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The 35/400 setup (vs 40/360) is the suggested starting point for this bike 'cording to the crew over at TT. My pig rich reading was from running almost exclusively on the pilot and only drifting onto the main periodically to clean it out. Given the clutch issues and my lack of woods skills it was hard to really ride it for tuning purposes, but I'm working on that.
I've heard REALLY good things about the PWKs on these bikes, especially the 'Quad Vent Air Striker' variants, but I'm hoping the extra signal I'm getting by virtue of the bore increase and porting will help make the VM easier to dial in. (I've had excellent luck with them on my 4 strokes...)
Damn, just had my ass kicked HARD by the WR. Total time outside? Less than 15 minutes. Net result, I've soaked two layers of clothes with sweat, breathing so hard it hurts, and no strength at all.
And I didn't even fall down?!
Just finished playing with the clutch, new pull arm, push rod and then I shimmed the assembly to match my clutch. It looks like I got tripple teamed on this one. The pull arm was worn like I suspected, as was the push rod. Hell even the top hat has a dimple from the ball bearing... Add to that for a 92 the clutch hub, basket, springs and pack look mint? I suspect I've got a 93 or later clutch which has one more steel and friction than the 92, which accounts for the 1.35mm shim I had to add to my pushrod setup to dial it in.
So any ways, decided to test things out with a quick jaunt up and down my road. It's almost all down hill from my driveway, 2000' or so long? Dirt with a layer of hard packed snow, and a light sanding on top. My tires were absolutely USELESS on it. : ) Made it to the bottom of the road, turned around and could not get up the hill to save my life. Ended up throwing it in 1st and walking it up the hill, pushing most of the way as the rear just wouldn't bite on anything.
Clutch works better, still drags a bit but at least I can stop, hold it in and keep the bike running with minimal throttle input. Prior carb and plug cap work seemed to have helped too as I never really got past idle today and it never loaded up. When it did stall it usually fired right back up first kick, worst case was 4 kicks, so big gains there.
nice! at least you've made progress on the clutch
but time for winter studs for traction?
More like time for a trip to the Gym so I can toss this skirt I've grown fond of...
Yeah, goal was to stud up for the ice this year, but time/money are short so I'm going to focus on prepping to do Stimilon instead. At the moment that means I need:
tires
suspension rebuilt
chain and sprockets
Had a quick conv with Mr Kates, I need to decide if I'm having the bike setup for woods or track duty, there is no 'ok at a both' option... likely going to aim for woods and just accept that I'll never be a track superstar... not like I get much off the ground anyways.Hopefully I won't kill the suspension by running it at the track occasionally with a woods setup.
perfect! medical professionals always recommend exercise that's at least 30 mins/day for the majority days of the week...you just need to keep riding!
I'm going to get axed by the other experts here because everyone swears by their value, but I dunno about supporting your decision to get the suspension done...unless hey're rocked out, I might recommend leaving the suspension alone to keep the riding/spending ratio positive. Are WR's valved for woods?
(I'm also sure you've discussed with Mr. K the costs associated with the servicing the suspension, let alone re-valving for the woods or for MX)
The suspension is shot. The bushings in the forks are to the point that you can wiggle the lowers around in the uppers, and I don't think there is any fluid actually in there... If it's getting ripped apart for a full rebuild anyways, why not get them valved and sprung at the same time?
Just an fyi if your going to race at southwick you're gonna want stiffer springs. Not just for soaking up the whoops but it makes life a lot easier in general in the sand. Woods setup (from my limited knowledge, could be completely wrong) tends to be softer than MX, and usually I've been told to go a couple clicks stiffer on compression at the wick.
-Brian
15 S-Works Venge
'Race' is such a strong word. I think what I'll be doing is better described as 'frantic sight seeing tour'.
yeah, if they're shot and getting rebuilt anyways, than I'd change my vote
I just feel bad because the servicing and revalving might be as much as the initial purchase price of the bike!
would you consider dual bike duty? for $1,000 you can still buy fasteddie's woods-sprung YZ125, and keep the WR for MX (if it's already valved for it)
If you want to do MX, buy a cheap MX bike. Keep the WR for woods, Paul is right, it's a woods bike.
I converted my MX bike to woods, do OK with it, and still do good "enough" at the MX track. Suspension still is very soft, but when Paul borrowed it for Stimilton last year, he dialed in some compression and it helped. So you can do both with woods suspension. Can't do woods with MX suspension though. I learned that quite a few times on my 125 until I gave it to PK to do his magic on.
Woods, to me, is just more fun anyways. Plus it is free![]()
2021 KTM Duke 890 R
2020 BMW R1250GS Adventure Exclusive
1982 Honda CB750F Super Sport
I suspect my complete lack of skills for MX will let me get away a woods setup given I barely leave the ground. If I start REALLY digging MX207 this summer enough to pickup a membership I'll plan on finding a 2nd machine for the job too.
Edit: Addendum - I initially bought the bike primarily for playing on the ice to keep me occupied in the winter.
Last edited by Kurlon; 01-30-11 at 10:54 AM.
Just ask for a b-enduro re-valve for your bike and get the correct springs. I have found that 4 or 5 clicks of added compression damping at both ends and half a turn on the big HS nut is enough to ride on a mid size MX track. That's enough for 20 foot doubles and 30 foot table top jumps. You will give up some confidence in the whoops, but it's a fair trade.
It was also nice to have the woods suspension to blame when Seth lapped me several times at Crow Hill this fall.![]()
I ride woods with a MX setup, always have, always will. If i was racing enduro or scrambles it would matter but i dont, so it doesnt, its is awesome in the pits and make shift tracks around my place and fun in the woods as is. When i do race MX it is competitive, and that is where it NEEDS to work.
Pick where you are goung to actualy compete and set it up for that, the other is just for fun so it doesnt matter as much.. JMO.
Dunlop D756s for $65ea locally, used to like them on my mini, they a good all around tire for woods/mx/etc?
(And if I screw the bejesus out of them, will they survive having the screws yanked?)
ya just freshen the suspension, revalving it will be a waste of money.
just buy a cr500 for southwick you queer!![]()
LRRS #399
MX #505
haha, it would just vomit up the new springs.
LRRS #399
MX #505
NEVER ask someone that question, if I actually computed the tally on this or other projects I think the collapse of logic in my head would spawn a new black hole precipitously close to earth, aka where we keep all our stuff. Let's just leave it at "I'll be taking a loss when I finally go to sell it."![]()
I will be selling a really nice 04 yz250 in a week or two, soon as i replace the rings. R.E.P Motor, R.E.P suspension. The one i blew up at southwick this year. Interested? my dad wants to sell it and get somthing 4 stroke with an electric start after woods riding it a couple times.