0


Hi All,
Picked up a bike at the end of the summer. [86 GPZ900R Ninja] Discovered the chain was pretty stretched, never adjusted, don't think it has been cleaned in a while, and the sprocket teeth are sharkfinned. But the adjustment marks showed it was still on the original setting, and I measured the chain wear and I'm JUST at the end of spec. Replace is at 323mm, and I'm at it. Not beyond.
Adjusted it, which didn't require much to take out the slack. Gave it a good coating of WD40 (in the hopes of 'cleaning it out'), then sprayed it down very liberally with plenty of wax. Rode a little, wax more, repeat a few more times. Yet I can still feel and hear a clanking/clunking/thumping, and it almost sounds like grinding when walking the bike backwards. It is a guarantee when going backwards, almost never forwards. I got it up on a stand, and found the wheel has some hard spots to spin by hand, but I'm not seeing any true chain sticking/binding.
So here's my theory: Adjusting the chain with so much wear, and assumed build up/dirt, resulted in an unusual mismatched wear pattern on the sprockets, and grinding in the links. I'm going to loosen it just a bit tonight to see if that stops the racket.
Here's my question (took me a while, right? :p) I know it all needs to be replaced promptly, but I'm wonder how much more life I can safely get out of it. We all know it's only getting colder so I'm hoping I can finish out the season. Am I getting signs that this thing needs to be replaced ASAP before it slingshots, or is this all signs of gross negligence that can be worked out with some patience?
Wirelessly posted (Mozilla/5.0 (iPhone; CPU iPhone OS 5_0 like Mac OS X) AppleWebKit/534.46 (KHTML, like Gecko) Version/5.1 Mobile/9A334 Safari/7534.48.3)
First off don't use wd40 on an o-ring chain, now it needs replacing for sure.
Corey
Well, I also tried to stretch the life of my chain this year. Wanna know what happened?
It de-railed, braking the sprocket cover ($110 part) and snapping the clutch pushrod ( a complete Pita to replace). These were costly, time-consuming and tedious repairs that could have been avoided had I just replaced my chain when I should have.
Get a new chain and sprockets ASAP!
Your chain is binding. As in, it's not rotating freely around the sprocket(s). It needs replacing, period...
Did you grit your teeth and try to look like Clint Fuckin' Eastwood?
Or did you lisp it all hangfisted like a fuckin' flower?
I would replace it.
~Scott
2020 SMC-R
About how many miles should a chain last if properly adjusted/ lubed regularly?
My ZX9 has 11,000 on it and is still on the stock chain/ sprocket...should I change it out?
all depends on how well you take care of it, usually i do mine once a season, i do about 12-15k miles a year though, this season i have really taken good care of it and stored the bike inside, it has 9k miles on it right now and looks brand new, i should get 2 seasons out of this one
It could be a lot of things... it could be so tight, it's binding... It could be worn, it could be that it doesn't mesh well with your shark fins in the opposite direction is has worn in to.
If with the chain properly adjusted, you can grab the chain at the rear-most point (@ 3:00 on the rear sprocket), and pull it off the sprocket more than a few millimeters, you're at risk.
I don't think WD ruins O-ring chains as posted, but chains are cheaper than damage cause by worn or breaking chains... Swap out your sprockets and chain!
I know not to use WD40 with the O-rings, but a quick spray down, followed by wax the same day isn;t going to make rubber magically disappear. It's ultimately getting replaced anyway, so non-issue.
I'll try the chain-pull off the sprocket, thanks for the tip.
Also, anyone have a favorite place, be it local to me, or online, to get sprockets and chains? I've noticed finding these sort of things (or any older model bike part) online isn't as easy as I thought it would be. I've found this site selling specific parts for my bike, http://www.gpzzone.co.uk/acatalog/Ch...Sprockets.html based out of the UK. But I'm betting I'd be paying a premium between exchange rates, shipping, etc.
Thanks for the tips guys.
nedirtriders.com
Yup, that's a loaded question. There's SO many factors and SO many variables. I've gotten almost 20K out of a chain & sprockets, I know some that'll be lucky to get half that...
