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I cleaned my calipers/pistons, put in fresh new pads, and put in new fluid with a lot of fluid bleeding.
I noticed near the bleeder there was some fluid, I assumed I spilled it during the work.
I can put a ton of pressure on the lever and I don't see anything at the master. I even tried lots of quick hard pulls and releases on the lever and don't see anything.
Then, when I push the little rubber protective cap onto the bleeder, right around the joint/threads between the bleeder and the master, I hear a little psssst and see some fluid pushed out. What does this mean?
Yes, I made sure all the bleeders were nice and tight in there.
By the way, this is a speedbleeder, I have them in all three locations. I replaced with those when I put on the stainless lines and new pads a while ago.
I have never quite been able to get as stiff of a lever pull as other people and I'm wondering if my master cylinder is fucked.
By the way, I have extremely limited spare time between now and thursday, I hope someone can tell me this isn't a problem or it's an easy fix![]()
Last edited by CEO; 04-19-09 at 12:07 AM.
Zip-Tie Alley Racing
LRRS/CCS #103
PPS | Dunlop | Boston Moto | Woodcraft & Armour Bodies | 35 Motorsports | Pit Bull | K&N
My stock master also feels a bit soft. Maybe its a yamaha thing.
The noise sounds like you might have a little fluid left over in the bleeder. When you push the rubber cap on the air between the cap and the bleeder builds up a little pressure and forces out some of the left over fluid.
I've never heard good things about speed bleeders. I would put the OEM bleeders back. I have nevre been able to get a good lever feel by bleeding with the master cylinder pressure alone. The problem is you are trying to push air bubbles to the bottom of the hydraulic system and the air bubbles, being much lighter than brake fluid, always rise to the top of the hydraulic system.
I bleed with a mity-vac, which seems to eliminate the air bubble nicely. If you don't have one, remove the calipers (leaving brake lines attached) and get someone to hold them up as high as possible while bleeding. Let gravity help rather than hinder.
But the fluid gets pushed out down near the junction between the master and the bleeder... i.e. by the threads. This doesn't seem right to me? The brakes work fine and seem to hold pressure just fine... but this irked me a bit.
Well I have speedbleeders on the calipers and on the master and I've always had good luck with them... do the master, do the calipers, do the master again. I think the sponginess is just the OEM master... and it's very slight.
My concern was more the little bit of fluid pissing out when I put on the rubber cap... just seems weird to me but everything seems to function fine![]()
Zip-Tie Alley Racing
LRRS/CCS #103
PPS | Dunlop | Boston Moto | Woodcraft & Armour Bodies | 35 Motorsports | Pit Bull | K&N
Putting the rubber cap on probably just forces some of the fluid back thats left in the doohickey. Being that it has nowhere to go from the pressure, it squeezes out through the threads. Going out that way probably isnt bad, if it was coming from your lines Id be worried.
(note, I dunno what a fucking speed bleeder is, but if its the way I think it is that might be what the problem is.)
Chris,
I had the EXACT same issue with my bike the first time I changed the brake fluid. It's normal. Check out my gixxer.com thread about it.
http://www.gixxer.com/forums/showthread.php?t=129316
Zip-Tie Alley Racing
LRRS/CCS #103
PPS | Dunlop | Boston Moto | Woodcraft & Armour Bodies | 35 Motorsports | Pit Bull | K&N
No problem man!