by JJ
I have the same bike...Fram filters and Redline 10w40 kicks ass. Shifts smooth as silk and runs great. I have 34K on mine and never misses a beat.

I think you've got your answer right there......

[RandyO]

all the time I have heard bad things about Fram filters, years ago, they were known as one of the "better" filters. then it happened.
Asian product pirates started manufactueing fake oil filters. Large lots of these "fake" Fram oil filters hit department stores like K-Mart. might have never been discovered except some people like to disect an oil filter after an oil change to see what type of particles have been trapped in the filter medium.

Can you trust a Fram filter. sure as much as any other brand that might be fake... be careful where you buy filters.... your local NAPA store doesn't get it's stock in large lots from asian importing companies like K-Mart does

[Nikon]

Originally posted by Mystery Squid
Like Rye, I change my oil filter with every change, why the heck not for $7? I usually do the oil change at around 3K miles, give or take a couple hundred each way.

Agree totally. I change the filter every change. Worth the $6/7. 3k or so as well.

[JJ]

Originally posted by Mystery Squid
FWIW, from day 1, 0 miles on my '01 7R, I've used Spectra Gold semi-synth. I tried Spectra fully synth. for the first time about two months ago, and ended up going back to Spectra semi-synth, because it seemed to "like" the semi-synth better. I swear shifting was a little more "clunky" with the fully synth.

Like Rye, I change my oil filter with every change, why the heck not for $7? I usually do the oil change at around 3K miles, give or take a couple hundred each way.

It's not good to break a motor in on synthetic oil. It doesn't allow the rings to seat to the cylinder walls becuase the synthetics are so slippery (usually). Your best bet is to run the bike through the break in period on regular oil and then switch to synthetic. I would imagine the gears would have to do the same.

[OreoGaborio]

plannin on doin my oil change tomorrow since it's gonna be raining all friggin day

where can i get the Spectra Gold semi-synth? does Kirkers carry it? I'll probaly swing by & talk to em... see what they say (and hopfully i can trust whoever it is i talk to)

[Maui]

I am definitely babying my bike I guess. Just picked up a new 2003 SV1000S. my first oil and filter change was at 50. Yes... 5-0 miles. You should have seen the crap come out. Oil was nice and golden, and looked like it was fresh out of the bottle, until you saw it gathered in the pan and all the flakes and metal dust (probably from clutch as well). I will change again at 250, and then after the 600 mile service, probably every 1.5K - 2K miles.

May be way overboard, but I know the oild at 250 will be like the one at 50, clean, un-burnt, but a lot of filings and the like.

Well worth the $25 - $30 to save engine wear and that crap from floating around my engine for another 400 miles.

[Big SIssy]

I know this sounds dumb, but I never looked into it. Do the flakes and all the excess crap come out when the oil pours out when you are changing it? I have never owned a new machine, so I wouldn't know. How would you go about getting the particles out of the pan? I am definitely going to do what you are doing, it sounds like a great idea.

[oreo_n2]

i just did my shizzit on my bike tonight...

best ford and cycle(merrimack, nh) has golden spectro 4L bottles for $27.
best price i have seen on it so far, locally.
too bad they dont have kawi filters.

[Rye]

Originally posted by Big SIssy
I know this sounds dumb, but I never looked into it. Do the flakes and all the excess crap come out when the oil pours out when you are changing it? I have never owned a new machine, so I wouldn't know. How would you go about getting the particles out of the pan? I am definitely going to do what you are doing, it sounds like a great idea.

Strain the oil and you'll see. You will not see chunks but you will see small wiry type pieces and maybe flakes. New motors have crap in 'em that will amaze you. At least the couple that I have seen really suprised me.

[ssg]

This is why they say to do the oil changes when the vehicle/oil is still hot. You want to drain it while the particules are still suspended in the oil.

Many will remain when its cold, but heavies will end up finding their way to the lowest point and if it's not the drain plug then they get a free night at the inn.

Some folks (like me ) run magnetic drain plugs and/or magnetic band on the oil filter. You'd be suprised what you find even after break-in.

The filter should get most of it but some of it won't make it that far.

[Rye]

Magnetic is good...but doesn't do much for the aluminum bits found on most modern bikes!

[OreoGaborio]

BUUUMP

what about STP filters? anyone have any experience w/ those? it's all they gots at Autozone... as far as oil, all they had was Mobil 1, nothin M/C specific... i was hopin for some Golden Spectro, but i knew that was a long shot... no dice... and i think Autozone is the only place that's open today

[Honclfibr]

Originally posted by OreoGaborio
BUUUMP

what about STP filters? anyone have any experience w/ those? it's all they gots at Autozone... as far as oil, all they had was Mobil 1, nothin M/C specific... i was hopin for some Golden Spectro, but i knew that was a long shot... no dice... and i think Autozone is the only place that's open today

I use the motorcycle specific STP filters from autozone. I have used them since I got the bike. It still runs

I put another one on today. It's still running.

[OreoGaborio]

well then... i shall put one on today as well... and see if mine still runs...

and from what i saw in this thread, Mobil 1 will be just fine... no clutch slipping problems w/ my MASSIVE torque monster of a motorcycle