I'm also of firm belief that chains & BOTH sprockets should all be changed together whether you think they do or not - whether you can see any visible wear otherwise or not...
Did you grit your teeth and try to look like Clint Fuckin' Eastwood?
Or did you lisp it all hangfisted like a fuckin' flower?
I had good luck and fast shipping from www.sprocketcenter.com
theres just something about a blue bike
Anecdotally - I got over 25k out of the OEM chain on the FZ1, using WD-40 as lube every tank (~200mi). Lots of the FZ1OA guys had the same experience.
I got 10k out of the next chain, which I neglected. oops.
Scientifically - WD-40 is mainly Kerosene which has no effect on the nitrile rubber o-rings used in motorcycle chains. It's pretty commonly recommended as a cleaner on chains. I can go all polymer science on it if you guys want (you don't).
I've since gone to using a Teflon based lube that's pretty popular; it lasts longer.
YMMV
Last edited by scottfromboston; 10-27-11 at 03:29 PM.
~Scott
2020 SMC-R
Find out what your link size and length is. Then figure out what brand you want, and buy what ever is sized right, and some some steel jt sprockets. I personally picked up a nice chain from a board member here for like 75 bucks shipped last season. It was for a gsxr 600 which is 2 links longer than mine. I just ground and popped the two links off and ended up saving about 50 bucks on the same chain "made for my bike".
And as far as waiting iagree with ewveryone else. If its binding for anyreason period its junk. Besides your planning on replacing it anyways so it doesn't matter wether you do it next season or now.
Last edited by DaveZX6r; 10-27-11 at 04:20 PM.
My Stock chain lasted 20K of avergage Joe ability street riding could have gone a little more because i took good care of it and kept it at the the correct adjustment. the stock ones are beefer than than what most people replace them with, i went for the lighter chain i think 520. i don't notice a difference?. most people change them early for the bling factor. i've hear the lighter ones don't wear as well. if i get 15k out of it i'll be happy.
Last edited by scubasteveRR; 10-27-11 at 04:26 PM.
My chain has about 10k on it and I've cleaned it twice.
Guess I ought to replace it![]()
Original
Bristol county where?
Cliff's Cycles KTM
NETRA enduro B-vet
Close your eyes, look deep in your soul, step outside yourself and let your mind go.
Not fairhaven :p I actually wanted to get a place out there. Really like the area. I went to school @ UMD.
Ended up in Swansea instead.
So last night I went out side and pulled on the chain. Without weight on the chain, on a stand, I can nearly expose the top of the teeth on the sprocket. If I put my foot on the chain as weight, I can still move it maybe 3mm. Not sure which way it should be tested, but either way seemed pretty bad. Worse, I decided to watch it spin at idle. HOLY SHIT! I couldn't even let the clutch out. It thrashed like crazy. Needless to say, I think every day it was driven since I took ownership was a lucky day. Thanks for the tips guys.
Last edited by aldend123; 10-28-11 at 10:13 AM.
nedirtriders.com
I've always used it to clean the chain - sprayed it on a rag, and wiped the chain down. I was told (and it makes sense to me) that soaking the chain in WD is bad not because it damages the seals, but rather because it seeps past them and breaks down any grease under the rollers.
Currently, I have 10k on my 520 conversion EK chain and its been adjusted twice over 10k. No hard spots. I haven't exactly been cleaning it every 500 miles either, but I give it a good cleaning, then use the chain lube on it. Should be good for next season too!
WD is cool on o-ring chains.
Proof.
It's cheaper to replace it in your garage than to replace it on the side of the road. And it's also cheaper to remove it from the sprockets than from the engine case. I say keep riding on it and put off the purchase.
It's all water under the bridge, and we do enter the next round-robin. Am I wrong?
I think you're mistakenly under the impression that I've been riding it around since the problem was discovered. Short of attempts to warm up the chain (10 miles max of soft driving) this thing has been collecting dust in the garage. I'll be placing some orders later this evening. But it is easier for me to drop it off the stand and hit the road this weekend. If it ain't broke, don't fix it, right?
nedirtriders.com